gav- Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 my sills are shot whats the best size to use? and wall thickness? sorry just read the previous rockslider post. so 100x60/50 x 3 mm rect section? thats the best to use? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS26 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 my sills are shotwhats the best size to use? and wall thickness? I used 100x50 (x3mm wall) box, but would advise 100x60 since mine wasn't quite wide enough to take advantage of the bit of the inner sill that was remaining. I have seen 5mm (ish) wall used but IMHO the 3mm is SO much stronger than the original sill that unless you are building a monster, it would be plenty. If (like me) you are intending to weld all the way along, make sure you do it in shortish, well spaced runs and then fill in the gaps or there is a chance it will end up like a banana Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gav- Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 thanks for that rog, thats how i intended to weld them, did you cut the remaining inner and outer sill faces and just put the boxsection between them, or did you remove the whole sill and replace with the box section the reason i ask is its the flat bottom of the sill which is rusted through on mine and the side faces are ok condition. I intended to cut the bottom off and weld the box section inbetween the two remaining sill faces, double butting as it were. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 100x60 is what I used - 3mm wall. I cut the bottom out of the inner and outer sill - basically cutting the walls halfway up the vertical faces and pushing the box section up in between. The only issue I found was that the 60mm box was slightly too wide, to slide up inside the existing sill nicely, so I ran the grinder (with a normal thickness disc rather than a skinny one) along the top face, then clamped the box back together and welded it up. This gave enough of a taper on the sides of the box that it slid up into the existing sill really well. The sills are super strong now, way stronger than the original. Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS26 Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 thanks for that rog, thats how i intended to weld them, did you cut the remaining inner and outer sill faces and just put the boxsection between them, or did you remove the whole sill and replace with the box sectionthe reason i ask is its the flat bottom of the sill which is rusted through on mine and the side faces are ok condition. I intended to cut the bottom off and weld the box section inbetween the two remaining sill faces, double butting as it were. With mine I had to cut off all of the outer sill, but I managed to 'save' about 25mm at the top of the inner sill. This was good because I could then knock it over to where the (50mm) box was (since the box had to line up on the outside) and then weld it on. You may find (as I did) that although the sill sides don't look too bad, when you try poking then they may be very thin (in my case the trouble of trying to weld to the tissue-paper that was left was not worth the effort) so I just trashed the lot - it was much quicker that way. Heres a couple of pics: Hope this helps. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gav- Posted March 21, 2007 Author Share Posted March 21, 2007 rog, mark thanks for the reply, I have to say that your repair rog looks very tidy and alot improved over the original. I have poked the the chassis side of the sill and its structurally sound, except for some surface rust. I havent removed the outer plastic fascia panel to properly check the exterior sill. But i think i will cut to good metal on the inner sill and then weld as normal. I have attached a pic of my sill bottoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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