TD starter motor replacement

[white90]

To replace the starter on the TD engine, you need to remove the downpipe and turbo heat shield. It's also a lot easier to remove the washer bottle, as you have to lean over it to work. The pipes can be left attached, but the two plugs need disconnecting.

First of all, to increase the working room, undo the bonnet stay from the drivers side of the Radiator top mounting, then either raise the bonnet and tie it back, or lift it off the hinges and put it to one side, then disconnect the battery.

The starter is well-buried under the downpipe/turbo/manifolds.

Heat shield first - this isn't standard - there is normally a hex bolt and large washer here. The strip has been added to repair a split in the heat shield.

The top bolt is M6 (10mm head)

The heat shield has to be lifted a bit, then turned clockwise, and it'll come away.

The downpipe clamp is a special type - this is a 65mm exhaust D-clamp in it's place.

The proper clamp has a long 13mm bolt and nut, which is captive on the downpipe and will just drop down when you undo it.

From underneath, undo the 3 x 13mm downpipe nuts/bolts, hit the join with a hammer and it'll seperate.

There should also be a heat shield to protect the clutch slave, but this is missing.

There's also a 17mm bolt that goes into the block.

Twist/wiggle the downpipe and it'll eventually come away - recover the sealing ring and clean it of any exhaust sealing paste. Do the same with both ends of the downpipe.

You can now see at least some of the starter, and the wires that attach to it. The main wires are held to the starter by a 13mm nut, and the exciter wire is a blade connection.

The wires need to be kept out of the way, so feed them towards the bulkhead, take them out of the nearest clip on the top bell housing bolt and the wires can then be tucked up behind the head.

There are 3-fixings for the starter - 1 x M10 x 17mm head bolt, 1 x M10 17mm nut, and 1 x M10 17mm nut/bolt.

The starter comes out through the top, so get underneath and remove the lower nut first.

The nut and bolt next - you need to get a 17mm spanner on the nut and a socket on a medium extension bar for the bolt.

Finally the bolt nearest the block - you need a long extension bar to get along the back of the starter motor. Once the bolt is almost out, you can support it while the bolt is completely removed. The starter can then be removed - bendix end first, and turn it to get it out.

The new Valeo starter. Note that there's a metal frame on the end. This is for the earth connection if you have that type (if not - remove the frame (2 x 8mm nuts), but the earth may come off the chassis nearby and onto one of the starter bolts. Another variation is no earth cable at all - relying on the main earth from the battery to one of the PTO cover bolts.

Bolt the new starter on, then attach the wires - making sure they are not touching an earth point.

Put some Fire gum on the turbo downpipe, inside both ends of the downpipe, and both faces of the sealing ring. Fit the downpipe from underneath - making sure it fits as far as possible onto the turbo and so that the 17mm bolt lines up with it's hole in the engine block.

Attach the rest of the exhaust system - doing up the three 13mm nuts/bolts evenly to get a good seal. Finally tighten the turbo/downpipe clamp, replace the heatshield (making sure the clamp is positioned so it doesn't cut into it), and that should be it.

Les.