Bushings

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I was changing some oil yesterday and I noticed a crack in on of the front radius arm bushings. It's about 8mm deep. If I had to guess, I'd say it's time to replace the bushing. None of the others are cracked or damaged (that I can see).

I've never replaced a bushing before, so I have a WHOLE bunch of questions.

At what point should bushings normally be replaced?

Assuming I go with original equipment (not poly) bushings (as per suggestions in MANY threads), how hard is it to press out the existing bushings and press in the new? Will I need any tools? Do I need a multi-ton press?

I assume that if I'm replacing a bushing, it's in my best interest to replace the entire set. Correct?

If it matters, I'm running a 1986 Ex-MOD 110, 2.5L NAD.

Thanks!

[mmgemini]

This should help.Nicked from elsewhere. One of mine though

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Visit your local fastener place and buy a length of at least 1/2" diameter screwed rod,half a dozen nuts and half a dozen washers.

You require some washers that will fit over the metal center of the bush to allow the washers to sit on the outside of the bush.

The screwed rod should be hi-tensile rather then the ordinary stuff and UNC or Whitworth, a coarse thread please..

Visit your local scrappy and get some large thick washers. Ford shocker or suspension mine came off.

A vice makes the job a lot easier.

I'm assuming you already have the componet off the vehicle.

This is the most difficult bit. Removing the old bush.

Drill down the rubber between the two metal sleeves. Then with a hacksaw cut the outer sleeve nearly to the component.

With either a punch or small cold chisel fold the outer sleeve in so that the sleeve starts to collapse. Now drift the bush out.

Do not be tempted to fire the rubber.

Once the bush is out, clean the inside of the component with Emery tape or wet and dry. Now that the inside is nice and clean oil it. Not over much please.

Place the bush in the component.

A washer over the center sleeve. You might need more than one washer.

Now the threaded rod. Place two nuts on one end and tighten to each other.

A washer under the nuts the size of the screwed rod. Now one of the lage,thick Ford or other washer thet you aquired at the scrappy.

Fit the rod with washers inti the center of the bush making sure that the washer over the center sleeve hasn't moved.

Now repeat the proceedure with the washers at the other end of the bush.

Nut onto that end and tighten the nut.

As you tighten the nut the bush should pull into the component.

You might need to tap the end of the rod with a hammer to get it to enter, if you have to do that tap the end with the two nuts fitted please so you don't damage the end that the nut comes off.

Once the outer sleeve is in position remove the rod.

Simple isn't it.

HTH

[Guest otchie1]

At what point should bushings normally be replaced?

Replace when 'excessive' play is evident. Kinda vague if you're not used to feeling normal play but if they look perished and cracked then they are up for a change.

Assuming I go with original equipment (not poly) bushings (as per suggestions in MANY threads), how hard is it to press out the existing bushings and press in the new? Will I need any tools? Do I need a multi-ton press?

see below (or even above)

I assume that if I'm replacing a bushing, it's in my best interest to replace the entire set. Correct?

Mostly, yes although there are degrees of acceptibility...play and action should be within spec all round.

Without access to a press, the other school of thought uses fire.

Obviously with the thing off but I have done spring bushes in situ

Just wave a blow torch at it for about 10 minutes until all the rubber burns away. It'll make a mess so do it outside in a nest of bricks and don't breath the smoke. The inner bush sleeve will drop out with the rubber. Then fetch a quality hacksaw and cut a groove in the only remaining (outer) metal sleeve...don't worry overly about nicking the surrounding metal but it is important to cut all the way through the sleeve. Then smack it round and out with a suitable chisel and big hammer. If you are going polybush then clean up any burs or you'll destroy your new bushes in double quick time.

Refit requires a hydraulic press if you are using metalastic bushes....Without trying to pick an argument, I know many people say a vice will do or even lengths of stud and washers but a succession of workshop foremen have beaten into me the knowledge that metalastic bushes MUST be a press fit to avoid the thing moving in use. Obviously the multipart poly-bushes are modular...probably partly accounts for their popularity...certainly makes refitting possible without a press however they are unlikely to last as long.

Simply put, you should not be able to generate enough force with a screw thread/vice to refit proper one piece bushes. If you can then either the bushes are wrong, the part is worn, or you are a super-hero.

Whatever you do, never ever ever ever ever press a bush in using the central sleeve.

So there you go, two contradictory methods in successive posts.

YMMV

[mmgemini]

So for the past 50 odd years my training has been wrong. Doing bushes on a weekly basis.

I have only worked in one workshop where a press was available. That was the Ford main dealer workshop. Every other place we've used the screwed rod/Bushwacker tool. Not the Bushwacker but the screwed rod. Thay are both the same.

Yes the outer steel ring of the bush needs to be pushed not the center. That would be exactly the same on the press using the same large washer.

That's why I said a selection of washers. You need to pick the one you require to cover the center steel part.

Used correctly the screwed rod is effective and easily obtainable. I don't carry a 30 TONNE press in my car.

As for burning out the rubber. Those bushes give off dangerous gasses. Aslo you need to be aware not to exced the A3+40 for the metal.

Of couirse if you want to fit the bush dry, then you will need a 30TONNE press.

As a note.

In 1980 I was running a Hilman Imp as a rally car. The rear trailing arm bushes needed replacing. I took the arms to the Hillman dealer to have the bushes pressed out. One bent arm and bushes still in place. The screwed rod did the trick.

mike

Try was Lord Mayor of London. Can't died in the workhouse.

[Guest otchie1]

As a note.

In 1980 I was running a Hilman Imp as a rally car. The rear trailing arm bushes needed replacing. I took the arms to the Hillman dealer to have the bushes pressed out. One bent arm and bushes still in place. The screwed rod did the trick.

mike

Try was Lord Mayor of London. Can't died in the workhouse.

Small world. In the early 1990s one of my college lecturers was a design engineer who had worked on the Hillman Imp.

Like I said but with emphasis,

"Without trying to pick an argument, I know many people say a vice will do or even lengths of stud and washers but a succession of workshop foremen have beaten into me the knowledge that metalastic bushes MUST be a press fit to avoid the thing moving in use."

The thing isn't about what you use to fit it but about the amount of force that should be required for a good fit. A good old fashioned screw press would be big enough but somewhere up from finger-tight and down from friction-welded is right. If you can do that with a length of stud then great, I can't.

[mmgemini]

I know what you mean.

Som,e of the springs I've bushed have been heavy. Done in situ because of the size.

I've also "bushed" springs with brass [?] bushes and had to pack the spring eye with hacksaw blades because the customer wouldn't have the spring re-set....

I'll shew you one day how shall I

mike

Mirror, mirror

On the wall

Let them beg

Let them crawl.

[rosinante]

Hi I have replaced bushes in 90 and series with the stud method the only difference was ! used some home made mandrels to suit the bush and I used 14 mm stud which I had to order this fitted the holes in the series quite well and self centred the jig I also used the wooden handled persuader when the bush wsa under tension to ease it in in stages ie tighten the stud nut and the wack it in turns until its home,this also worked for the 90 as well, as for removal I have a pillar drill and chose a drill bit that cut all the way thruogh the rubeer and most of the way thru the metal as well,then collapsed the side wall with hammer and chisel and tapped out hope this helps and doesnt upset any one ,if you are near rainham in kent and you want to borrow the mandrels let me know

Chris

90 V8

[tpb]

A cracked bushing. I'm going out on a limb and saying that it needs to be replaced:

I'm also guessing that there shouldn't be a gap between rubber and steel like in this photo:

Thirdly, what mechanism is supposed to center the bush to the plate (if any)? The cracked bush above appears to be under great pressure at the front-side and reasonable slack on the rear. Was that just a botched install job?

Lastly, I found a set of tools for removing bushings here:

http://www.polybush.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwaka_Kits.html

But it appears to be just the same idea as mentioned above - ie: the screw rod idea. Those prices strike me as really expensive. Unless something similar is available at a quarter the price (or less) I think I'll end up with some threaded rod and washers.