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300Tdi Alarm


cress

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Hi all, I know, alarms again. Just had a remote 2 button refurbished by 'remote key'. Fantastic, followed the destructions to get it synchronized perfect, Got it on the drive to replace the rear hub seal, guess what! Now I cant get it off the drive because the alarm will not disarm. dont have the overide code. Any ideas on the next area to look at?

I am getting rather frustrated now as this has been going on for a week now.

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Ivan

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Ok, as no one has answered this post I take it no one knows. I have now sorted the problem so I will enlighten all. Just to re cap,,,,,

My key fob (2 button) decided it was not going to work one morning after camping in a field. Time to call RAC. The chap proceeded to clean out the key fob until a good pulse was achieved on his tester. This worked fine for about 6 times then, nothing again. I sent the fob off to Remote key .com for refurbishment. Again on return it worked for about 6 times then nothing. Ian the owner, asked me to return the fob.

Fortunately, Remote key is local to me and I was able to meet with Ian the owner with the fob and the ECU.

* The problem.... There is a chip in the Alarm ECU that is a timer and this clocks over everytime the remote is used, this timer was not clocking at all.

* The Cure...... Ian was able to disable this chip in about 10 seconds while the ecu was conected to his diagnostic pc.

He also disabled the automatic immobilisation funtion and gave me the Emegency overide code.

Conclusion.... There is a lot of mystique surrounding the Alarm ECU and the 'Spider' "the spider is nothing at all to do with the functions of the alarm, If your alarm is not working correctly it is not the dreaded spider.

This vehicle a 300 Tdi is a 97 model so 11 years old a lot of our vehicles are similar in age so keep this post in mind when your alarm plays up, this also applies to the P38 RR.

I cannot praise 'remote key' enough, fantastic job, only problem is getting hold of Ian as he is so busy.

Hope this is of some use to someone.

Ivan

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Excelent info cress as my disco is 11 yeard old

If you don't mind some questions..

U don't have the automatic immobliser function now, why.

Are there any implications now that u don't have the timer/delay in the alarm after it has been set.

Can the delay of the interior light cause a problem with the alarm now u don't have the delay as above.

Did u have to remove the alarm ecu from it's location behind the dash for Ian to work on it.

Thanks & regards

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Excelent info cress as my disco is 11 yeard old

If you don't mind some questions..

U don't have the automatic immobliser function now, why.

Are there any implications now that u don't have the timer/delay in the alarm after it has been set.

Can the delay of the interior light cause a problem with the alarm now u don't have the delay as above.

Did u have to remove the alarm ecu from it's location behind the dash for Ian to work on it.

Thanks & regards

Hi Teabag,

At present I tow a Caravan, its a pain in the A*se to get out to hitch/ unhitch then have to arm and disarm the alarm to start the motor.

There are no other implications, it just does'nt imobilise automatically after set time. Everything else is as standard. When I set the alarm, it arms itself as standard, this is not where the changes have taken place.

Yes I did remove the alarm ECU. I believe most diagnostic companies have to tap in to the vehicles diag connection, this guy can plug straight into the alarm ECU. Removal is quite straight forward although a little fiddly. Remove glovebox, remove cardboard finish cover from underfootwell, this alows access from top and bottom and you need it. I think it is a 8mm socket to undo the ECU nuts, bit difficult to get to the far one. Bad job we dont have 4 arms, but they would probably get in the way.

Hope this answers your question

By the way, when I say Ian is difficult to get hold of I should have said about the mail order part of the company. Send him your stuff and its usually back in less than 48 hours.

Ivan

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