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teabag

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teabag last won the day on August 9 2016

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About teabag

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    Kent, The Garden of England

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  1. Ok that interesting, in that case ‘brass shim washers’ might be available in the size u require, and being brass, if the size isn’t available then it’s not much trouble to alter another washer for a perfect fit. Out of interest pls let the Forum know how u get on 😊
  2. Washers and the circlips for the wiper linkage aren’t shown as a replacement part in the D1 genuine parts catalogue, hence no part numbers but there’s plenty of retailers on eBay that sell washers and clips.
  3. Circuits that are switch controlled are dead so no need to test them, but an iffy alternator with a faulty diode/ regulator will drain a battery overnight, diodes can be tested but the time it takes it’s just as easy fit a new pack.
  4. The disco has the later RR (classic) door furniture of their doors locks, locking, handles and concealed hinges, so find a D1 and have a look. unless u would like me to post a photo of the D1 hinges. My RR had exposed hinges on both the front doors.
  5. As the P38 has the same kit as my Disco1 u could try this test after locating ECU and unplugging the connector. The test is simple and I’d start with the vacuum pump test first, the bellows will collapse right back into it’s housing if the vacuum is good through out the hose system any right to the end of the hose which the brake pedal vac dump valve, and of course the clutch pedal valve if u have a manual gearbox. The speed sensor test may be useful, but I believe the voltage is pulsed, it’s something I didn’t bother to do based that my vehicles speed sensor was okay because the EFI system and speedo reading didn’t have any issues. All the previous tests had a positive result so I replaced the ECU and so returned back to a functioning Cruise Control.
  6. It can be found in the engine bay relay/fuse box which is I believed behind the battery. also there’s a lot of info on a P38 diesel failure to start, here’s a link to just one of the threads available https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/92971/5497/heater_plug_relay_bmw_diesel_p38_range_rover https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC3364
  7. A bit late but as no one else could be bothered. Have you checked the vacuum pipe, is the pipe work and pedal dump valve/valves 100 percent from the vacuum pump to the valve/ valves via the actuator ?
  8. Road springs for the D1 are obsolete. New genuine springs weren’t exactly soft, there’s a spring manufacturer call British Springs who produce springs to the exact vehicle manufacturers specification like Land Rover which is handy.
  9. It must have been the April copy of LRO. 😋
  10. Just move you working fob over the ignition switch and it will go way, but will return if you delay starting the engine. As mentioned unlocking will remobilise the engine, but delay starting and that symbol will appear. All the info is in the owners handbook.
  11. PCR6895 then. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Range-Rover-Classic-Ice-Detection-Washer-Jet-Thermostat-Prc6895/20008650586
  12. What is a ARM5965 ? It means nothing to Google or me 🙂
  13. Yes to your question. No MOT no tax unless MOT exempt. You can apply to stop paying for vehicle tax if your vehicle was built before 1 January 1979. You must tax your vehicle even if you do not have to pay, Its automatic. With the MOT exemption the vehicle has to be classified as Historic for that you have to apply to the DVLA, and certify the vehicle doesn’t meet the “modified” criteria and of course the vehicle was first registered 40+ years ago. Simples, I did both last year at the same time at my local Post Office for my classic car that was on a Sorn at the time so with out an MOTcert.
  14. The impeller has been known to break up, but very rare I believe and then only on aftermarket market items. A faulty viscous coupling for the fan will cause overheating. Coolant flowing the heater is a good indication that the pump is ok, also maybe u can look/feel inside after removing the bottom hose connection on the pump.
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