Mark Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 More disco distress I'm afraid. What is it about all this steel bodywork???? Anyway, The o/s inner wing on my disco is disintegrating in more places than I think is healthy. Does anyone do a repair section or do I have to fabricate somethinf myself? I have found repair sections for the other normal rusty bits (mine has them all with extra rust on top) ie Sills, and Rear floor, but cannot find inner wing sections. Are tey the same as Rangie ones? Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Are tey the same as Rangie ones?Cheers Mark Yep. Identical to Classic RR inner wing. There is a separate angle section which bolts along the top (the RR wing/bonnet profile is different to the Disco) I don't have the part no to hand - but it's a simple "L" section and can be easily fabricated. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 'L' profile repair strips are available from any panel supplier for around £7 for a metre length. If the corrosion extends below the battery tray, then it gets a bit awkward. The necessary panels to replace inner wing/battery tray (and in some cases) headlamp support panel, will set you back £180 or thereabouts. Got pics somewhere of a Rangy I had to do. I'll dig them up hopefully tomorrow. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 (edited) Les, Pictures would be great. I came to the conclusion that something needen to be done when I discovered there isn't actually any metal left between the light panel and the inner wing.... Sounds expensive though. Paddocks sell a RR inner wing repair section for £45 + vat. How did you get to £180??? What am I missing? Cheers Mark Edited January 8, 2006 by Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 If it were myself, Id be repairing the sections with individual plates. The panel is pretty much flat or straight-angles, (that sounds so wrong) but no curves, so sheet would be cheaper to buy, and easy to form. B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VERY OLD DISCO Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I made my own panels out of galvanised steel, a bit more difficult to weld, but should last. Take the wing off and have a look at the steel work behind the wing panel, be prepared for a shock. Get new plastic "rivets" for the plastic mud protector, they are a pig to re-use. My MOT man wasn't sure if they were a failure, but suggested I do them anyway. If you go to your local heating duct manufacturer they will have a skip full of off cuts of galvanized steel. Slip the guy who is standing nearest the roller shutter door a fiver and he will let you go into the skip and recycle all those offcuts. Then he will do the bends for you on the bending machine. Well, he did for me anyway, it pays to be old and wearing dirty jeans with holes in sometimes. Steptoe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 Well it seems I have mislaid a few pictures. nearest I have on file is a Range Rover and then not all of them. The drivers side inner wing was ok, but the other was badly rotted. passenger footwell, and both rear arches - to the extent that even the seat belt mounting strengthening plate had rotted through. The owner didn't know the footwell was rotten until I showed him. The inner wing was rusted and holed right from the bulkhead to the battery tray (if it was RHD) Last one showing the body repair to the arch. The plates on this vehicle were both around 9-inches by 6. The hole for the seat belt bolt had to be drilled, a new nut welded to a 3mm thick plate, and then welded to the underside. No more pictures, I definitely had them. The washer bottle is very awkward to remove - the stupid nuts thar are gripped in the plastic take virtually no effort at all to spin, and you need to get at the head of the bolts from inside the wheel arch. The price I would have got would have been for new panels to repair the disco - inner wing,battery tray, and headlamp rear panel. If I remember, it took 2-days to do this job. It was almost not worth it. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 Of course, if you're just after some pics of a rusty Disco, then I'm yer man! This is the rustiest Land Rover that I have ever seen that was still being driven on the road! Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 Hmmmm all looks far too familiar... cheers for the pix les. Not sure what I have let myself in for here. Trying to sort some kind of accomadation to do the work at the moment.... Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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