M&S Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hi all, I let the back door swing open yesterday whilst parked on a slope I watched the lower rear door hing fold as it swung open so know I'll be needing a new one To get the door to shut again whilst out I slackened the hinge bolts. This got us home ok with the door latched but not shut properly. Anyway, just thought I'd ask for any tips before I go about removing the door - mostly to do with re-aligning it (I know, I should have marked around the original hinge but it's a bit late now). Also, are there any heavy duty hinges available, or is it just the genuine/all makes ones? From what I can tell the D1 & D2 hinges are the same. Just wanting to save any nasty surprises before I start what should be a simple enough job...and share my stupidity with you Don't let the rear door swing open! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First_Fleet Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Did the restraint bugger up as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 D1 and D2 hinges are a bit different but they can be fitted in place of each other. The D1 version is not in production anymore, you're supposed to use the D2 version which is a bit better than the earlier one. The current part# (for both D1 and D2) is BHB700051. I never heard of another HD version. The surprises: - the hinge comes unpainted - you'll need to sort that as well - the bottom hinge has a pop rivet, LR calls it a "monobolt", part# AFU1350 - it's bigger than the biggest usual pop rivets (4.8 mm) - you'll need a proper pop rivet gun for it; you can replace it with a bolt and nut if you drill a bigger hole from the inside in the door structure (with a looooong drill bit); some people used self tapping screws and others didn't bother to put anything in place. Don't worry about markings for realigning. There will be marks on the paint from the old hinge but you might need to find a better alignment position anyway. You don't necessarily need to completely remove the door from the frame. Either with someone to help or the door supported from underneath you can replace the bottom hinge with the top one in place (remove the spare wheel and don't pick up a windy day if you're going to do the work outside). If you want to take the door off you'll need to disconnect all the electrical wires from inside the door and then you'll have another surprise: you won't be able to reach one connector from the rear wiper motor without releasing the wiper mechanism (I cut the wires and fitted an extra connector in a more convenient place). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted March 16, 2009 Author Share Posted March 16, 2009 Brilliant, thank you very much for the great description. Job done! I couldn't believe that it was riveted but it was. They looked like they were threaded and bolted from the inside, but a quick rip over with the grinder sorted them out I've tapped out the holes 8mm and put dome headed screws through. Think that should be ok. If not I'll pop in to the sheet metal workers and ask them to put a couple of rivets in. I used the Hi-lift and Stephanie to prop the door whilst I removed the bracket and with the application of heat and a hammer I've straightened the hinge back up. Refitetd as per the paint marks (even down to the washers been in the same place) and the door closes! You need to slam it a bit but then we always did. Thanks again, Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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