specwarop Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 Gday, Just curious with this one. But I was reading that with one of the strength modification kits for the LT230 they don't use the collapsible spacer and the needle roller bearing, instead they use a preloaded tapered roller bearing which not only means no pre-load adjustment but that its also 3 times stronger. Is this a possible modification just on its own? If so how would you work ut what tapered roller bearing you would require, etc.? Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 There are two flavours of LT230 - one type has needle roller bearings on a straight shaft, one has taper roller bearings that are separated by a crush tube. To run taper roller bearings with no crush tube I'd imagine you'd have to use shims to set it up. I wasn't aware that either box was particularly weak in that area, they will take 400hp+ without modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specwarop Posted August 3, 2009 Author Share Posted August 3, 2009 I was also hoping to do put the bearing in opposed to the collapsible spacer - because it seems so much easier and less hassle trying to adjust load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harbspan Posted August 3, 2009 Share Posted August 3, 2009 The LT230T has the taper bearings and the collapsible tube. However LR now recommend replacing the collapsible tube with a non-collapsible one and i think there are 40 different lengths and the correct length selected by using a set up tool from LR. The gear and the bearings are set up on this tool and a measurement taken and a formula using the bearing thicknesses determines the right length tube to use to give the correct pre-load. I need to do this myself as I am rebuilding my box currently. As I don't have the tool and no one can tell me the critical dimension of the post on the tool to make the calculation... this what I am going to do!!! Assemble the box with a new crush tube and set to pre-load. Remove crush tube and measure length. Obtain non-crush tube that length (will actually have longest length one on hand and machine down in lathe). Reassemble and test pre-load. May need to remove again and just lap slightly on stone and refit and try again until correct. I think the reason LR no longer recommend the crush tube is that over time and tension the crush tube must give very slightly and the bearings lose their pre-load and thus wear into the shaft, as has happened in my case. Hope this helps. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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