Jaxwantsone Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 This is driving me mad! Local lad in the village changed the clutch on his 53 plate freelander TD4. Engine cranks but doesn't fire up. As the area Land Rover mechanic (!!) I ended up with the job. I have recoded the handset/key, checked aroung the gearbox & IRD for trapped wiring etc, and checked the operation of the fuel burning heater - which is fine. My thoughts were that the temp sensor was nacked so bought a new one and fitted it - no change. As soon as the key is operated the fans kick in and the temp guage maxes out. Is there another temp sensor anywhere? I can get the fans to go off by rapid operation of the ignition key 4 or 5 times. Don't really want to try easi-start as its unkind to engines. Where next? Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated guys, I'm ready to torch this one! PS The guy removed the battery and box for about a week, while changing clutch. ECU reset maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rustymark Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Hi - I changed clutch on my 2001 td4 a while back but (thankfully) didn't have the non starting issues. The clutch is not an easy one to do as its remove front sub frame, prop shaft, gear linkages, IRD and then finally gearbox. The IRD is cooled with engine coolant. He shouldn't really have disturbed any wiring or fuel lines but there is a large earth lead front nearside that needs to be removed and refitted - has this been put back? Are the fuel pumps running? One in tank, one on nearside bulkhead? Have you tried bleeding the fuel line? It does sound like fuel starvation if its turning over - or a sensor has packed up. An OBDII code reader would be handy - any will read engine fault codes only and might give you a clue if he has done some other 'damage' whilst dismantling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Check for fault codes if poss. (needs a manufacturer specific type for pre 2004 diesels) Disconnect maf sensor Listen for the in tank pump Tap the underbonnet pump Measure the voltage on the yellow/blue wire at the fuel filter pressure sensor - should be around 4v at all times. Spray Easy Start in the air intake Remove clean refit cam sensor Check for injector leakback Poor starting can be caused by bad/corroded connections at the rail pressure sensor and ecu terminals. Requires new harness no YMQ503320, SENSOR STC4768, O RING MYX000040. The harness replaces the existing wiring between ecu and sensor. CAMSHAFT SENSOR. (quite common) This is used only during cranking to synchronise the timing by indicating when no1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. So if it is faulty, starting becomes difficult and may vary depending upon the temperature of the engine. Once running, as the sensor is no longer used, the car will run normally. This is one way to distinguish between camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor failure CRANKSHAFT SENSOR This does not fail as often as the camshaft sensor and if starting is bad, eliminate this as the cause before changing the crank sensor. LOCATION: Just above the right hand end of the starter motor FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR DIRTY. Location - under the intake duct Unscrew the sensor and clean it being careful not to let dirt enter the orifice.Also clean the contacts with switch cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxwantsone Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Hi; Have checked all earth leads including the big one (from battery neg to gearbox casing) on the nearside, all clean and tight. My thinking is sensor input or ECU, as temp guage is full scale and fans running constantly - ECU obviously thinks engine is stinky hot so no cold start facility, which means the bloody thing will never fire in this weather. Havent checked fuel rail/pumps/heaterplugs as I figure the problem is temp guage related (but may check later on today if desperate enough lol). My main concern is have I missed a sensor out, or has the ECU defaulted/reset etc, is there a reset procedure I dont know about. I have checked for trapped/pinched wires and all looks ok, unless there is something between the IRD/bulkhead, which is very tight and cannot easily be seen. Don't really want to have to drop the box etc just to check for wires....Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxwantsone Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 By the way, don't have a fault code reader, but the way this one is going I may need to invest in one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fozsug Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Check crankshaft and camshaft sensors are actually pluged in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxwantsone Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Hi; have already checked, both are plugged in. I am about to remove the plugs and clean the connections on both. While I'm at it I'll do the fuel pressure sensor on the rail. May disconnect the fans so I can listen for fuel pumps etc, but I doubt this is the problem as a problem with these shouldnt bring the fans on or max the temp guage??? I'll post back on here with the results either way. Cheers guys, wish me luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxwantsone Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Hi; have cleaned all multiplugs (fuel rail sensor, crank sensor, camshaft sensor) and disconnected the fans. Both fuel pumps are running. Reconnected fans, still on constantly and temp guage still at max. Has to be a sensor or trapped wire?? Do I now start replacing sensors one by one? Checked yet again for trapped wires etc - nothing, all sensors on view have correct, clean plugs attached (including reverse switch etc on G/box). What have I missed? Should I torch it and say there's been a terrible accident lol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marty1a Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Is the crankshaft sendor cracked??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxwantsone Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Hi; the crank sensor is visually fine, gives a continuous reading with a multimeter and has been cleaned and refitted, as has the cam sensor. There is fuel at the rail and the rail sensor has been cleaned along with its jack plug and refitted. Does anybody know the correct pressure range on the rail for this engine? The fans are still permanently on and the guage is still at max temp. Both fuel pumps are running. Have sprayed easi-start into intake and the engine fires and runs for several seconds - definitely fuelling problem. Visual inspection of the fuel pressure at rail seems low (with sensor out and pumps running). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxwantsone Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Finally sorted - turns out it was an ECM problem with a broken pin connector on the block itself. Once the new ECM was fitted and handset/key coded etc it fired up first time. The ECM was basically not operating the pressure switch at the back of the injector pump and bringing the fans on as a default safety measure. As with all computers, rubbish in, rubbish out. Oh well, it's got all new sensors now! The next freelander that arrives at my workshop with electrical problems will be ceremonially burned!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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