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About rustymark

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  1. Hi. From ages ago when I did mine it’s listed as a 7.5 hour job with land rover. Managed mine in 8 so not that bad. It’s a lot of work tho mainly in actually getting to the clutch.
  2. rustymark


    From memory and it's been quite a while. front subframe removal i r d (transfer box) removed. Be careful it's water cooled and the pipes are not visible on the top of it. Gearbox out swear lots the landrover time allowance used to be 8 hours for a clutch swap!
  3. A p driveline and Borg and beck are indeed one and same. Td4 must be different as no way could you leave ird loose it had to come off. Joy.
  4. Hi and welcome! Td4 clutch is def slipping and worn out as you having the same symptoms I did. You are correct in the parts needed being replacement clutch kit and slave cylinder. Job is quoted at lr as being 8 hours. I did mine in 8.5 but it's a big job. You are better off ringing around and getting some prices as a ramp is next to essential for ease of access. If you having a go yourself then you will also need oil for Ird as it has to be drained. Oil mtf 94 full synthetic for gearbox top up anti freeze mix as Ird is water cooled brake cleaner to wash old dust and muck from clutch housing some good spanners and Torx sockets. Job is jack up and support remove front roadwheels. Remove drive shaft retaining nuts and discard. New ones needed on refit. Remove front sub frame. Remove front prop shaft. Remove gear change linkage. Drain oils. Drain cooling system. Remove driveshaft from Ird unit. Remove Ird with assistance it's heavy. Remove gearbox. Undo hex bolts securing clutch release plate. Swear a lot as they round out. Hammer socket over and undo. Replace with new hex bolts! Remove old clutch plate etc and examine dual mass flywheel. If you are lucky then it's serviceable but if scored replace at around another 300 quid. Refit new clutch and align using appropriate tool. Refit gear box after changing slave cylinder. Swear some more. Refit Ird etc etc and job done easy eh
  5. hi.... can't advise on LR auto fluid but yes it normally is red. However are you sure its the auto box? power steering racks are prone to leak and also brake fluid. i've just got replacement PS fluid which is clear so you just never can tell!!!!
  6. Hi - I changed clutch on my 2001 td4 a while back but (thankfully) didn't have the non starting issues. The clutch is not an easy one to do as its remove front sub frame, prop shaft, gear linkages, IRD and then finally gearbox. The IRD is cooled with engine coolant. He shouldn't really have disturbed any wiring or fuel lines but there is a large earth lead front nearside that needs to be removed and refitted - has this been put back? Are the fuel pumps running? One in tank, one on nearside bulkhead? Have you tried bleeding the fuel line? It does sound like fuel starvation if its turning over - or a sensor has packed up. An OBDII code reader would be handy - any will read engine fault codes only and might give you a clue if he has done some other 'damage' whilst dismantling.
  7. only had a prob once after returning to manchester airport to find car frozen up. couldn't open rear door as window wouldn't drop. not had a problem since as learnt the lesson of smearing a thin film of silicon grease around the seals.
  8. P1470 is butterfly valve open. Google comes up with VIS valve whatever this is - no idea past this as its a new one on me but at least a start!
  9. Hi I know this sounds stupid but you were topping up the clutch hydraulic res thats on the bulkhead and not the brake fluid res as described in the haynes manual which is wrong on this. if you didn't then you have maybe pulled more air into the clutch system. the td4 is a pain in the proverbial to bleed. i found after changing my clutch you bleed, bleed and bleed again. eventually you get there and the bite should move to mid pedal position. a bite at the bottom as you describe is airlocked. either that or the slave cylinder is leaking inside the bell housing. sorry if i'm suggesting the obvoius but its always worth a check....
  10. i'm still here and since i fitted mine have not looked back! a quick wash out at service time with brake cleaner and its sorted!
  11. You've a challenge there then! Had the three friends on the dash a few times now and each time on my td4 its been the same cause - a worn out ABS sensor - which are (a) expensive and (b) a complete &^^^% to get out - on mine anyway! I tested each one by unplugging the leads - rear is above the rear wheels under the liner in wheel arch - follow the cable and pull apart. Fronts are in the engine bay. Put a multimeter measuring resistance on to the exposed prongs. No resistance = shot sensor. Another cause. Faulty brake pedal switch - yes brake lights work ok but it has a dual purpose. Another cause - HDC wire on gear stick disconnected. Work through logically - if you find the fault the system resets when you drive. Any more info search the 3 amigoes or message me and i'll try and help!
  12. P codes are manufacturer specific. I googled this and found that P1612 could be a leaking return fuel line - did you change any filters recently?
  13. Hi I've looked into this one evening when i was bored! If you lived in the good old USA you could buy a silicone fluid specifically for VCU from the manufacturer Dow Corning. However I can't find any mention of this product on Dow's UK product pages!
  14. Make sure the driveshaft end nut is not also holding the disc in place....... i can't remember without looking on RAVE if this is the case! if not you could also use a large bearing / hub puller to shift it.
  15. Wow Been a couple of years (nearly) since i started this thread. never thought 10500 hits would be possible - thats a lot of TD4 owners! how has everyones TD4 been since changing? Mines still behaving itself and doing as it should. Mark
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