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Oil and Filter change


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Part of the basic and full service of the engine is replacement of the oil and it's filter. Some people think that changing the filter for every second oil change is ok, but as a filter is just a fiver, I don't think it's a risk worth taking. There's a whole variety of oils out there - from re-cycled stuff, to mega-expensive performance oils. I would never recommend using re-cycled or 'supermarket' oils unless you adjust the change intervals to suit the carp that you have just put in your sump. Rubbish oil may be a fiver a gallon, but the cost of engine repairs kind-of negates the saving you thought you were making. Good quality oils are around £15 per gallon, plus a fiver or thereabouts for a good quality filter - you are looking at around £20 to do a decent job. Most L/R engine sumps hold in excess of a gallon - 8-litres. Just buy 2 x 4.5 litre containers - it starts to get expensive when you start to buy odd 1-litre bottles. The oil filter looks easy to get at, but fuel pipes and wires above it make it fiddly, and the front prop is in the way underneath.

A 1-gallon oil container with the side removed is the ideal size to fit in the gap under the filter. It balances on the front prop and catches the filter as it drops. Note that the container is balanced - it'll topple and fall sideways if you don't support it. The filter is usually very tight, so use a chain or strap wrench to loosten the filter, then place the container under it.


Nicely caught!!


While you are waiting for the drips to stop, put a film of grease or oil on the seal on the new filter - this will stop it bunching up and leaking when you screw it on.


Screw the new filter on quite tight by hand.


Drain the oil next - if the right amount of oil is in the sump in the first place, then you need to split the sump draining into two parts, or have a container that holds at least 8 - litres.

Vehicle needs to be on level ground, or preferably with the passenger side slightly higher.

Sump drain bolt is 17mm on this, but there are variations.


Remove the bolt and allow the sump to drain down. If you can leave it to drain for any length of time - then the better. You never will get all the oil out of the engine, but as much as possible is good.

Once the oil is drained, check the condition of the copper washer that acts as a seal. If it's distorted, then replace it. The sump bolt shouldn't be exceedingly tight, if it is, then it's probable that the copper washer will have to be replaced as the bolt will now leak - 'quite tight' with a spanner or socket is fine.

Remove the dipstick - there are two marks .When changing the filter as well, fill the sump until the high mark is achieved. Never fill above the high mark - too much oil can wreck an engine.


The oil filler is usually on the rocker cover, as in the next picture, but on some early series and military engines, there's a filler at the side of the block as well as on th erocker cover.


On disco 200 and 300 engines, the oil filler has to be turned before it will lift off, 2.5 N/A and TD engines it just yanks straight out - a ribbed rubber coller retains the filler, as in this picture.


Series vehicles have a 7/16" bolt through the area indicated in this next picture.


Wrap a rag around the neck of the filler in order to catch any spillage.


Pour a complete container of oil in, then add amounts equal to only 1/2 litre at a time until the high mark on the dpstick is achieved.


At this point the oil filter is still empty - the level will drop a small amount once the engine has been run. There's little point in continually topping the oil to the high mark all the time. As long as the level is betwwen the two, then that's fine. Once filled, start the engine and allow it tickover. The oil warning light will stay on for a few seconds longer than normal, but should go out reasonably quickly. Check for leaks - in particluar around the oil filter and sump bolt.

Les. :)

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