danebrewer Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 (edited) Hi folks, I just throught I’d show you guys how I took my “new” 2007 vintage doors apart to change the locks and to go for a respray….. I mainly did this for myself, but seeing as I already wrote the instructions as I was doing it, I though it wouldn’t be too much of a stretch to type it up and stick it on here! This all works easiest with the door off and on the floor… It’s also the order I did it in, some of the steps may be swapped around as it might work better, but this method worked ok for me. First of all you need to remove the door furniture, the window winder handle is held on with a circlip (sorry about not having a pic) but if you bend it up and look at it from the side you can see a bit of wire. The way I found to take it off is to get a couple of teeny screwdrivers, the kind you use for doing up screws on glasses, and slide one down each side (use flat ones as there’s a better chance you’ll catch the circlip and not have it slip off) of the winder handle from the handle end, and away from the knob. It’ll take a few goes, but you want to dislodge the circlip from the spindle it’s on, it won’t ping anywhere, and you should notice the handle lift a bit, here is where it will be easy to wiggle off. Next remove the door handle, same as all the other post series 3 vehicles with a screw under each of the pop off covers at each end of the handle. Now remove the door latch bezel opposite to the lock side, it secures by a single screw under the lift up handle. The door locking button bezel is a but more tricky… with the window down (in the door) sit so you are looking from the top of the door, you need a broad screwdriver to fit behind the bezel on the flat (largest surface to the inside) of the door, and another smaller thin screwdriver just to lever the bezel up a smidge, now, being careful that it does ot slip off, pul with the broad screwdriver from behind the bezel towards you (don’t lever it as you might break it) it’s pretty tight on there, in a few goes, it should slip off and reveal the locking button naked! Next, find the securing points for the door panel and prise it off with a large bladed screwdriver so as to not damage the panel. You’ll soo a foam weather sheet next, again carefully peel this off, it’s secured with some sticky gunky non curing stuff so be careful not to get it on the carpet! If you tear it it’s not the end of the world as I’m sure you can get another from LR…. Not sure what you’d stick it on with though any ideas? Now you’re to the nuts and bolts! (and the pictures) OOOOOK! So you should see something that looks like this: DSC_0394 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Now remove the bolts around the outside of the black panel, I’ve started doing this here and put them to one side. An ice cream tub is good. Disconnect link rod B from the remote control lever (B) from the latch mechanism near the number 1 in the photo below DSC_0406 by danebrewer12, on Flickr The green clip can just be unclipped with your fingers and swung away to the side. The link rod will now just drop out. DSC_0408 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Remove the bolts securing the wintor regulator to the black panel in the centre of the panel. They’re the same as the other panel bolts so don’t worry about getting them mixed up. Lift off the panel and the window regulator will be revealed. The next bit all works best with the window in the up position so do this ideally before you remove the panel. DSC_0410 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Now remove the two bolts securing the window regulator to the bottom of the window and remove the regulator and set it to one sideon some cardboard as it’ll be greasy. DSC_0412 by danebrewer12, on Flickr If you want to respray then remove the door locking button screws and then remove the button from it’s link rod DSC_0413 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC_0414 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Now you’ll need to disconnect the link rods from the door handle arrowed here: not necessarily! only if you want to remove the door handle do you have to do this. otherwise you can just pop off the circlip shown in the next steps and remove part (6) and the lock barrel will slide right out. I've obviously done it so I can have the door sprayed properly but if you're only changing the locks this won't be necessary... DSC_0418 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC_0417 by danebrewer12, on Flickr They are a bit tricky to get off you can use your fingers but it’s pretty painful, either a pair of pliers or a screwdriver will work here (or a combination of the two) I had a pair of old pliers which had a bolt securing the two halves, with one half of the jaws on the rod and the other on the clip I could pop it off. Be careful as these will ping off. Make sure you know where they went! For safe keeping just push them back on the ends of the rods they came off of. DSC_0419 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Remove the 2 torx bolts along with the washers holding the door handle on You can now rotate the door handle out and upwards to get it out of the slot it was in. DSC_0421 by danebrewer12, on Flickr Screw the torx bolts back in to the handle for safe keeping and remove the circlip holding the lock barrel and the die cast actuator arm thing (6) in place. DSC_0422 by danebrewer12, on Flickr The lock will now slide out! DSC_0423 by danebrewer12, on Flickr As with other doors, the lock barrel is secured to the door via this connecting tube it’s held in by a spring loaded pin in the lock barrel. Depress this and the lock and connecting tube will come apart. DSC_0424 by danebrewer12, on Flickr DSC_0425 by danebrewer12, on Flickr To reassemble… just go backwards! I’ll probably end up taking a couple of other things off like some of the seals and rubber strips when I send it off for painting, but that’s good enough for replacing the lock barrel. It might not be necessary to remove the door locking button, but as I’m respraying, I took it off anyway. Hope this helps! Oh and another thing, remember to get suited locks as the new defender keys are massive for some reason and you don’t really want 3 of those knocking around on your keyring, so eventually I’ll have 2 new door keys (big ones) an ignition key (old style) and a rear door key!... I think I’ll need some way of knowing which is which in the dark! Anyways, I hope this helps someone. Edited July 5, 2011 by danebrewer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrtod Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Nice guide there Dan I hope to get a set of those doors myself (at some point in the distant future - or if my lotto numbers come up) so I will bookmark this page:) Don't mean to be rude but were they expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danebrewer Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 in short? Yes....... Very. about £490 or so each I recall, might be a smidge less.... I think I'll be waxoyling the insides then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Good write up, nice one ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.