Mo Murphy

... and a top hat. Mo 😊

Shorty, basically your relay switches a connection from battery to your new auxiliary fuse box. The relay is in turn switched by one ignition switched live. Apologies if I'm teaching my grandmother to stuck eggs. You turn the ignition on, that closes the relay, power flows to the fuse box. Turn the ignition off, the relay opens, and power to the auxiliary fuse box stops, hence ignition switched. The beauty of it is that you only use one ignition switched live wire to run EVERYTHING that you want and you'll only draw enough current from that ignition sourced supply to keep the relay closed (milliamps). The power for your accessories goes via another terminal on the relay straight from battery to auxiliary fuse box. No strain then on the existing harness and fuses. Normally you would source the ignition switched live from a spare slot on your vehicles fuse box or from an unused slot in a connector. I'm not familiar with new Defenders fuse board layouts but I'm sure someone with more knowledge can point you in the right direction. All much safer than piggybacking off existing circuits. Fuse boxes come in all shapes and sizes. I used this one as it has one supply for each bank of fuses. I use one side for an ignition switched supply to power an extra fan, the cb (I kept leaving it on and flattening the battery 😉) etc. And the other side as a permanent live for things like power sockets and usb sockets. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192217279549 I also run all my supplies with twin core wire of the appropriate size and take the earth back to the earth busbar on the fuse box. As this is connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery I get the best earth. HTH Mo

TBH shorty, I wouldn't be looking at running anything from the standard wiring except a relay, which will only take milliamps. If you want additional power supplies for accessories then do it properly and put a small fuse box and an ignition switched relay in your battery box and run the stuff you want from that. It's really simple and easy to do and a whole lot safer than piggy backing off other circuits. HTH Mo

I'd not be keen to disparage the neighbour from whom you bought the Land Rover but he seems to have imagined that he recently changed the gearbox oils. Mo

Mav, the diff studs will just knock out with a hammer if you put a nut on first and then refit the long ones from the old casing with a distance piece and a nut to draw them through. HTH Mo

Oooo shinys ? Mo

Replacement head fitted, all hunky dory now ? Noticed while putting the old head away that it's actually also cracked between the valves on no. 1 cylinder too. Mo

That's a proper DOH ! ? Glad you found it. Mo

Welcome back Bishers old boy ? Mo

Stephen old chap, If you leave your lights on for long enough they will flatten any battery. Charging a phone or ipad overnight will not flatten your starter battery. If it does then you need a new battery. If you are really worried, the best way to avoid compromising your starting ability is to leave home with the phone fully charged and should it require charging then do so whilst the engine is running. HTH Mo

... perhaps finish the 90 first, eh Ross ? Mo ?

John, Most people paint their roof white or limestone, I imagine the carpet was pretty impractical especially when it rained ? Mo ?

Indeed Snagger, but with the cost of head reworking I'm not sure it would be financially viable even given the fact that new replacements are NLA and you'd still have a head that had been welded up. Mo

The rest of it was fine monkie, just this one crack ? Mo

I've got my spare there now Pat, having pressure test, skim and the valve guides sleeved. Barry didn't recommend it's reuse. Mo