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Mo Murphy

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Everything posted by Mo Murphy

  1. 200 Tdi Timing Belt Oddness

    Afternoon all, I'm stripping the timing case off the engine to change the crank seal. Having removed the cover I can see that the timing belt had moved forward on the gears and has touched the cover. Its lost about a quarter of its width. Now there is a little history on this problem. When I built the 90 up about 5 or 6 years ago, I changed the engine from Range Rover spec to defender spec using the timing case and manifolds from a scrap donor. I fitted a new Dayco belt and a tensioner. All was fine, did 5000 miles, noticed an oil leak which was from timing case gasket so I stripped it to renew it. On removing the cover, I discovered that the belt had moved forward on the gears and was only half is width. It looked like it had worn on the tensioner. I assumed I had a duff tensioner that was too close to the timing case so put a washer behind the bracket and reassembled it. That takes me to now, 30000 miles later. It appears that the same problem had occurred again although not quite as serious as previously. Why is the belt trying to move forwards off the timing gears ? Some photos below to illustrate the problem. Mo
  2. defender 200tdi injectors

    Splendid Ian, pleased to hear it. Mo
  3. Alternative level plug for Salisbury axle?

    John, the filler plugs are a tapered thread where as that one looks to be a parallel thread. Mo
  4. defender 200tdi injectors

    Don't the injector seals have a crush segment that should be compressed ? Only you say it looked unmarked. Could the injector not be seating properly ? Mo
  5. Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

    Undone all the bolts ? Have you given it a good shake to break the bond between it and the gearbox ? Have you removed the input gear ? Mo
  6. 110 1991 CSW door lock barrels & ignition switch

    ... but I can see them wrecking the door if you catch them on a tree whilst laning unlike the weak plastic ones which just disappear 😁 Mo
  7. MOT advisory, WATCH OUT !

    I use a length of string around the 4 wheels to do the tracking on mine. Mo
  8. Removal of 110 front shocks

    All these problems occurred because your steering wheel is on the wrong side, Mike. That sort of bolt seizing never happens in the UK. Possibly ... Mo
  9. Membership Changes - Read Here !

    2 quid a month chaps, far less than that **** that masquerades as a monthly Land Rover magazine and you get a shiny banner and no adverts. So not only does it save your life by stopping you drinking Red Bull but saves your mind by saving you from reading the magazines. What's not to like ? Win/win 😊 Mo
  10. Long brake travel

    You can also do it with a clutch slave, if you fancied mixing it up a bit 😊 Mo
  11. Return of Defender?

    In the seventies Land Rover was the only BL brand making any money. Rather than invest that money back in Land Rover it was spent propping up the the rest of the loss making British Leyland empire and so the Land Rover range barely developed. Good old nationalisation. Mo
  12. Defender 300tdi Brake Help

    If it only happens when you drive you could also check your wheel bearings for play. If they have play in them then they can knock the pads back as they wobble resulting in a spongy feeling pedal. HTH Mo
  13. Quick lift pump query

    The 300 lift pump has a built in screen ? If so then surely it's better to fit a 300 lift pump to the 200 ? I imagine the mounting will be the same just different pipe fittings. Mo
  14. 200tdi running temp

    Water, John. Mo
  15. Quick lift pump query

    £234.54 ! Ye Gods !
  16. Quick lift pump query

    No John I'm not that flush, I can't remember who from, I need to find the spare. I looked to see who the manufacturer was and then went to their own website. I starting to think that genuine is looking an attractive buy despite its price ! Mo
  17. 200tdi running temp

    My 200 now sits at 91-92°C pretty constantly measured on a VDO gauge and sender. Mind you it cost a refurbished head and a new radiator to achieve that. Mo
  18. Quick lift pump query

    I bought 2 OEM lift pumps direct from the manufacturers website last year, one to fit as replacement and a spare. I discovered at the weekend that I need the spare 🙁 Mo
  19. Finding a switched LIve in engine bay puma 63 plate 90

    The thing is shorty, that the wire from the vehicle harness is not capable of supplying the power that you need now and in the future. You will only draw milliamps through it to close the relay. It's job is to tell the relay when to close and when to open thus only providing power to your new fuse box only when the ignition is on and in doing so only drawing a tiny amount through your vehicles original wiring. Mo
  20. New Member Logos !!!!!

    😆
  21. Finding a switched LIve in engine bay puma 63 plate 90

    1. 40 amp relay should suffice. 2. If you wire straight from the battery to the fuse box shortimers, it won't be ignition switched. The relay is opening and closing according to whether the ignition is on or off. I know it's hard to get you head round in the beginning 😊 HTH Mo
  22. Transmission mounts

    I found, as Snagger did, that the Glencoyne mounts reduced the teeth chattering tick over vibes from my 200. Mo
  23. Grinding noise coming from transfer box.

    ... and a top hat. Mo 😊
  24. Finding a switched LIve in engine bay puma 63 plate 90

    Shorty, basically your relay switches a connection from battery to your new auxiliary fuse box. The relay is in turn switched by one ignition switched live. Apologies if I'm teaching my grandmother to stuck eggs. You turn the ignition on, that closes the relay, power flows to the fuse box. Turn the ignition off, the relay opens, and power to the auxiliary fuse box stops, hence ignition switched. The beauty of it is that you only use one ignition switched live wire to run EVERYTHING that you want and you'll only draw enough current from that ignition sourced supply to keep the relay closed (milliamps). The power for your accessories goes via another terminal on the relay straight from battery to auxiliary fuse box. No strain then on the existing harness and fuses. Normally you would source the ignition switched live from a spare slot on your vehicles fuse box or from an unused slot in a connector. I'm not familiar with new Defenders fuse board layouts but I'm sure someone with more knowledge can point you in the right direction. All much safer than piggybacking off existing circuits. Fuse boxes come in all shapes and sizes. I used this one as it has one supply for each bank of fuses. I use one side for an ignition switched supply to power an extra fan, the cb (I kept leaving it on and flattening the battery 😉) etc. And the other side as a permanent live for things like power sockets and usb sockets. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192217279549 I also run all my supplies with twin core wire of the appropriate size and take the earth back to the earth busbar on the fuse box. As this is connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery I get the best earth. HTH Mo
  25. Finding a switched LIve in engine bay puma 63 plate 90

    TBH shorty, I wouldn't be looking at running anything from the standard wiring except a relay, which will only take milliamps. If you want additional power supplies for accessories then do it properly and put a small fuse box and an ignition switched relay in your battery box and run the stuff you want from that. It's really simple and easy to do and a whole lot safer than piggy backing off other circuits. HTH Mo
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