J@mes

Just to reply to this, I didn't get round to making a lid but picked this up off ebay today, made by someone in the RMP to keep their gear in the trailer secure while out on duty, had four lockable hatches and bolts on to the trailer lip. Some seals around the edges and over the hinges will make it waterproof for my needs

I'm looking at putting new lights on my Sankey as the old fittings are rusty and some of the screw on lense caps are damaged meaning they don't screw on very well and fall off. So, is there any direct or nearly direct replacement I can fit? Bolt On Bits sell plenty of Wipac units, do these fit ok, or has anyone else fitted anything else? It's already been converted to 12v lamps and I'm waiting for a 12N plug to arrive so I can fit that too. Cheers

"spent its entire life in sunny Cypress its never seen snow or salt and very little rain" Righto, when I lived in Cyprus it absolutely bloody Mildly miffed it down for 4 months of the year! And as soon as you went in to the mountains.....snow, lots of it!

Very nice, thanks for posting. I have seen a guide in the interweb which shows how to fit a series 2/3 lid to the sankey, looks do-able but a fair amount of running around the country collecting a couple of 88" roof panels.

Got any pics? do you know if the wide track and narrow track tubs are the same size?

Evening all, I'm considering buying a sankey trailer to use for camping and general purpose, but want to store it outside at a caravan storage facility local to us as my current trailer is taking up too much room in my garage. So, I need to put a secure, weathertight lid on it. Ideally it will be strong and lightweight, easy to open and reasonably cheap to produce/fit. So, anyone got any ideas, plans or pictures that they have done or know of where this has been done? I thought about using GRP panels or 2mm aluminium, but I'm unsure of what products are available on the market with regards to the hinges and keeping it weathertight. Any information/ ideas would be appreicated!

I moved from a 300TDi D1 to the TDV6 D3 and its the best thing I ever did. Yes it has cost me a fortune in repairs but for every day use, towing and off roading it batters my D1. As they get older there are more people who are able to work on them, people are "cracking" the electrical and software issues surrounding servicing/ repairs. More and more accessories are coming out for them too - rock/tree sliders, sump guards, underbody protection etc. Who cares if you need to take the body off to get the engine out? there are D3's out there with 300K miles on them and they are still going strong. Issues with body removal for turbo replacement and cambelt work have been solved meaning the jobs can be done without. 2nd hand parts are appearing too, and guides for servicing and repairs are popping up all the time on the D3 forum. I fixed my electronic parking brake in 20 minutes two nights ago, saved me a £200 trip to the dealer. D1 owners griped when the TD5 came out - fact is, evolution has brought on a superior vehicle which although it has a few issues, it shouldn't put anyone off buying one. Best of all, it doesn't leak and it doesn't rot

Ah ok thanks, so it might be worth buying the whole pipe but joining the new end in the engine bay in order to renew that union. cheers

Noticed I was leaking a few dribbles of diesel when I was parked up so I tightened the union that is between the main line to the front of the car and the short one that feeds in to the derv pump itself. Drove it and now it's absolutely pissing out, despite being tight. put some PTFE tape on the joint for now, but is this union easy to change? how far back does the pipe to the back of the engine bay go before it reaches another joint? cheers

Sorted again now, not sure what the problem was but after removing the column cowling it now starts again. So I've put it all back together again and it's still fine. guess there must have been part of the cowling upsetting one of the harness plugs. Nice easy job to do - didn't need to remove the steering wheel or stalks as suggested in other threads - just the cowling and lower the column to its lowest position! cheers!

Now not working again. checked all wiring and its all fine, but again - the electrics all come on but the car wont start. is there some kind of technique to it? tried locking and leaving for a short while but that's not working. I have had the battery off since the last time which is the only thing I have done different. HELP!!!

sorted! couple of minutes with it locked via the fob seems to have sorted it!

Just changed my ignition barrel for a Bearmach one and now the car wont start. all plugs are in, electrics come on just that when I try to turn the key to start, a red key symbol comes up on the dash. what is it, and how do I get round it? Didnt think anything else needed doing when fitting a new barrel or are they linked to the immobiliser somehow other than the exciter ring? quick please, I'm in the middle of doing it! cheers

how much current does the fag lighter element actually draw, bearing in mind it is a direct short circuit until it pops out?

while we're on the subject does anyone have a google earth overlay file that they would like to send me by PM?