oneandtwo

I have had a couple of 300tdi that have been sitting unused for years which when started have idled too fast. Each time with the engine off I have worked the throttle lever directly on the pump to full throttle and let it go so it flicks back to idle a number of times and this has always cured the sticking high idle.

Having owned a very original, unrestored 1950 80” for eight years before I sold it, I’d much rather have the hybrid above!

I have broken many Defenders over the years. Pretty sure that is a 1991-1994 standard loom. It’s no later as the relays changed in 1994.

Britpart DA1132P / DA1134P stainless kits are excellent, exact replica of the TD5 / Puma bolts, although they don’t include spire clips - late Pumas ditched the spire clips anyway and went back to Series 2A type captive nut plates.

You can use the standard Series 3 headlamp off/on/on toggle switch - I have this in my 2A lightweight to operate the two speed wipers Including parking correctly - instead of the single speed wipers. I will remove the instrument panel in the next few days If you would like photos, it required an extra wire piggy backing onto one of the terminals from memory.

1/4 unf from memory

I had to repair a 200tdi 90 many years ago which had suffered a rear UJ failure on front prop - it needed a new drivers floor panel, it had ripped a load of the screws out of the spire nuts and put some huge dents in the floor.

My fathers Puma 90CSW has just suffered wheel bearing / stub axle failure at 22K, ironically noticed the rumbling when performing another downgrade - replacing the already sloppy rear half shafts for some 25 year old disco ones. I put it down to poor selection of bearing spacers when new. And on the subject of Main dealer bills - his previous td5 90CSW he bought second hand had a main dealer bill in the paperwork for £780 for replacing a rear half shaft / drive member!

I have SFS hoses which were fitted by Twisted on my 300tdi when they upgraded it many years ago. These, along with Samco which I had on another 300tdi are excellent. I did some work on a 300tdi for someone else some time ago and it had been fitted with MK performance hoses and they were really thin and floppy compared to the SFS / Samco hose

I’m currently running an Ashcroft ATB in rear of my 300tdi 90, excellent diff - Only trouble is I want to pinch it for my Puma 90 to match the Ashcroft 4 pin in the front of the Puma. I have an old 24 spline Truetrac that came fitted to a 90 which I scrapped - if I fit the truetrac to the 300tdi in place of the Ashcroft, am I going to notice any difference between it and the Ashcroft in operation? The 300tdi is driven on the sand a lot and I have found the Ashcroft invaluable. The other option would be to buy a second Ashcroft ATB for the rear of the Puma, and convert / fit the True

The head seal is dead easy to change, you can do it in situ in a couple of minutes once you have removed the injector pipes. You undo the bolts just enough to expose the O ring and no more, and use two longer bolts to temporarily hold the head in position while new o ring is stretched over the head. These seem to fail if the injector pump is removed and refitted again and you have the old type injector pump support bracket which does not align the pump up in exactly the same place every time.

I ran my 300tdi 90 hardtop with 1.2 transfer box with late Q gears, continental cross contacts, TD5 soundproofing mats and an amount of silentcoat, it was fine on the motorways. Quieter than the completely standard 56plate 90CSW I had at the same time. obviously the Puma I replaced the td5 with was far better than both 300tdi Top quality parts availability is fine.

Buy the correct genuine Land Rover felt runners. They will be pre drilled for the countersunk screws in the correct locations. Generic stuff isn’t and is more aimed at the series 3 door top market. There is a long thin aluminium strip which is fitted on rear of rear vertical runner from memory, never really worked out what this shims function is, but I have always refitted it. The main shims are 2-3 small pieces of alloy which adjust the runner inwards to take up the slack in the window. These small shims are easily made as they are ridiculously expensive last time I looked. if you a

Sometimes they pull straight out, sometimes slide hammer or put the flange back on and lever it out as above. why are you removing it? Has the bearing defiantly failed or does it feel like there is play in it? They all feel slightly loose from new due to the bearing clearance.

The shaft comes out with the bearing, you then press the shaft out of the bearing. The bearing is usually tight in the casing, slide hammer on the output shaft will pull the shaft / bearing out.