oneandtwo

I doing 160 miles from lands end to Taunton most weeks a few years ago in my old 300tdi 90, the floor and tunnel were incredibly hot during the summer - just fitting the Rocky Mountain finned lt230 sump made a massive improvement to the seatbox / tunnel far more than I expected it to. I may take the TIG welder to a new one to make it fit my Puma.

I have a brand new genuine Land Rover 2016 manufactured td5 bulkhead I have no use for now, was purchased for my parents Td5 and saved for the future but they upgraded to a Puma CSW shortly after purchase. I would sell on for the same sort of money being asked for the pattern bulkheads, but would have to be collected from Cornwall

A lesson on door and panel alignment wouldn’t go amiss.

They are a straight thread, the same as the old 2286 sump plugs from memory.

@EscapeI used to have a Lotus Esprit S1 which only had a spare front wheel, but the back wheels were a much larger diameter and completely different offset, I never had a puncture but always wondered what to do if it had a rear puncture.

I only have one as a 90 hardtop looks wrong without one in the rear door!

Late 2A’s that I have owned have had Irvin Parachute company seatbelts

I used brushable tetrosyl and similar specific seam sellers ten or so years ago and wasn’t that impressed with it, seemed to shrink over time. Best thing I have found is Soudal Carbond, not sold as. Assam sealer as such but is excellent - I have done a number of bulkhead with this now with no issues and completely overpaintable.

If you look in the workshop manual there is a table of torque settings for generic bolts which do not have a specific torque. M10 is 45nm

The best riding series I’ve had was a 2A lightweight modified for trialling with military spring hangers front and rear, with front dumb irons modified to military Spec with increased drop. It had custom elliptical leaf springs but with only three leaves - the 7.50 tyres would contact the tub on articulation, and it rode like a well sorted coiler. Was also running an SU carb on tweaked 2286 petrol with full cage, tank in rear load bed, ignition coil mounted in cab and a host of other well thought out mods. The rear springs are visible in the photo below I sometimes regret rebuilding it back to standard(ish) onto a new Richards chassis and Rocky Mountain 2 leaf parabolics now.

Close up of shaft

I’ve just rebuilt two 4 bolt boxes for spares. The shafts were worn and pitted at the bottom so I had the seal area ground and chrome plated (£45 per shaft locally) All new Koyo shaft needle bearings were £35 the set (B2012, B2016 and B2020 bearings). Corteco full seal / O ring kit was £17. I did strip a third box down which ironically I thought would be the best as was the newest off my Puma but that had suffered one of the shaft needle bearings breaking up and had scored the shaft on the bearing surfaces rendering the shaft scrap.

I have always thought it was as you said, because of the one piece stub / drive flange on the early disco has no way of correctly setting the cv joint to stub axle clearance with circlip and shims.

Must be engine related as my Puma 90CSW is exempt and checked my old 2006 TD5 CSW and that is still exempt.

Do it yourself but you will need a press.