oneandtwo

I bought four genuine td5 bulkheads from the last batch land rover made in early 2016, for around the same price. Despite some ridicule at spending £4000 on them they have proved a good investment as I have sold two of them recently for £2000 each!

Mine did exactly the same. Would cut radio when lights operated. More worryingly occasionally it would also cut power to stop solenoid for split second when lights turned on. It was poor earth from transfer box to painted galvanised chassis. Cleaned off paint back to clean metal and has been faultless for 4 years.

The proper qr connectors for the puma/tdci tank are only £4 each. I used them and Oem spec rigid nylon pipe to make my ROW fuel lines, save rubber hose from perishing in the future.

I have been plagued by bent axles over the years. 1950 80” had a bent front axle casing, due to collision in 50’s I believe and was never spotted until I bought it. 1966 ex army 2a bent front axle presumably during military service 1968 lightweight bent front axle, this was a trialer so could’ve happened trialling or military. 300tdi 90 bent rear stub axle, rear wheel didn’t look quite right and half shaft hard to remove as binding on stub axle. Finally I bent a 300tdi front axle clipping a wall at 15- 20mph. No bodywork damage, popped the tyre and bent the axle!

My 1968 lightweight had the strengthened front and rear axles, the front one was still bent despite the reinforcing! If you look carefully, as well as being fitted with the additional VPK aeon spring mountings the front casing in photo above is reinforced on the short side too - bump stop is braced to the spring locating foot on front and back of front axle. Both my 1980 lightweights had standard unreinforced axles.

I’ve had Alli sport breathers fitted to my 300tdis for ages. I’ve never had any oil in the air filter, but I always used to get oil leaking from the old cyclonic breather to rocker cover joint, despite new O rings etc. The Alli sport breathers totally cured that leak. I was on the understanding that the Alli sport breathers are actually not as good as the original cyclonic breathers as I didn’t think there was actually anything inside the Alli sport ones, they are just an empty chamber?

My 300tdi 90 is definatly down on performance since fitting the hideously expensive genuine Land Rover Puma raised air intake.

My 300tdi has just started intermittently flashing its battery charge warning light, it only happens on long motorway runs after about 1/2 hr, it flashes for a fraction of a second and then off again every 20 - 30 seconds, although I’ve just done a 150 mile trip and it’s was definatly getting more regular. It seems entirely random and doesn’t follow any pattern such as bumpy roads, use of any vehicle electrics etc. its a 6 month old Denso alternator (300tdi disco model but with upgraded wiring), all connections and wiring appear clean and tight. any ideas before I replace the alternator?

And don’t be alarmed when it’s all done with the time it takes for the engine to warm up on the instruments. Mine with original instruments used to be up to temp after a minute or two. Soon as I swapped to the late sender and td5 instruments warm up period took 4 times as long.

My two Allisport full width 300tdi ones have been fine, both at least 7 years old. I fitted aircon nosecones as the standard panel rubs agains the intercooler even when trimmed

I though that was the function of the G valve on earlier vehicles- this valve block is mounted transversely across the vehicle so not sure how a ball and spring would function as it would need to be mounted lengthways like the old G valve / series PDWA valve was?

My parents have a 56 plate 90csw, The brakes have never inspired me with confidence, although it passes mot each year with no problems. They do stop ok, but are nowhere near as sharp as my own defenders, however I noticed in the wet when braking hard will lock up the offside front wheel consistently. Last month I fitted new TRW servo, new Delphi master cylinder, new calipers all round, new pads, new discs, replaced every hard brake line with new and fitted goodridge hoses. I rebuilt both axles / new bearings / new swivels etc while I was at it. All the tyres are matched General Grabbers, and luckily it is the County version without ABS. Still after all this it is still doing exactly the same - locking the offside front wheel up first. It will lock it in the dry if stamped on hard enough. The only part I haven’t changed for new on the whole vehicle last month is the brake pressure valve on the footwell - NTC8836 Does anyone know how the pressure valve functions? The plumbing of the brakes is that the near side front brake is fed directly from the master cylinder, whereas the offside one with the problem routes through this valve along with the rear brake pipe; my thinking is that there may be an internal fault with the valve and the offside front is receiving a boost in pressure from the rear.

New mounts are only £12 each side, yours are 2” lowered ones for lifted suspension.

The 90 went back to separate drive shafts and flanges on rear 2003-2004. I’ve always assumed it was when the Salisbury was ditched in the 110, The 90 reverted to the same halfshafts as the 110 hd Rear Rover axle for cost saving measures. The four post 2004 90s I’ve owned the first thing I’ve done when I’ve got them home is to bung a couple of old disco 300tdi shafts in.

From the original poster it seems he forgot to refit the factory fitted bolts and large spreader washers that attach the rear tie down loops to the chassis and also form the upper mountings for the genuine adjustable hitch. These m10 bolts as standard go through the chassis from the inside of the chassis to the outside, so when the tank is in place they cannot be refitted. If this is the case using the correct length bolts (either 110mm or 100mm) they can go from the outside of the chassis rails inwards with the nuts and spreader washers on the inside, you end up with 5-8mm clearance each side from the tank but they do fit fine. If you have a 300tdi rear crossmember with a td5 tank how does the tank cradle attach to the crossmember? Presumably the 300tdi crossmember is modified to allow the cradle studs to pass through the crossmember rear face and access holes for the nuts?