oneandtwo

Bleed hole has probably been blocked for years - it’s only when the pump is drained down of fuel that it becomes an issue.

Revised bracket has two sliding bushes similar to an alternator mounting where it mounts to pump to prevent pump being overtightened onto a misaligned bracket. Also you need to make a small gasket to pack out the central mounting bolt of the timing case cover - kits sometimes come with this gasket included, sometimes they don’t. If gasket not fitted it distorts the cover when central bolt tightened.

Fit revised injector bracket ERR6835 if not already fitted, they can be picked up second hand cheaply now.

I’ve posted about this before but you can get an airlock in the pump if the tiny bleed hole is blocked in the return line banjo bolt at the top rear of the pump, which cause the exact symptoms you have - no fuel reaching the pump head / fuel solenoid. Try removing this banjo bolt from the return line fitting on the pump and turning the engine over, this will bleed air from the pump if the hole or integral filter s blocked and hopefully engine will start. Hole in banjo bolt can be cleaned out with a strand of wire.

I converted my 2a lightweight to twin speed with park using a series headlight switch, if any use? Didn’t require any cutting into loom either.

I had a LR genuine parts exchange 300tdi about ten years ago which had the worst paint job imaginable from the factory, it appeared to have had a bucket of grey hammerite dumped on it from above covering everything, head, inlet, block, timing case and sump, before the application of Genuine Parts decals and dataplate. It was all peeling off the alloy parts when it arrived, ten years on it has almost all fallen off!

Rear main bearing t seals failing and poorly sealed sump can cause second leak. I’ve had to replace two rotten 300tdi sumps now!

I have had a Denso 100amp 300tdi alternator for 3 years, The pulley was perfectly in line with the other pulleys on the engine straight out of the box - most others I have had over the years usually require shimming of the alternator to get it perfectly in line to reduce belt wear.

My 2a stick rattled incessantly despite new oring (didn’t last long) I ended up buying a pattern s3 gearstick for little over £10 as it was fitted with nylon bush on ball instead of oring. I bent the stick to s2a shape and cut the thread in the top to fit 2a knob - works perfectly with absolutely no rattle.

I once returned a Britool torque wrench and breaker bar to them for warranty in mid 2000s. The torque wrench was replaced but the breaker bar couldn’t be replaced because it wasn’t made by that Britool but the other Britool!! Still love the last of the English made satin spanner’s from late 90’s. All that is left of them now in Cannock is a giant spanner sculpture where the factory once stood

I put a 2.8 daihatsu in a series many years go with Milner conversion kit. Basic agricultural diesel. Started well, lots of low down torque. Parts were extortionate. Noisy. Went back to petrol in the end. Wouldn’t have one these days.

I have both, a very late 56plate 90csw and 2.4 tdci 90 hardtop. The tdci is far superior. They are both factory standard and unmodified and both 100k on them. Bad points of the tdci are the input splines which I have replaced with the Ashcroft kit, rear drive members but the td5 suffers the same, and when the clutch slave cylinder failed I had to remove the gearbox to replace it.

For the axles disco and Defender axle breather banjos have the same thread as series axle breathers so you can retrofit a pair of breathers from a scrap disco/defender.

It had me fooled for a while, couldn’t work out for the life of me why no fuel to injectors with stop solenoid plunger removed, yet masses of fuel pressure built up in injector pump where the lift pump had been compressing the air trapped in the pump. Literally cracked the return banjo bolt mentioned earlier which bled out the trapped air and it started instantly. I now clean the filter gauze / banjo bolt in acetone as part of service item. You can check bolt hole is clear by blowing down it.

I have had a 300tdi that refused to start - it had been standing for some years. The fuel would be pressurised by lift pump if you cracked the inlet union on the pump, but couldn’t get any fuel to the injectors despite removing the stop solenoid plunger. Eventually traced it to the banjo bolt on back of pump where injector return and return line to tank is connected to the pump. I cracked this and the engine started instantly - there is a tiny hole in the banjo bolt and a filter gauze which vents any air trapped in pump back to tank; the hole had become blocked and the pump had an airlock, so try removing the banjo bolt and turning it over briefly.