Les Henson Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Another job that looks difficult but isn't really. The PAS pump is buried under the water pump, behind the alternator among a nest of pipes, wires, etc etc. A process of removing these items to get at it is straightforward, and no special tools are required to do it either. Syptoms of PAS pump problems is usually a puddle under the vehicle, (yes I know there are lots!), this one will be close to the front of the vehicle and the fluid will be red. Other syptoms can be noisy bearings or jerky steering. Bit like this really! Here we go then. Release the tensioner and move the fan belt out of the way, making a note of the route it takes around the various wheels. Both intercooler hoses need to be removed, the top one has three ends to be disconnected - two by jubilee clips, and the metal pipe by two m6 (10mm head) bolts. With the removal of the top intercooler hose the PAS pump wheel can be seen, the centre, smooth wheel in this picture. The bottom intercooler pipe is rubber coated steel, and is held either end by two jubilee clips. Fairly easy to remove. The air box needs to be removed as well, undo the 4-clips that hold the top on, disconnect the thin pipe that's close to the inner wing, disconnect the top hose to the air box, and lift the top away. Lift out the air filter element. The base will pull up and slightly rearwards. It would be even easier if the radiator top hose was removed, but then the cooling system would have to be drained, so I'll work round them instead. Alternator next. Disconnect the battery, unplug the spade connection that passes through the terminal cover on the rear of the alternator, remove the terminal cover, make a note of the wires and their position, and then undo the two 6mm nuts and tie the wires out of the way. The alternator is held by a bolt at the bottom, and a long nut and bolt at the top. Remove these and lift the alternator away. Putting bolts back where they came out is a good practice. It prevents them from getting lost or put back in the wrong hole. The PAS pump can't be removed with the wheel still on it, so grip the wheel with a strap wrench or devise a way of holding it without damage and undo the three bolts. The bolt that you can see partly undone is the lower alternator bolt where I have temporarily put it back. There's a plate that holds the pump and the alloy casting. There are 7-bolts in total. The 4 that hold the plate to the casting are longer than the three that hold the pump to the plate, keep them seperate and make sure they go back in the right place. This is the plate, the longer 4 outer bolts in their holes. The pump is now loose, and only the pipes remain to be disconnected from it. One is the low pressure feed from the reservoir, and the other is high pressure from the pump to the steering box. The low pressure pipe is secured by a jubilee clip, remove the pipe from the pump and catch fluid as it drains out. The other pipe will need a 17mm spanner to undo. Again, catch any fluid that leaks out. The pump now removed. The replacement is brand new ZF unit. Good quality and proven reliabilty. The leaking fluid has made a right mess, grit from the road will be stuck to pipes etc, and could easily get where it shouldn't. Clean everything and take care when connecting the pipes that the thread doesn't strip. New pump in place and connected. Reassemble in the reverse order, fill the reservoir with new ATF, start the engine and let it idle, top the reservoir if necessary, then turn the steering lock to lock. Check the fluid level once again, and that should be it. No more leaks (well, from there anyway ) Les. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 On My Defender 300TDI I removed the fan then with the aux drive belt in place undid the pulley on the steering pump itself, The aux belt tension holding the pulley tight enough to undo the three bolts on the power steering pump pulley then removed the two pipes from the pump(placed a bucket underneath to catch the fluid. Followed Les's description of removing the pump. refitted and tightend the PSP pulley once the Aux belt was refitted Fan left off till bleeding had been completed. once air free viscous refitted. took a hour or two or so start to finish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West4x4 Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I've just done mine no need to remove alternator or airbox. Viscous fanoff then cowl top rad and intercooler hoses. undo pully nuts with the belt on then take the belt off clamp the hoses and remove the pump and refit new pump and put back together 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 14, 2006 Author Share Posted March 14, 2006 The method I used above is so that anyone with little or no knowledge of the job will hopefully be able to do it (or at least more likel'y to). I'm sure some of you can do it with your eyes closed, but others may not. Perhaps rather than chipping at my threads on here, some of you could actually post your own as an alternative method? That way things remain clear and easily understandable. Les. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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