Puffernutter Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Next update!LPG ECU disabled.Fuel rail pressure 41.1psiRemoved the cover plate on the lower bell housing and the timing pins are all straight and the CKP is sitting about 5-6mm into the pins.Removed spark plug from #1 cylinder (left front) and the spark appeared healthy (although I am doing this solo and all I can do is lean the plug against something metal and earthed!Attached a 'scope to the CKP sensor at the GEMS ECU (why is it always the one at the front, in the middle under where the loom is thickest!) The pulses are not as high as I was expecting (spec. said 18v, I reckon these were probably 8-10v pk-pk.) however they were all present, even height and evenly spaced, so it appears my crankshaft sensor is working.I then looked at plug #2 an initial bright spark, but died away to almost nothing. Again not sure if this is as a result of the way I was doing it, or whether this is the issue? (They are different coil drivers as they seem to be in pairs) 1&6, 2&3, 4&7, 5&8.What I suppose I should do is look at all the plugs (I'll probably change them all anyway and I'll test as I go!) Unfortunately, that wont be until Saturday now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Just because a plug sparks in free air, doesn't mean it will when in compression.... if the sparks is dying away then it sounds like you have found the area of the problem too me. I'd be checking engine earths, coil connectors and power feeds, taking voltage readings while cranking etc. Plugs in a warm oven (120C?) and pop them in will rule out flooding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Here's a link to the video. Not the best, but it was done one handed whilst starting the car with the other!https://youtu.be/TkIM342d-M0CheersPeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 It is interesting that one plug "appears" much stronger than the other (of the two and only two I have tested). It may also be the way I'm testing them! I shall take them out one at a time and change them/check for spark. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Here's an update. Earths all checked out and OK. Plug leads in the correct order. Large misfires on both petrol and LPG. Pitagora boxes checked and connections cleaned and remade. O2 sensors disconnected, no change. MAF disconnected, no change. Evidence of pulses to coil pack from the GEMS ECU. So, I'm down to timing and the main contributor to that is the CKP. Whilst it appears to be working, the pulse is weak, so I'll look at that next. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 To put this into context - I had finally worked out the problem was with the "reluctor ring" as it had two gaps in it, this was confusing the GEMS! The answer was to bodge a repair (that worked briefly, but failed) then either pull the box and replace the flywheel or fit a new timing wheel behind the front crank pulley. After advice and recommendations I went to the Megasquirt site and after a call and exchange of e-mails with Nige, go mt bits from them Sorry it's been a while - my day job is leading the Independent Safety Assessment team looking at the Great Western electrification! Life's been a tad busy recently, including a track walk to look at what they've been installing. Anyway, back to the Rangie!Nigel (of Megasquirt fame) was most helpful and after a phone call and exchange of e-mails I bought what I needed.Step 1 was to remove the crank pulley as I had to machine the rear surface. To do that I needed to get the radiator, cowl and viscous fan out the way. Anybody who has a Land Rover should shake in fear at the words "viscous fan". I spent the whole of Saturday afternoon trying to unscrew it. I checked and double check on the internet. Defender 19J and 200Tdi have LH threads on the fan. Discovery 200Tdi and 300Tdi have LH threads on the fan. Range Rover 4.6 Thor engines have LH threads on the fan. You can see what's coming - however Range Rover 4.6 GEMS engines have RH threads on the fan (took a second Google search to find that!) I spent the whole of Saturday afternoon tightening it up!!!!Anyhow, it came off this afternoon and with a rattle gun on the crank bolt, it came off surprisingly easy (being nice to me I think). So the pulley had the rear machined and the toothed wheel loosely fitted, together with the sensor. I still had some of the original installation left, so I could (pretty accurately) identify the centre of the missing tooth. I then aligned the toothed wheel, marked it, removed it and fitted it in position - see pictures below: The Megasquirt 36-1 toothed wheel and again - needed to machine the rear surface of the crank pulley to give a flat area to mount it The sensor, loosley mounted In position as close as I can to the wheel to get the maximum signal and another view Finally - life Thanks for all the help and advice. We got there in the end! Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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