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Everything posted by Bowie69

  1. A ratchet strap or two are your friend on this one, and remove only one at a time if possible. Chassis end first, then wriggle it in place with the ratchet strap and a big hammer.
  2. Ironically the F1 had a BMW engine in it, then later they tied up with Mercedes to make the SLR.... I prefer the F1, beautiful car, but for a new one, the Senna is something else.
  3. Yes those electric turbo's should be termed superchargers, just like the centrifugal superchargers put there. There's no turbine, so no 'turbo' part to them. The McLaren F1 was normally aspirated, suspect you may mean the McLaren Mercedes, which was supercharged, and yes, they do take a lot of oomph to run, so in effect a 500hp supercharged engine with a supercharger taking 100hp to run it will be producing 600hp at the crank..... Some modern cars ( I forget which for examples) do run electric superchargers to fill in the boost gaps before the engine picks up speed/while the turbo is spooling. F1 engine have the electric motor driving the turbo turbine spindle, so that really is an electric turbo, and it also harvests electrical energy from the turbo by slowing the turbine with the electric motor instead of using a waste gate to control boost. All very clever but you never want it to go wrong.
  4. You have two plugs not firing and the other pig rich. Check your coil packs for spark and wiring to them.
  5. Looks great, be impressed if you got away with charging, at cost, less than £100, if you included your labour at even a modest rate. Is one of those ali rings where you got your stalk clamp for your 109 from?!
  6. The S is just for the copper core plug, likely make no difference at all.
  7. Cheers @Peaklander, cut my own teeth on 6502 assembler and even machine code for a while, now quite heavily into Web stuff, like you though, arduino has passed me by.
  8. Was thinking about this, accumulative watt meter would be far more use, you would know exactly what had gone in then, over say a day, and then it resets.... Or something. I expect fridge has this sort of thing kicked with an arduino and a couple bits of string.... As for combined volt/ammeter.... For a quality featured item, new in the shelf as a full kit they are going to be £150 all day for retail.
  9. A sniff of easy start will tell you if you have spark.
  10. Not to mention the currency fixing....
  11. If that's idle, you are running waaaaay to much advance. It will run like that, but pull it back to 10 as a starter. A lean mixture burns more slowly, so it is possible that it is still burning when the exhaust valve opens, causing the popping. Tune idle to 13.5 afr. Screen grabs on the ve and spark tables would be handy at this point, or even the msq. I'm going with leads or a miss-timed trigger wheel at the moment.
  12. What do you think is wrong, the stud holes?
  13. I'm surprised there's even a cap in there!
  14. I'm gonna bet this helps, when you scroll through the pics: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F202831131114 PDWA, with two lines to the front, no tee.
  15. Amplifies the noise of the engine so you think you are ragging it, makes you change up early
  16. A simple heat shield should be enough for a battery near a turbo.
  17. Looking here, on a 19J, which is essentially a 12J like you have with a turbo bolted on, the piston and rod will come out the top, no need to remove the engine/crank, just whip the sump off and unbolt the con rods.
  18. If a ring does break, then yes it is normally new rings and a quick glaze bust.
  19. Just use the original pistons and rings, no need to deglaze. The tool you are on a out is a piston ring compressor, and about £15. Yes, rings are fragile, but taking your time and not forcing things and you will be fine. For bearing size, check the old ones, they will be stamped with -10, for example, for a 10 though undergrind. Buy the same ones. If no marking they are standard.
  20. When times are tight, do what you need to, when they are right, fix it properly. As above, throw a couple of conrods at it and slap the head back on.
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