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Bowie69

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Bowie69 last won the day on May 29

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About Bowie69

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    Permanently befuddled......

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    Wedmore, Somerset

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  1. Oh man, that *IS* nice... Love the ammo belt - I thought you'd finished it!
  2. Body is rather rough to be honest, with silver paint splashed over anything galved, Salisbury axle in the rear for some reason, lack of imagination when fitting the diesel heater. But yes, certainly not the sum cost of the new parts on it.
  3. Hello 9mpg! On a lighter note, someone please buy this before I do: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254332026585 Alwyas had a 'thing' for those Russian bread vans that seem to do the impossible, this is about as close as I think you can get for very little money (so far). Fibreglass cab, 4wd with front and rear diff locks, independent suspension, 660kg and 600cc engine! And somehow a 500kg payload....
  4. .... Or a left field one, a Buick 215 pulley?
  5. Fair enough, I must have seen it elsewhere then! RRCs are different, less grooves, as they run ancillaries by (for example) a double pulley on the PAS pump, ith a belt off that to alternator. AC is on a separate belt off the water pump as well, I think. Perhaps an SD1, I guess some had AC?
  6. Agreed, I think it is a 101 24V FFR variant, though no practical use really to most people that have sensible brains - much simpler methods of doing things around.
  7. I think @neilc means the drag link rotates on the ball joints (at least that is what the pictures show), in which case, this is a good thing, it needs to be able to, or it will bind up.
  8. Personally, I think that hinge is quite likely to fold in half. I'd and get it shrunk, as above.
  9. I am more amazed that the glass appears to have all stayed in!
  10. As above, disassemble more than you think you need to and fix it all, or you will be taking it all apart again in a year.
  11. You won't able to change the whole lot unless your torque converter is empty, you will perhaps change half of it using the following method: Replacing oil: 1. Ensure that gearbox is cool. Apply handbrake and securely chock front and rear wheels. 2. Place a suitable container beneath gearbox. 3. Clean area around oil filler/level and drain plugs. 4. Remove oil drain plug, remove and discard sealing washer. 5. Allow oil to drain. 6. Fit new sealing washer to oil drain plug. 7. Fit automatic gearbox drain plug and tighten to 15 Nm (11 lbf.ft). 8. Remove oil filler/level plug, remove and discard sealing washer. 9. Fill gearbox with recommended oil to bottom of oil level/filler plug hole. +CAPACITIES, FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS, Lubrication. 10. Select 'P' (Park). 11. Ensure handbrake is applied. 12. Start engine and allow it to idle. 13. Apply footbrake. 14. Move selector lever through all gear positions, while continuing to fill the gearbox. Select 'P' (Park). 15. With engine idling, continue filling gearbox until a 2 mm bead of oil runs from oil filler/level plug hole. 16. Fit new sealing washer to automatic gearbox filler/level plug, fit plug and tighten to 30 Nm (22 l b f . f t ) . 17. Stop engine. 18. Remove all traces of oil from gearbox casing.
  12. This one? https://www.lrdirect.com/ERR3356-Oil-Seal-Camshaft-300-Tdi/
  13. Brakes out of adjustment, or possibly hydraulics slowly failing.
  14. A heat exchanger should help you, these are very efficient: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392371915664 I have a similar one installed parents diesel camper van and it will supply continuous *really* hot water while the engine is running.
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