Housten

Hey guys. I’m from Germany. Doing the swap as well. Actually I’m almost finished. I have chosen this engine, as this is one of the best options for desert racing. Many Dakar teams are using the M57 (strong, robust, good economy, etc.). Even the last 3 Dakar winners (Mini X-Raid) are using the same baseline (I think it’s a 2010 M57 with BiTurbo, producing 320hp / 800Nm). Also, as you meanwhile know the BMW 6cyl Diesels bolt straight onto the P38 driveline. I was looking for gearbox alternatives as well, but the problem is the transfer box. First of all I was using a BMW 330xd AWD gearbox. This one is very strong, but you would need to produce an adapter housing + shaft, to be able to bolt it onto your LT230. The thing is, if gear-/transfer box are not 100% aligned, you will get issues with your bearings etc.. Rally Raid UK offers both adapters, but they are extremely expensive. Another option is to use the X3 transfer case. But it’s not capable if you use it for heavy offroad. And I’m not sure if the flanges are on the correct side. Rakeway produces an LT230 remote shaft, if you want to mount the LT230 remote.. That being said, I ended up using an Ashcroft R380 with P38 primary shaft and LT230 end. Of course with HD bearings and external cooler. As my 110 is a LHD, the generator is clashing with the steering box. I cut the bulkhead and moved the powertrain back at least 25cm. The engine is now sitting behind the front axle – YEAH! Everything else was simple. Vehicle harness is from rally raid UK. ****in expensive for a few wires. I had someone who disabled the 330d immo box. For info: I bought a 184ps 330d manual, where I took away all the parts (accel pedal etc.). Some pictures. If you want to follow the project and see more photos and videos, how the race car is going crazy in the dunes of Sahara, follow us no facbook: www.facebook.com/BlackDezertRacing Unfortunately I now had to take out the engine again. My clutch actuation looks like it doesn’t work. See pictures. Pilot bearing, DMF, clutch plate assembly, bell housing – everything is from a P38 Diesel manual. But the actuator arm is already in its end position?!? Remember, this type of clutch is supposed to be pulled. The picture shows the bell housing without gearbox – mounted to the engine. I’m not sure if this is the normal rest position for the clutch. There’s almost no cylinder travel left to actuate the fork (maybe 1cm). I don't know if this is normal. Actually I'm using the correct parts... Maybe I just need to give it a try. Cheers, Housten

I do have best experience with Profender shocks (which is the manufacturer of TF shocks).. I already tried the gas shocks on a Disco 1. Excellent price/performance ratio. We're racing Profender triple bypass shocks in our race truck. But that's a different story They now offer different adjustable shocks for Land Rover: --> www.profender-shocks.com