gonewestnz
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Posts posted by gonewestnz
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Hi all had an issue with my 4.6 engined 90. As I hadn't used it for a few weeks I decided to take it for a run.
Before I set off I decided to let it warm up and came inside. After about 5 mins I heard a screech sound and engine stalled. I rushed out to find flaming material falling under the engine bay. After extinguishing the flames, I disconnected the battery and did a quick inspection to find the paint on the starter motor had been burnt off and that was the Flames I had seen falling to the ground. A mouse has chewed an HT lead so suspect they may have caused a problem.
So now I am replacing the starter with a used one from Ebay. Can someone please advise the name of the socket to remove the two bolts that secure the starter. I have read they are 8mm Allen bolts but can't find the relevant socket on ebay or Amazon.i am keen to use correct tool as do not wish to damage the bolts.
I am thinking of replacing them with conventional bolts when they finally come off to prevent future issues is this feasible?
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Have gone for the Gwyn Lewis OME option but when I start my winch buggy build will have a look at pro fender as they look interesting
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I realise it's as always you get what you pay for that's why I didn't mention the TF + 5" shocks as atround $200 a set I can't see them
Being as good as the others mentioned, though never had issues with Terrafirma parts in the past and like their products as a rule.
I also discounted pro comps for this reason.
I did speak to Koni a while back as I like their shocks but was told they don't offer a +5" shock and couldn't offer any alternative options
So I discounted them.
Guess I'll just have to keep,saving for the OME ones bassed on the posts 3-0 so far
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I have a Gwyn lewis challenge suspension kit to replace my Terrafirma pro sport +2" shocks and lowered rear mounts on my 90. I am considering the options regarding suitable +5" shocks.
Gwyn Lewis's old man emu shocks have been developed for the kit but the cost is up there!
The remote reservoir Terrafirma ones are a similar price and with a friend with a nitrogen gas charge kit I could tailor them to suitable pressure if they have a shrieder valve.
Has anyone used either set up or could give other proven options with the Gwyn Lewis challenge kit.
I'm sure Gwyn's OME kit is excellent but before spending £500 on shocks want to look at options.
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Amazing delivery by Magel ordered on Thursday delivered to me Friday morning top service highly recommended. Fitting was straightforward and transformed the steering.
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I just ordered an Adwest 4 bolt from Magel cheaper than any one else I could find though shipping was expensive. Guess if you live near Reading you could call in and get one that would be the cheapest option as far as a new unit goes.
Hopefully like those here that have found it a straightforward swap for a six bolt I will too fingers crossed.
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Fitted my Ductch loom and will include below some typically useful information emailed to me from Martin for those with pre defender 90's and 110's he writes
Aha, you seem to have an older type, a pre-Defender so to say?
The connector you are looking for is inside the black bowl. Just unscrew the 3 screws on the bezel (the metal ring holding the glass of the headlight) and you will be able to take the whole unit out.
Taking the old connector out and replacing it for the new one is a tad fiddly, you’ll have to take the 3 flag receptacles out of the connector housing which can be done with a very small screwdriver. (at the front of the connector there’s a small opening above the flag to release it from the housing)
When they are all out, you can put them one by one through the hole in the black bowl. If you are keen on having the grommet back in place (which is recommended) you can cut it open with a sharp blade, place the wires in and as soon as you place it back in its hole i twill stay closed. Don’t worry about water tightness, that’s not an issue here.
Don’t hesitate to ask when in doubt, we’re open tomorrow as well so I’ll be able to help you before the weekend starts.
Ofcourse a scream from delight of achieved succes is welcome too. J
Met vriendelijke groet, best regards,
Martin de Keizer.
As you can see Martin is very good at explaining things and both he and Liz have been most helpful so I am a satisfied customer,
I'm sure the cheaper options available are fine but for me the technical support and quality of the kit was worth the expense.
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Thanks 10mm o/d 7mm I/d is the size and I ordered off the link above, was thinking the internal ones would be stronger but would also restrict air flow a little, I'll see how these hold up in the field have ordered a couple just in case more splits appear
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May try cutting and re joining, any recommendations for a suitable hose joiner?
Found a reasonably cheep replacement but would be good to fix this one as a spare.
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The hose has a push in connection at the compressor but knowing arb it is their own fitment as it is smaller than the standard compressor fittings I may have a go at removing the fittings and sourcing a hose to fit them on as don't reall want to pay for a full replacement pump up kit if I don't have to.
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Hi all, just got my ARB pump up hose out to check and discovered it has a small split (5mm or so long) in the Orange pipe. Is there a way to repair this? Is it possible just to buy a replacement hose ? Is there a better quality hose available with the arb fitting?
Thanks in advance.
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Just ordered a Dutch wiring kit but think a few watchers on here must have brought one as they have run out, apparently they are making more kits this weekend so hopefully mine will be in the post soon.
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54.49 euros for landreiziger headlight loom deliverered
£46.99 for the rayneauto one delivered (that one has front spotlight loom and relay)
Looking at various Landy forums and speaking to suppliers it is apparent that All headlights are made to meet regulations and
That while LED headlights offer brighter whiter light the updated wipac svx headlights with improved loom and good quality H4 bulbs would offer similar range illumination and the money not spent on LED headlights could be put towards a good LED light bar that would
Give much better illumination than regulated headlights.
I read on the AULRO website of one chap who was considering returning his Land Rover headlights to the SVX style ones to keep it more original and he thought the light from his LED headlights was only marginally better than his SVX ones. Lots of offers were made to buy his LED ones but he was putting them on another Landrover he owned.
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I ended up fitting a MANN W940/24 filter which apparently has an inner collar that retains two thirds of the oil when engine is turned off
It took a bit of phoning round and finally got the answer from a technician at MANN.
I have since learned MAHLE have an equivalent filter sorry don't know the part number.
Looks like I'll get a little bit of spillage but at least not a full filters worth when I next do an oil change.
I like the idea of the dry sump system but guess that's a lot more pocket money
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Thanks unfortunately not on fire fox so went by long search through photos as to correct part and thought it looks properly made, I have emailed them to ask for price including delivery to compare with the other one I mentioned above cost wise. Guess Chinese one would need relays checking atleast maybe, so sticking with European ones for piece of mind.
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Thanks, Well that proves I couldn't read it haven't even got the right language! I just went from what the Ausie guy said on the AULRO forum to me it's all just double Dutch ha ha.
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I Have seen some great threads on here about improving the headlight wiring but has any one used either of the kits from the companies listed here.
I also see he does a kit for roof mounted lights and also sells them on eBay.
I also found another kit via Australian Land Rover forum for a company in Norway! Though he didn't put a link so has taken me a while to find it.
https://shop.landreiziger.nl/lichtversterker-kabelboom-met-relais.html
(well I think that's the kit as I don't Understand the Norwegian written word any translators here?)
My 90 is pre 300 tdi and has a petrol engine so I guess a little bit of modification of the loom may be necessary but that is favourable to making a complete one of my own.
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Fitted the Mocal filter relocation plate today and the only place the filter head could go was on the top of the chassis on the near side. This means the filter will now be upside down as the thread on the plate is pointing up.
I brought a Mahle OC261 filter but can't find out any where if it has a no return valve. Have read lots of blogs and technical features and the consensus seams to be a non return valve is a good idea when the filter is fitted upside down.
Does anyone have any recommendations of a suitable filter ?
I have read a useful blog where a guy says when changing upside down filters on planes and cars he has learnt if you drill a small hole in top of the filter the pressure is relieved and the oil drains back in to the sump making it less messy to remove when replacing.
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Thanks Team Idris pretty much what I thought but wanted to make sure so much appreciated, time to get my overalls on.
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My 90 has done extremely low miles since V8 installed so oil is clear I have just got a Mocal remote and was wondering how much oil I would loose swapping the filter without draining the sump first, I figure about a filters worth or am I going to make a mess of the driveway? What is best way to pre charge the longer pipes and filter or should I just fit it turn the engine a couple of times and check the dip stick?
Never fitted one before but as my filter has a dent from diff hitting it thought it would be a good idea.
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Ok found someone to help with welding but after speaking to Malcolm at whitbread I have more questions than answers though he was extremely informative and helpful.
I am considering the internal external cage option but another idea is to convert my CSW to a truck cab and fit a truck cab cage.
I have read some pros and cons of converting to truck cab such as lack of storage space verses fast warm up time. Less chances of leaks with truck cab ha ha a land rover without leaks sounds to good to be true. Unable to move seat so much or difficult to fit after market seats.
What I am weighing up is giving up some usable dry space in the back and having to get a roll cage that makes rear seats impossible to use for MSA spec one. Keeping CSW top will require more tubing and thus weight and cost to protect the outside.
What are people's thoughts that use truck cabs and CSWs off road ?
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Price and recommendation have me now looking at a whitbread internal external flat pack just need to find a proficient welder up here in NE Scotland to put it together in a proper way.
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Thanks great feedback most informative. Nice to here pros and cons from someone who has both.
It looks like I may be on the hunt for a webasto thermo top c, good to know they do petrol fuelled version.
Seen a webasto on flea bay that has apparently had a full service but will enquire at local agent to see what they cost new.
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Hi guys and girls,
My 90 is a petrol V8 and. Having recently moved to NE Scotland from sunny NZ was thinking a pre heater would be good for me and my land rover as winter draws round. I have looked at webasto thermo top c and like the idea of the engine being warmed up in the early hours, I realise I will need a separate fuel tank for diesel. I also see eberspacher do heaters but mostly ones like the Airtronic that just heat the interior( which would be nice).
I see people on here suggesting using an oil radiator plugged into the mains to warm the interior and defrost the windows which suggest an Airtronic would be an expensive all but second hand option.
What recommendations do you have
Thanks G
P38 4.6hse starter motor bolts
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Thanks I ordered a britool set off ebay yesterday hope it's the right ones if not I'll try links above many thanks