gonewestnz

Hi all just waiting for delivery of a Nuggetstuff airbox. I have a through the wing vent snorkel. Will the standard pipes fit the airbox or do I need any bits from the nuggetstuf pipe replacement kit which I haven't ordered?

It's all wrapped up now if I get a chance I'll have a closer look over weekend to confirm if there is a blue trace. Going to do a bit more tinkering as need to remove my Gwyn Lewis mudflaps to enable me to remove the body mount bolt on Monday. This raises another question does it matter which way the body mount bolt is installed as I feel the nut would be better protected from corrosion tucked behind the Gwyn lewis mud guards and will make future removal easier as won't need to remove the mudflaps each time, not that I will be in a rush to remove the bolts in the future.

Discovered it was purple not black on closer inspection, effected a repair and indeed it was the interior light (passenger door ). Spent day fetling the wing holes and loosening bolts and fighting to fit the snorkel which is done as far as practical before we final fit the cage on Monday (hopefully 😀) Cage test fit went Ok. Been mostly working on my own so pleased with progress.

Thank you Mike, Quite possibly as when drivers door opens interior light comes on but when passenger opens it doesn't. Still concerned about connecting a purple wire to a black wire though.

Just in the process of installing the roll cage onto my Puma truck cab. While cutting hole in front wing I discovered a cable that emerges from the bulk head behind the back of the wing with the hole cutter. The sheath was damaged and the cable broken. Strangely the cable that emerges from the bulkhead is black and thicker than the other side of the cut cable which is very thin purple cable. I traced 300mm up the engine side and stll only found the purple cable. It seams very strange and any help or advice appreciated. I am loathed to attach the purple cable to the black cable but on close inspection this appears to be the only choice. No warnings on Safetydevices instructions re cables and I had to sought their advice re the front out rigger mount which needs the welded tube that the body mount bolt runs through to be cut. They responded same day and said they were aware of the problem but haven't updated the instructions yet. When I cut the second hole I was very careful to avoid the matching cable on the other side.

Has any one made , fitted a side exit exhaust for a Defender Puma (2011) 2.4tdci Prefer one that exits in front of rear wheel to avoid the rear Adrenalin4x4 A frame which the rear exhaust seams very close to. Not sure if this is feasible for the 2.4tdci engine which is perhaps why I cannot find such an exhaust.

Thanks everyone, I'll see what the max I can achieve with the opening. Only slight up hill approach so will aim for 150mm minimum above cab roof when modifying garage opening. I too have waded with water half way up the windscreen in a previous defender and it was exciting to say the least and certainly. Im not likely to find that again unless I move back to NZ which is why Snorkel isn't top of my priorities.

Hi my Defender pick up is evolving and I am considering modifying my garage door to enable me to still secure my 90 when not in use. I do intend to fit a roll cage and snorkel at some stage. Would any one with such fitted be able to measure the height from top of roof to highest point on cage and snorkel. So I can make sure that if I do modify my garage door opening I only have to do it once. Obviously I'll add a bit of wiggle room over and above the measured heights.

Hi I am putting a Gwyn Lewis challenge kit on my Puma truck cab in the near future. Whilst looking at the Fuel filter relocation parts I found the bolts that hold the fuel filter head to the chassis are well and truly stuck. I can see them getting damaged on removal and wonder if anyone knows the bolt size so I can buy two to have on standby when I attempt to remove the filter head.

Thanks Western that’s what I was thinking or rather hoping cheers

I’m planning to mount my winch solenoid behind the offside headlight and airbox on my 2.4tdci 90. The cables would have to pass close to the intercooler pipe. Is this likely to be too hot a route as having looked I can’t see much space for the cables anywhere else?

Just done this, changed the standard windscreen for heated. I sourced the glass through VGS and bought a wiring harness from Dan Padmore. With two people it was relatively easy to remove the screen with out breaking it. We installed the wiring while the screen was out as this made access to the Puma dash fixings easier. we used a length of paracord to reinstall the screen with plenty of washing up liquid on the original windscreen rubber that was in good condition. We managed to keep both pieces of glass in good useable condition.

Hi, has any one fitted extended flares to their Puma ? I am in two minds as to removing the old standard flares completely or just cutting off the outer arch. If removed completely the part that forms part of the inner arch will no longer exist. Is it better to reform this with new material or just utilise the old flares which on mine are not in the best condition so cutting them won’t be an issue.

That is great thank you, my partner was saying she used to have Knot book that she loved but lost it this will make her day.

Had my old 90 converted to a gem V8 by a friend/business but took ages. One thing to consider is if fitting Auto box contact Ashcroft for there controller as is very simple to set up and allows for gearbox modes to be adjusted simply.

Many thanks for the link

Hello is it still possible to get hold of the puma 2.4 workshop manual I've traded in my much modded 1988 90 for a 2011 puma truck cab and would love to be able to keep doing my own servicing.

Oh yes your so right it is a puma my bad as my other one was a ninety everything newer was a Defender in my mind. To get the puma I had to trade my Ninety so it was a day of sadness and Happiness!!

I also drilled a hole as the others have said makes it easier. Never got round to sort the back door lock out that's on my todo list along with sort out low range, get a new battery etc and I thought I'd finished working on it ha ha never!

Thanks, the defender I'm looking at buying is not a Puma though as you mentioned above. It is my understanding the roofs are interchangeable .

Ok I am thinking of buying a 2011 defender 90 truck cab. As I want to make this my daily driver could I swap the 1988 CSW roof onto the 2011 defender and put the Truck cab from the 2011 defender onto my 1988 Ninety? The paint won't match but apart from that are there any other potential issues I may come up against ? Thanks as always.

I currently have a CSW roof (with windows) and have been offered van sides by the guy who is going to build my cage. I originally wanted a truck cab roof but locating one in NE Scotland seams impossible after months of trying. I like the CSW roof for visibility but guess the glass could be at risk. Should I go for the van sides, keep searching for a truck cab or just use what I have all advise appreciated. Also changing roof probably changes road tax class if so what would be the cheapest option as the more money I save on tax the more I can put back into my landy!

On doing the drivers side that was supposed to be straightforward I had an issue as the piece the barrel locates into was plastic unlike the passenger side which was metal and as I went to undo the screw it fell apart. Has anyone an idea whee to get the piece the barrel locates and locks into. As always with my 90 the simplest of jobs becomes a mission.

Britool sockets arrived today but the Allen keys don't pull out so I still don't have a socket to undo the bolts on my starter. Not sure next move as the links above look the same design as britool ones I have. Any constructive suggestions greatly appreciated

I have also drilled a hole and was a simple operation to replace the barrel. I have always had issues with my 1988 90 not opening with the key on the passenger side and despite lots of wd40 and a new lock barrel this is still an issue. It appears the rod that connects to the interior door lifter button is too slack as if I hold the rod towards the lock everything works as it should but with the door panel back on and all trim panels in correct position the key can not turn move the rod at all. I have looked at the button itself and it doesn't have any greater slack than the drivers side in the hole the rod passes through. Any suggestions to resolve the problem before I attempt to bend the rod a bit? Cheers