[Front propshaft]

early range rover did have the prop with the splines to the diff but from about 1980's it was fitted splines at the transfere box this was hilighted with vibration issues

[Adding extra HP to RRC]

yes you guessed it slight stretch of the imagination i bought a ex tvr ecu and was told it was a 300 bhp ecu but as it was from a tvr i tried it and found a vast improvment over the standard ecu but with the mods i have done it does only rearly equate to @200bhp if i was lucky.

now what has me puzzeled from the replys is the mega squirt system i have not seen one so cannot rearly comment on them but why are they better than 14cux? and why dose the garage i work at sell somany 14 cux ecu and looms to people rather than just engines? what are the upside issues of 14 cux compared to mega squirt?

of and buy the way it is running a 4.2 cam

[Adding extra HP to RRC]

bolting bits on to a worn engine will be a recipe for engine problems though the V8 will take quite a lot of abuse when in a worn state you will not rearly benefit form the addons due to engine wear.(classic point my dad had a 110 3.5 v8 which i had moded over the years but it was getting hard to start when cold did a comp test found it only had 55 psi on the cyclinders replaced the engine standard then added the mods back big improvments were made and the economey when up aswell)

starting on the engine if it has a rearly good bottom end i would be inclined to decoke and relap the valves if you can afford newer heads fit the latter type as they have the smaller cc heads better power even some porting won't go a mis flowing the the inlet manifold and increasing the trumpet size to allow more air in is good even a new plenum top with a bigger throttle butter fly as well tubbular manifolds k&n kenlowe fans ecu chipped mine is running close to 300 but is mostly down to a 300 bhp chip in the ecu and the bonus is a steady 70 run 22.5 mpg 17@town

[noisy bottom end]

have a p38 4.6 with 111.000 on the clock.when you start it in the mornings you get a knocking from the bottom end of the engine.thought the cats were knackered but they are fine.have been told it could be crank shells.can anybody advise me if this is a common problem on rangies and are they easy to do.also can they be accesed with engine in car.thanks

early engines did have a problem with piston slap and knocking though i mite be inclined to go for a loose linner

[hello]

http://www.album2.com/photos.php?action=se...2db2b0e3e1329f7 try this to wet your appetites and will take more soon thanks for the welcome guys

they were a set of adpters from simmonites

[Sump Gasket]

the sump gasket on the thor engines is a rubber affair with little steel colars where the bolts pass through as the pan is alloy to stop it being over tightened and leak i usualy when replacing apply a thin smear of silicone sealant to aid the sealing

[New member looking to buy]

Hi guys, thought i'd join up as it looked a good place to get some info before making a purchase.

I currently drive an '03 M3 but fancy a change, been looking at an overfinch 580s. Never owned anything in the way of 4x4 before so any helpful hints or things to look out for would be appreciated.

totaly different ball game in respect to performance handling and economey! servicing stays pretty much as per the factory manual apart from that it is a pretty sound motor as it is a reworked original engine just bored out reworked suspension and brakes.

factors to consider are cost of brakes if they are majorly uprated as overfinch are quite hard to obtain parts from i have been told other wise it is gen or very good aftermarket items

[Classic Brake Servo]

I've got an 82 Rangie with the fat brake servo. Every so often the brakes go hard and I lose servo assistance - not ideal! As the old fat servos are over £300, I was thinking of changing over to the later slim, pan type servo. Does anyone know if this is a simple swap or will modifications have to be made?

For instance, will the brake pipe connections reach?

Will the servo bolt onto the existing pedal box?

Or am I missing the point entirely and another problem is at fault?!!!

Thanks

is the vac pipe ok and the valve into the servo as they fail if not then it could be the servo

you have a pm

[Land Rover rebootstrapping alarms]

as long as the car is in a unlocked state and starts then remove the ignition key and close the door insert key into lock turn to lock and press the lock button on the fob then turn to unlock and press the lock button then press the remote and that should have resynchronised the key if not repeat

[Rotor arm removal]

as you have pulled it quite well are the bob weights still connected and the rotor arm twist back when released if not then it will need overhauling also

top tip when you change the rotor arm drip some oil down the shaft to lubricate the base plate of the dissy should be done every 12 months

[Remote Key Programming]

there is no reset procedure and if you disconnect the alarm when it is connected it stays in the state it was when it was disconnected. would suggest a new alarm unit or asecound hand one with a remote that works and the correct fequency for malta which i think is uk 433mhz

[Fuel Pump]

Simmer down lads, Thanks for all the good advice. I'm going to take the top off the defender tank in the morning but i'm sure its only the fuel gauge actuator arm thats in there and not a pump. The engine i took out had a mechanical pump. I will see if there is any way i can fit the rangie pump on it safely.

I've had a look at the ebay defender pump and think its bloody expensive..£60.00 yea but a ton..come on.Unless i'm being tight and this is the right price..

I think i've got a good idea whats required now but the accident cut off thing bothers me. How do i sort this out..has the rangie ECU already got this sorted or do i have to fit something else to cut the pumps in a crash. If the ECU does it hows it all wired to the pumps.

You'll be fed up with me soon i'm sure

you can get an interia switch from a land rover dealer or a breaker and connect it into the earth circut of the fuel pump then in the event of an accident it will kill the earth and the pump will stop simple

[Fuel Pump]

So facet make a high-pressure red top now, fair enough that should indeed work - but saying "use a facet red top" is misleading as the majority that turn up are low-pressure carb type ones, they flow enough as a feed pump (it's what I'm using on the 4.6 in fact) but do not provide enough pressure for an EFI setup.

Both my fuel pumps are on relays controlled by the ECU rather than an inertia switch, if the engine stops turning the ECU turns the pumps off after 2 secs. I don't see correct fuel pump wiring as "more problems", being really rough about it you could run both pumps from the same relay.

Oh and have you tried punctuation and paragraphs? I hear they make it easier to read things and understand what the flip you're on about

you still need to have an interia switch in the system in the event of a collision or you roll and the engine keeps running you being mr smart arse are going to be able to switch of the iginition when you are knocked out? didn't think so! and this is why the car industry fits them or now has them linked into the srs ecu(air bag system)

so a little bit i should have added to my original post please bear with me as i am dyslexic and spelling and typing and sentence structure are not my strong points sorry but i feel that digs in this way are somtimes uncalled for and that it is either a dig for not telling or a dig for telling so now i wait untill moaned at

[Advice on 2.5 dse purchase]

alot of diesels have been chipped either way they can be good chips or bad ones the manual is shocking and if you tow with it it is underpowered as well mostthat are for sale will have a few electrical problems as well worth getting one tested and inspected as well before handing over the money

[Fuel Pump]

seems a lot of ideas and quite a bit of confusion i recently fitted a 3.9 hot wire system to a ford pop dragster and used a hi pressure pump which was a facet red top pump which has been poo poo'd as not man enough well thats odd a the car in question went do the pod strip witha sub 14 sec and running a standard injection system with no missifre problems or fuel starvation yes it has a fuel return to the tank and is used every other day a his normal car going down the slave pump to prime and then hi pressure will lead to more problems in the event of an accident as both will need to be on the inertia switch circut as if one fails more time is needed to check which has failed so me personal i would stick with the one pump approach

[gas conversion]

Hi, Does anyone have info on best lpg set up for rangerover L322...prices...etc...???

Cheers

i have just recently investigated this for a couple of my customers the system has tobe sequential and you can only have a donnut tank in the spare wheel well and the suspension pump has tobe relocated. prices vary considerable but a as a rule the prices vary from around £2500 - £3000 depending on the system the best price i have been able to offer is £2550 all in takes three days

[Remote Key Programming]

Hi,

I'm not sure if I have understood you correctly. You have started from process 5 correct? Process 5 is actually the starting point. I think that yours and mine are the same, if they are not can you please exlain again because I can't see the difference. I would like to thank you for your time and patience.

Regards,

Victor

1,ignition on

2,ignition off

3,lock doors

4,unlock doors

5,release bonnet switch,

6,ignition on

7ignition off

8,horn sounds

9,press remote untill led flashes if you have one remote pres this remote again to finish remote programing

have an asitant press the bonnet switch untill required to release it

[Fuel Pump]

the facet red top is the pump to use

[V8 3.5 carb 175CD Zenith]

Hi Guys,

I am again looking for a bit of advice/direction.

I have just fitted a standard rover manifold and Zenith carbs to my V8.

I just wondering how to tune them. I dont see any adjustment screws or knobs that i could fiddle with. It has a plastic housing on one side of each carb for temperature compensation. What does this do!

The Haynes that i have doesnt offer any further insight.

The engine starts first time when warm but from cold needs a bit of encouragement. Full choke isnt great. No choke w no throttle is no better. Half choke and pumping the throttle is again not foolproof. No choke is tempermental.

Once the engine is warm, although starts easily is sluggish as if too much/not enough feul.

As you can see needs a bit of fiddling. Any ideas.

I am fairly sure that the engine is in good state of tune but just needs abit of tweeking. The LR came from the uk which is quite a bit colder than were i come from and it has been my experience that mixture/jetting needs to be leaned out.

I had originally had the super duper edelbrock carb and manifold fitted and experienced none of these problems.

I know that i may have made a step backward but i hope to sell engine(running nicely!!) and carb/manifold seperately and hopefully make more than both fitted together.

I also gave carbs a bit of a clean before fitting and the diaphrams look good.

I also understand that the SUs are a better carb but i have to try and make the best of what i got here.

Any thoughts/pointers would be great.

Thanks again.

you need a carb adjuster kit and a carb balancer to check the air flow through each carb as the adjustments are do internaly on the carb check the diagphrams are ok if unsure replace any way disconnect balance linkage while tunning then adjust

[Remote Key Programming]

Hi,

Its a November 1994 classic. The programme is as follow

1. Ignition OFF

2. Doors unlocked

3. Bonnet Up (open bonnet)

4. Hold bonnet button down……Next sequence must be completed within 8 seconds.

5. Switch Ignition ON

6. Switch Ignition OFF

7. Lock Doors

8. Unlock Doors

9. Release bonnet button

10. Switch Ignition ON

11. Switch Ignition OFF

If operation is correct the Horn will go on and LED will Flash.

Next sequence must be computed within 2 minutes.

Hold button on remote control down (ON) until LED Flushes.

Any other suggestions, please I need help! Thanks

Victor

it should be ignition on then off lock doors unlock doors release bonnet switch then igintion on then off horn sounds then press remote untill led flashs then press other remote if you only have one then program it twice to clear other remotes

[sedimentor help]

there is a 10/11 mm bolt on the top of the housing then you can remove the bowl and clean it

[Wobbly idle, timing?]

It's a flapper. It was only happy at around 20-25 degrees BTDC when I first put it back together. I moved it round one tooth and was then able to set it to 8 degrees. It's bloody close so I think I'll try the 12 degree theory tomorrow if I have time. I'll let you know how it goes.

Cheers for the thoughts.

sounds like you are out one tooth i would also clean the throttle pot and reset the throttle switch as well

[3.5 V8 stalling]

The fuel pump is mounted at the back of the land rover where the tank is, so this isnt getting hot. I havnt checked the spark whilst the problem is occuring actually. If the spark is bad, then would this help to indicate the signal amp as the problem? Thanks...

as the pump is a electrical pump which has moving parts when it is worn or old it can overheat and seize very coman on all models old and new

[Wobbly idle, timing?]

Cheers Bowie69. When I was fiddling with the timing, before I obtained the light, the more I advanced it the better it got. The engine ran faster and faster. It was fun but I had to abort as I didn't have a damn clue what I was doing I then sensibly bought the light and set it to 8 degrees BTDC... I will try the 12 degrees tomorrow though as I'm sure the more the timing was advanced the better the symptoms got.

Cheers also RangeyRover. I would love to megajolt the old girl in the future but for now I'd like to get my head around the basic original system...! It's a bloody steep learning curve!

you may have the dissy out one tooth is it a hotwire system or flapper?

[v8 rebuild]

if you are fitting the composite gaskets which heads are you fitting the original 4.0 heads with the small combustion chambers or the old type with large chambers fitting the comp to the old type heads will lower the comp ration and tin to the latter type will increase the comp ratio so gives you a few iother opyons as well