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Posts posted by vougese39
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manifold gasket,blown turbo hose or a delaminated hose or carp on the drive belt
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has the cable fell out of the arm on the gearbox? no grinding noise at idle? is there any noise from the transmission?
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i have got it down to 4 hours in and out and i always do the heater "O" rings at the same time as a matter of course now
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the serpentine drive system is a better setup means a lot less noise from the belts and a better oil pump in the front cover to convert a old spec engine to a serp set up you eill need the front cover and all the brackets and alternator,pas pump and water pump as well
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as with most things land rover aim for a late box as this will have any mods that land rover did before stopping making them but yes a td5 box from 99 to 03 are all the same. the v8 is a different ratios so will not drive too well
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if it has ace then replace with new air springs if you go to p38 spares on ebay he sells the arnott life time warranty air bags for £199 for the pair
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fill the rad up first then fill the tower up when fluid leaks from the rad hole fit bung then start as sson as coolant leaks from the tower fit bung leave rad cap off and allow to run up to temp see how it goes
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when you bleed the brakes did the fluid get too low? as you could also have drawn air into the booster unit
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for the time and hassel fit the three as nine times out of ten the others fail withing a few weeks of each other.
get the ecu fault read the early p38a could have the blend motors recalibrated but the 2000 on models it was not and option
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well from that mpg figure i would think the engine is well worn i recently built one for one of my customers a 4.6 10:4.1 comp engine and he now gets 24 mpg on petrol and gas and the ecu is stnadard! is it multi point gas or mono have seen a few monos on a d2 which is scarey
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apart from drilled and filled in holes the only difference is a few police spec setting in the ecus for lights apart from that i think everything else is normal
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thanks for the help guys have pressure tested the system found a irratic .5-4.0 bar fluctuation when cranking so suspect the fuel pump so will try a new unit
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finding a diesel spec auto will be hard and in good condition also you will need to have the mainshaft changed in the transfere box and the preloads adjusted ashcrofts quoted me £1300 for the box plus vat for outright sale then you are going to need the selsctor and the cable also the brackets new thrust washers for the crank as in a auto it need zero crank end float.
oil cooler change of rad as well is a big job is your's a edc spec if not the auto will be a let down compared to the manual
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Faulty RST will normally just make the engine 'stall' as you come to a halt at lights etc
It rarely causes a total loss of engine or misfire as its a secondary input
Nige
as the chap has stated he is not getting a missfire!
the reason for this i had one fail and spike the ecu only when driving and it opened the stepper and caused it to stall and over rev but as the guy has not said when it is happening either on accerleration or over run we will have to wait for more info
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has the ecu been read, also the as said more info could be also the speed transducer failed
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don't know as i don't have a gauge but the pump has been substituted with a new unit and would not start at another garage
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i have a customer td5 which cut out on him been to loads of garages then i have been called to it ecu full of sensor faults which is because nobody has a clue what they were doing with it.
cleared the faults retried no starting.
removed the engine harnes and loom cleaned all the contatcs and checked for broken wires all ok refitted tested ecu pulse at injectors found 3,4 not getting a signal swapped the ecu with a good unit coded in and injector codes retested pulse at all injectors still non start.
pump working have flow through the head as i removed the return pipe at the cooler and it pulses out ok. replaced the fpr as it was noisy and there was a gurgling noise in the head have replaced this all is now quiet.
fly wheel has been replaced that is ok and the crank sensor is new ohm tested sensor it is in tollerence.
customer has started it on easy start and it runs so can discount jumped timing chain.
if i disconnect as sensors all come up as fauty clear faults all is ok but non start diagnostic is t4.
any help would be great cheers stuart
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you will have to fit the lt230 transfere box to gain the overdrive as it cannot mate to a bw transfere box.
have you looked at changing the diff ratios?
is the motor an original 300tdi factory car or converted?
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get the ecu read as it will register the faults
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been done that is the zulu spec motor from je also know a guy with a classic and he fitted the engine in major cutting to the baulk head repositioning the steering box and new steering bars major upgrade of the brakes if it is a manual no good engine too powerfull for it auto needs to be new or reconed also an adptor plate made can be done plenty of work not for the faint harted
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spider unit
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if you refer to the sanp on solus pro if it is uptodate possible but i think they have only just sorted the ecu reader for efi other wise a trip to a specalist or a dealer
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not a easy job when on a 2 post ramp let alone on the floor on axle stands just done a v6 engine swap on a guys drive way never again!
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just one to throw in here guys i have the full blown testbook and went and had a talk to a guy about the hawkeye it is a lesser version of the testbook but without a lot of the testbook computing power it is really a code clear and go with a few options on sensor reading as it is made by omitec who make testbook they really want you to pay the full £3,500 +vat for the testbook
and omitec do not supply the diagnostic unit for the 2005/6 land rovers onwards which they are stuggling to achive even a basic diag kit to allow diagnostics
Steering Box bleed V8
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
firstly leave the bleednipple closed and just start the engine and allow the pas fluid to flow through the system then slowly turn from lock to lock you will feel the air as the steering tightens up do not rev leave at idle.
if it still feels dead spotted then leave the wheel straight ahead and open the nipple and allow some out top up and retry the lock to lock it should be ok then