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WesBrooks

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Posts posted by WesBrooks

  1. Morning all,

    Are these sensors normally closed or open? Normally open would be easier to wire, but closed (opening when overtemp/diff locked etc) would be better from a safety sense as a wiring fault would give a false alarm rather than cover a fault.

    I'm interested in:

    Coolant over temperature

    Oil over temperature

    Gearbox oil over temperature

    Transfer box over temperature

    Transfer box diff locked

    Fuel low

    According to haynes these are all close on fault/locked but wanted to be sure. Any recommendations for places to buy the over temp senders set at different values? Can't check the sensors at the moment, but will do before I wire the loom.

    Base vehicle was a 95 discovery V8i.

  2. Thanks for the feedback so far. The original threads have been really useful for an introduction and reinforcing the need to be methodical and thorough. I just wanted to see how things have been moving along since the threads went a bit quiet. I think the 2009/2010 area was about the same time petrol got really expensive!

  3. Afternoon all,

    Is the community preferred route still the tried and tested MS1 + EDIS-8? Just read through the mahoosive 48 page saga thread and have flashed through bits of some of the other threads on the pinned FAQ post. Not much activity on some of those threads since 2009/2010.

    There were a few mentions of people going to try out MS2 and I can see an MS3 kit for in the 'for sale' forum so some must have tried that. I'd be especially interested to see if anyone has experience of swapping from MS1 to MS2, or MS2 to MS3 etc.

    I completely understand that many of the features of for instance the MS3 are almost beyond 'marginal gains' for the RV8s but thought/hoped that some of the extra ECU space and hardware development may have been diverted to making the systems easier to setup, more capable of autotuning, more reliable etc...

    As it happens cost could see me starting on MS1 or MS2 anyway and planning MS3 later! If that's in mind though I may wire my loom slightly differently to make allowances for sensors or devices I'd like to use on a later ECU upgrade.

    Cheers,

    Wes.

  4. I ran bfg km2 285/75x16 on my previous 110 they were on 8" modular rims (now on our 90) the truck had a 2" lift. I never had any issues the occasional rub on full articulation. I liked them, our current 110 is on 255's if I'm honest I prefer the 285's. My ibex is on 35x12.50 but I can see me dropping to 285's when it finally makes it to the road.

    Mike

    Interesting to here you thinking about dropping down to the 33". Any reasons other than gearing and potential drive train issues? Is the ibex based on a Disco too? ET0 modulars?

  5. Without asking for people to give away little tricks they have used to protect their trucks are there good best practice guides available?

    Other than the obvious nothing expensive on display, left in good places where possible is it simply good alarm, hidden tracker (these aren't cheap for a Thatcham one!), and obvious mechanical locking like steering or gear lever locks?

  6. How standard is standard to you ?

    I use HELLA headlight units IMO much much superior to anything Wipac make

    Fair point I probably don't mean standard as in OEM. The Crystals have been recommended and these have the clear lens and shaped reflector design rather than the patterned lens you see on older headlights. I guess a better way of asking the original question is are the clear lens head lights that much better than the patterned lenses, or is it more an aesthetic thing?

  7. The loom will be a ground up custom loom. I'll be over sizing the cabling to avoid significant voltage drop and double check the calculation to ensure voltage drop is less than 3% as per: http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html

    Any direct comparisons between the standard style of optics and the Crystals with the same bulbs in both? I'm sure I'd be happy with the Crystals, just seeing if it's worth paying more to get them and the set-up in the original link rather than just using the originals. If I can't find an all in solution with the crystals a guess the sensible thing would be start with the kit above and upgrade later or if struggling.

    I'll double check the helper/leveller systems but suspect the cost may be significantly more. If I'm wrong I completely agree about it being the better solution.

    Didn't want to open a can of worms regarding legalities of lighting and bulb strength but you'd be surprised how many people are running around with lights that are not road legal, just thought it worth a mention. I have a pair of stainless steel 8 inch Wipac spots on the front of mine with 100W halogens, wired through a relay and the main beam circuit of course so that they go out on dip

    Sorry Farmerfred, didn't mean to imply that you were Trolling, just replying quick before anyone took the thread down that hole!

  8. Thanks for the warning. Wipac Crystals are a reflector and lens, the halogen I'm considering would be a road legal 55/60W standard halogen bulb.

    I'm aware of the lumen limits and requirements for using HID/high lumen LEDs in type approved applications. I don't want to discuss LED & HID here as that is a can of worms for car modifying enthusiasts.

    The levelling system I'm referring to is a driver controlled system normally controlled by the 4 position 0-1-2-3 switch on the dash generally used to dip low beam headlight angle to correct for heavy loads in the back or towing.

  9. Hi All,

    I would like to implement the electrically levelling lights as per the defenders on my project. Wiring looks simple and I've seen a few all in (bowls, frames, lights, motor) kits such as http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/408645/0/headlamp_self_leveling_rhd_defender

    I was looking to run the Wipac Crystals following recommendations on here. Is there much difference in use between them and lights in the link? I guess most people are comparing new to old?

    Does any one know of someone selling complete sets like the one above with the crystals?

    I'm creating a custom loom for my truck so there will be no problem with voltage drop to the lights. I will be running halogens rather than HID.

    Thanks.

  10. Hi,

    I've got a cruise control unit from a donor '95 Discovery V8i that I plan to reuse on my project. Most of the inputs and outputs are obvious from the haynes manual but not sure about the speed signal as it comes from the instrument pack in the dash. Is this just the speed signal from the sensor relayed through the dash or is there more to it?

    The original dash is not being reused. If I could simply split the signal from the sensor to a speedo and the cruise control that's be great! I'm planning to bench test the system using an Arduino to fake the appropriate signals.

    Thanks.

  11. Yeah, looks like the electronic box will be one of the many projects shelved for later. Can't see any realistic way around the compushift box, although a compushifted 24 does sound very nice!

    Will the changes in the sump on the Thor 4.0 and 4.6 mean I would need to change the bell housing on the '95 ZF4H22 D1 3.9 V8i box? ...or will my 3.9 sump fit the Thor engines?

  12. Looks like the 24 box is 15mm longer and would require a shorter rear prop. That wouldn't effect my decisions too much.

    http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f40/help-range-rover-4hp24-into-02-discovery-119978/

    Longer output shaft on the 24's looks like it could be a fuss to sort though...

    Edit:

    Late 24s are the same length. Presuming this is those mated to 4.6 Thor lumps?

    http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/42895-zf4hp22-swap-zf4hp24.html

  13. Hi All,

    Researching this in spare time but wanted to check my understanding. Are the following statements accurate?

    LT230 be fitted in place of the Borg Warner transfer box when fitting gearboxes from classics/p38s onto '95 D1 V8i chassis. Same mounts on the gearboxes throughout?

    The 3.9 14CUX and 4.0 GEMs engines run on the same design of gearbox bell housings.

    The 4.6 Gems had the Big torque converter with a different bell housing on the auto gearbox.

    The 4.0 and 4.6 Thor had alloy sumps which removed the inspection plate on the 3.9 and GEMs engines. This also changed some details on the gearbox bell housings.

    ZF4HP24 are tougher than the ZF4HP22 other than possibly needing bell housing swaps are the same thing.

    ZF4HP22/24EH are electronically controlled and would require something like compushift to run.

    Thanks for your help.

  14. Just found this thread:

    http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/230666-Land-rover-200tdi-starter-motor-broke

    Gives the following specs:

    Main winding 0.145 - 0.165 ohms
    Hold winding 0.46 - 0.56 ohms

    Both of these are used to begin with for a fraction of a second, then the holding only. This means Inrush current will be based on a resistance of 0.110 ohms, and a main current through the 0.46 Ohms. So inrush of 109A settling to 26A.

    60A Fuse looks about right then!

    Solenoid on the 3.9 V8i and 200tdi similar?

  15. Afternoon all,

    Has anyone got any details about the specified resistance of the solenoid coil? I think it has two coils. One that is initially used and a second while it is being held in?

    The Discovery's loom diagram in the Haynes manual doesn't show any fuses after the main 60A link fuse. Between the terminal and the starter case I read around 1.2Ohm, between the terminal and the starter power outlput form the terminal the resitance is as little as 0.5 ohms. At these low resistances I have little confidence in my Clarke Multimeter, and of course the soundness of the connection between my probes and the terminal & starter body.

    Planning a loom and I'd rather not just copy what Land Rover did for the Discovery. At 1.2 ohm for example I'd predict a constant current of around 10A, and so would be inclined to have a 20A fuse in line so the cable CSA can be reduced while still maintaining safety.

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