WesBrooks
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Posts posted by WesBrooks
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Has someone got figures for the flow rates of the standard pump at their working pressure? My engine is '95 serpentine belt.
Thanks,
Wesley.
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Thanks for the link. I'd just emailled them to see if I'd understood their pricing right and asked a few other questions. As the original vehicle had 140,000 on the clock I'm assuming the autobox is likely to be tired anyway. It all boils down to how long I can hold off getting it on the road to save many pennies!
Indeed given the risk of damage if the hand brake is applied while the vehicle is mving....
Another thing for me to read up on!
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Doesn't look like there is much between the D1 and D2 for economy and if anything it favours the D1. Also interesting is there isn't much betwen the manuals and autos.
Model Urban Extra Urban Combined
1 12.4 22.8 17.3
2 12.3 21.6 16.9
If anything the D1 is better on economy, but I realise the D2 also has a significantly revised engine inlet, ignition & ECU, and longer body rendering comparing the figures next to useless to get an idea of the relative performances of the gearboxes!
I'll service (oil and filter, rather than rebuild) what I've got and read more into what could be done to increase the strength of the D2 box to P38 standards.
Thanks for the information. Food for thought!
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...hmm electronics issues aside it looks like the output into the transfer box is different. Think the P38 had some sort of fluid centre diff, rather than mechanical with locker.
Doesn't sound like the effort would be worth the hassle.
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Park while transfer box is in neutral is a good shout, will do.
I'm guessing the P38 box isn't a straight swap? Mounts in the same place with a different prop or would I have to weld mounts on? P38 is the same/similar suspension geometry as the D2 isn't it?
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For example the LR boxes in the disco and RRC lock up only in 4th over about 45/50mph I think it is. Some of the more modern boxes will lock up the TC in other situations now to save fuel.
Interesting. I think some of the newer ZF boxes had electronic controls for gear shift? Any idea if the torque converter lock up can be forced either electronically or physically?
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No fluid? Good way to damage the box!! You were probably okay running around the shop. Never move any distance in neutral with the engine off though. The oil pump is powered from the input shaft and does not work with the engine off.
It has got no engine, wiring loom, drivers seat...
Appreciate the warning but in this case other than perhaps a long term corrosion risk I don't think it will cause any damage being pushed in and out of my garage. Need to service it at somepoint and it was leaking so dropped the oil.
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Hi All,
Is neutral in the auto boxes not quite as neutral as a manual?
Been pushing the project in and out of the garage with auto in neutral. Was surprised that things didn't get easier when most of the body was removed. Had a moment of clarity and thought to knock the transfer box into neutral and now find it much easier! The autobox is currently drained of fluid, just wanted to be sure that the difficult push into the garage wasn't anything to worry about - and just me being a bit embarrassingly clueless on autos.
If this is normal what causes the drag? Presuming it's the wheels that are seeing the drag and not also the engine?
Why I'm on the topic if your going downhill in 1, 2, or 3 can the vehicle cause the torque converter to slip reducing engine braking or does it fully lock up? So compaired to a manual when rolling down hill it might roll a little easier initially due to torque converter slip but lock up once the engine speed builds up?
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Ahh ok.
Found this on electrolysis:
So in this example the rust is removed from the negative part of the the cell. This process also removes the paint, which would leave the newly clean metal surface open to atmospheric corrosion.
So voltage applied and the posative side is sacrafised and the negative cleaned. Voltage off and the newly cleaned metal is vunerable and rusts.
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I thought negative earth had better corrosion resistance due to the electrolitic reactions corrowing the wiring rather than the chassis? Have you got any links on the positive earth being better for corrosion resistance?
...seen a few mentions about corosion around where wires went though bulkheads with poor insulators causing corrosion on the bulkhead. I'll add links to this later and others as I find them.
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Appollogies, found a few threads on retrofit of ABS. Question about the simplicity of fitting the ABS sensors while overhauling axles still stands.
Retrofit of a P38 ABS/TC system is fiesable, but after thought the floors in this system mean time, effort and money would be better aimed at lockers rather than TC for off road capability. Reading the sensors just for information is a consideration still. Could be used for low tyre pressure warning as wellas the centre diff warning.
Thanks.
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Hi All,
Firstly what is the performance like of the ABS system that is fitted to the discovery 1? I've a basic V8i that didn't have ABS. I'm likely to be performing a chassis swap before the vehicle is road worthy, and so thought retrofit might be worth giving a few moments of consideration? I'm already having to rework the loom, so wiring considerations aren't too concerning.
I'm thinking this would be a nice option to have when on motorway runs and may also go some way to correct for brake balance issues if the front and rear axle weights are a bit different to what they were with the old disco body.
Secondly I will be overhaulling the axles at some point as the front swivels are heavily corroded. I'm considering rebuilding them with the ABS sensors so I can have the option of detecting wheel slip and warn of excessive centre diff use. Is it simply a matter of ordering ABS overhaul kits for the front and rear and perhaps a couple of brackets and sensors or is there more difference between the ABS and non ABS axles?
Thanks,
Wesley.
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Morning All,
In a forum post I read recently (may not have been this forum - I can't find it!) the original poster discussed their work towards re-wiring a project vehicle. They'd decided to use dedicated earth leads rather than using the chassis and other posters complimented this citing reduced corrosion as a good reason for doing this.
Are some of the early Land Rovers positive earth or is there a general concern that using the chassis and bodywork as a ground in a negative earth system can exacerbate corrosion issues?
My understanding of it is that on each connection (ie ground strap bolted to the chassis or body from engine) with the addition of humidity or water the more positive side of the connection will corrode in favour of the negative. So in general the wiring loom connections corrode rather than the chassis or body. The only point where I can see this going slightly bad is the final strap from the body/chassis back to the negative post on the battery. In this case logic would sugest doing all you can do to reduce any contact resistance by making the connection as good as possible and sealing it as far as possible.
I'm initially resistant to using dedicated earth cabling back to the battery as this would need to be a significant CSA to match the equivilent condustion through the chassis and therefore expensive. In addition it adds more potential points of failure for the loom and if the resisitance on the return isn't considered carefully it would cause an additional voltage drop considerarion for items far from the battery like rear tail and work lights.
All that said I have considered dedicated earth runs back to the battery for items like radio and any other electronics to try and help reduce electrical noise issues.
Cheers.
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Forgot to say that I double checked the old disco loom diagrams in the Haynes and you can see that with the exception of one of them the big fuses appeared to be at least double the rating of their sub fuses.
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I contacted an automotive electronic supplier website and they confirmed that when using a fuse to protect a number of branches then ideally the main fuse rating should be such that the sub fuses blow before the main. With blade fuses that means that the main fuse should be at least double the rating of any of its sub fuses, or higher if the total load expected from the sum of the branch loads is larger than this.
Also asked about cable sizing. In general fusing at the cable rating is ok, although fusing at 70-80% is recommended. Voltage drop across longer runs then to mean larger CSA cables are used to reduce voltage drop, rather than for their current carrying capacity, so in these cases the fuse rating could be lower still as there is little point fusing to the capacity of the cable as the difference would only be used in a fault.
Back to the notes and sketches....!
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My understanding of fuse discrimination in the final paragraph below, just incase I've used the wrong term!
Blade fuses are often rated at their continuous rated current, and are rated to blow at double that, with the actual blow happening somewhere between the continuous and the blow rating. So when sizing blade fuses in series should the continuous rating be at least half on each new fuse toward the final ground point? Is this specified in wiring regulations, or just best practice?
If you had a 15A feeding a few circuits including a 10A then the blow rating of the 10A is above the continous rating of the 15A. I presume there is a small chance that a fast peak current may blow the 15 before the 10, taking more circuits down with it.
In general electrical panels and car looms unfused or protected conductors are minimised, eliminated where possible/practical. The conductors are specified so that if a wire was shorted direct to earth the circuit protection either blew a fuse or dropped a breaker before the conductor failed. Often a group of individually fused circuits are grouped under a single larger fuse either to control the power to all through a single relay (eg powered when keys in accessory position), or perhaps just to reduce the specification requirement for the conductor joining all of the circuits. The fuse circuit discriminimation is set up so the fuse closest to the fault fails first. The result of this is running through all the fuses between the battery thorugh the circuit to ground will result in the fuses dropping in size with the smallest closest to the circuit, device, or sensor before the ground or return to the battery.
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Cheers for the information. Thought that was the case with regards the side lide but wanted to check!
Back to the notepad...
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Hi All,
Working on a project that will use defender style lights. While the build will most likely use LED I'd like to size the loom for the worst case currents which I believe is the standard filament bulbs. I'll get the kit of lights early next year but wanted to get a head start on things.
This is the list I've got from one bulb company but lost faith when I spotted a H4 listed as an interior bulb! :-D
H4 472 Head light 60W/55W
H3 453 Front Fog 55W
R5W Front Side Light 5W
P21/5W 380 Stop/Tail 21W/5W
P21W 382 Rear Fog 21W
P21W 382 Reverse 21W
P21W 382 Front Indicator 21W
P21W 382 Rear Indicator 21W
T4W 233 Number Plate Light 1WAre there two side lights at the front (head light bowl and seperate) or just the ones in the seperate units?
I'm guessing about head light level currents for work lights and spots but should be able to confirm that in some accessory catalogues.
Thanks.
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I've been working on stripping down the Discovery to the point where it can take the kit body and start work on the wiring loom. It's becoming obvious that a lot of my initial ideas may take more time than I can afford to give the project at the moment. I do however still intend to rebuild my loom and add in features for safety and reliability, such as isolation switches and such.
It occured to me last night that one of things that was attractive about solid state alternatives to relays (low current to close the switched circuit) may also be its down fall. Water on the electrics. While relays don't like it from what I've seen and read 12v circuits can generally take it so long as there isn't much in the way of ICs or other sensitive electronics? Alternators being a good example here. While they do get eaten up by lots of high water levels crossings I think this is more related to corrosion and general gunging up? So the way the relays conduct current (as opposed to mosfets where the gate is more of a capacitor) could be resulting in small leakage currents due to water conduction across circuits being ignored? After all it's common to see cars with headlights on floating in floods.
So all in all while I still like the idea of solid state alternatives I think this is not fiesable unless I find an affordable off-the-shelf product. I've seen a couple of interesting items including delphi and hella solid state relays which appear to be plug in alternatives to the mechanical relays, but I could only find a price (£90!) for the hella unit.
The specification points for my loom are now:
Fully fused and isolated - I've seen fused battery terminals and 'mega fuses' which are in the 500A teritory. Likewise marine isolators which can handle 300A continuous which should be ok for winches and starters.
Fully crimped loom - This will split people. I used to like soldering joints as it looked neater and theoretically gave a better joint but from what I've read it can cause a stress raiser in a wire which can cause the wire to fail thorugh fatigue.
Monitored / accessable test points - The machine electrical panels that I've worked on have been easy to fault find because of easily accessable terminals with contacts that can be prodded easily with a multimeter! I'd like to add a little diagnostics at a later date but not necessarily straight off. This will just mean I'll identify test points in the loom and make sure that when an electronically controlled switch (either mechanical or solid state relay) is being driven by multiple sources there are diodes in place to prevent one signal energising all of the inputs.
If anyone has any hidden gems of information with regards to low cost solid state relays I'm still lisening! Particually if they are quick enough to be used in Pulse Width Modulation circuits to remove resistors in heater or wiper (assuming there are resistors in the wiper drive - may not be the case) controls!
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It's FourWD Engineering in Warrington that will be supplying the kit. They aquired the rights to prodcue the kits from NCF Motors after the owner decided to cease trading. Not sure how Blitz fit in to the supply of Saharas in relation to those two companies, but have seen they are on their website.
I did speak a bit with fourwd (among various other questions on that day!) but wanted to know if there are common routes (/suppliers) taken when shortening overhangs or creating traybacks. Any tank would have to be capable of getting through the IVA.
As for location it would be under the load bay floor. Ideally a little further forward than the current tank. Will be cutting the rear of the donor off soon so I'll have a far better idea of what space is free!
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Hi All,
What are the common options (ie, unless surprisingly economic I'd like to avoid custom builds) for aftermarket petrol tanks that will fit on the discovery chassis? I'm building the Sahara kit (basically a defender nose, custom cab and pick up style rear) and had considered trimming the overhang but the closeness of the petrol tank to the rear of my chassis concerns me it I did that. I'd like to at least maintain the curren petrol tanks capacity.
Cheers,
Wesely.
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Ok initial strip part way through.
It looks like the engine has had a rebuild in it's life time but I'm not sure how recent that was. How long would you expect the honing / de-glazing marks to last from the previous rebuild? In addition to that the water pump had a lot of clear silicone in it, and many of the bolts were just finger tight, requiring just a socket and extention for a little better grip to undo.
On the up side the head was tightly bolted down and the bolts seemed even. I was using a breaker bar to undo them so I could feel what they were like. All of them cracked loose making the same sound, and feeling about the same tightness. No signs of leakage beween the cylinders and the liners look like they've stayed put.
Honing marks:
Cam looks toasted. It's got the brown in the middle and shiny on the outside wear pattern. A couple of the lobes looked pitted. The followers looked smooth, but with a central patch of wear as well.
Toasted cam lobe:
There's a lobe on here though that doesn't look too bad?
Not checked the step at the top of the bore yet, and not checked the mains. Sump is currently still on!
I'm guessing my bill of materials so far is cam, cam bearings, followers, rods, timing gear, timing chain, water pump, and most likely rockers - as well as the usual service items and gaskets where disturbed. I'll have a look at the mains next weekend.
What do you think? Perhaps a cam swap without followers being changed, or a poor cam run in? The followers weren't mushroomed on the lobe contact face and slid easily out of their bores. I'm aware there is a fair bit of muck about. I'll get the engine spotless before rebuild and install.
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Agree with the prototyping. It's a no brainer for many urgent projects. Two weeks back I find myself needing a bracket. Vaguely this was holding an machined aluminimum component (weighing around 3kg via a rectangle of 26 M4 bolts) to a traverse stage on a machine (4 M4 bolts). Simple 90 degree bracket with triangular bracing and 30 holes. I'm no machinist and the thought of trying to acurately drill the holes is enough to put it straight out to externals.
This was on a Wednesday morning. Trial needed to be tested in a week. Favoured suppliers on shut down so decided to CAD it up for manufacture by plastic Fused Powder Bed (SLS - Selective Laser Sintering) in glass filled nylon. While it was more expensive I was able to add features like nut traps on the 26 m4 bolts to the ally component that made my life much easier. It was delivered from our prototyping place the following Tuesday and in action on the machine that Wednesday and Friday. It's about 165mm cubed and cost £800. I Wouldn't be surprised if shopping around could get that below £600. Expensive compared to simmarly sized components on your Landy yes, but I'd of thought it wouldn't be far off the 1 off cost of machining in the nut traps into metal and welding up the rest of the bracket.
Cost will come down but other issues will raise up soon. Recycling of some of the UV curing materials is between very difficult and not possible. Filament modellers are good for recylability as shown but a few homebrew part chippers and filament extruders. High power lasers for metals are expensive, but more of an issue there is safety. Trying to hitting aluminum (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_Shuttle_Solid_Rocket_Booster#Propellant) with a laser in a safe way has a steep learning curve!
On the subject of cost HP is entering the market soon...
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Great to see an interest in the technology developing in unexpected areas!
I've been involved in the technology since around 2003 and the recent spike in interest, and a boom in personal printers is really forcing the industry to pick up it's pace and get its act together.
For those who may want to use the technology a rule of thumb is if it looks like an easily machinable part it would probably be cheaper to do so. Parts within a 100mm cube are likely to range from £200 to a £1000, but that relies on the part not being really thick wall sections etc. Parts within a 250mm can be made on many commercial systems. There are biger machines which deal with parts upto 1m but these are less common, and much more expensive to run.
I built a filament modeller for work from an RS kit for £450. It works and can make bits upto around 150mm cube, but it is a fiddle to keep running. With suitable ventilation It is capable of producing ABS parts which maybe useful for parts around the airbox!
Regarding the CAD systems there are a few free systems starting to raise their head. FreeCAD is one I've been trying recently, but it is worth noting this is definately still a beta system and often requires the patience of a saint to find out which way to create something so the software doesn't roll over and croak!
Removable Tunnel or Panels to Aid Engine Maintenance
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
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Hi All,
My discovery is now stripped nearly as far as it will go before being rebuilt into the Sahara. I had the engine out to access it's condition and found it a right ball ache to get at some of the fasteners. Have many people attempted to make the tunnel removable, or install removable panels to make this process easier? Other option would be to drop engine and gearbox at the same time, but I'm guessing this is not striaght forward, or cheap on the equipment side?
Thanks,
Wesley.