Rich_P
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Posts posted by Rich_P
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Could it be a stretched timing chain you're suffering from then?
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I wouldn't be so sure. A Series shouldn't wander all over the road, and ones that have been set up/maintained/repaired properly have steering nearly if not as accurate as Defenders and Discoveries.
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Thanks chaps.
The question was for someone who I know who was interested in getting as close to the 7.00 tyre size (like what the CT motors used) as possible, given that they appear to be the tallest tyres that you can use without having to mess about with suspension alterations. Said chap wasn't wanting a super wide tyre either, so I guess 205/80R16 might be the best size given its width and height?
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That has the same height as 205/80R16. 7.00 tyres have a height of 177.8mm and 205/80R16 has a height of 164mm. 235/70 has a height of 164.5mm...
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Hi again.
I'm trying to figure out the closest Metric equivelant to the 7.00 R16 tyre size. I've come up with it being somewhere between 205/80 and 215/85.
Anyone know of what may be a common size that's very close if not the same size to 7.00 R16?
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Yes, the two distributors are interchangeable. Be wary about Paddocks too.
I had a 45D, not sure who the manufacturer was, but it was pants. First example was jammed and had to be sent back, second example worked for a few months before sticking in a very retarded position. I now run with the old 25D the Land Rover had when I got it, and it runs better than it did with the 45D even though the shaft is worn on the 25D!
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Power steering, why may I ask?
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I'm not aware of any free wheeling hubs that only lock in one direction. My MAP hubs lock for both directions with the use of a big spanner.
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its a 1960 but its had a series 3 bulkhead fitted as the old one was rotten
...and S3 front end.
I notice it has the latches on the back for a tailgate. Do you think you'll be going ragtop?
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The engine numbers won't identify if the engine is fitted with a high or low compression type head.
Typically a high compression head will have a raised lug that has a head retaining bolt going through it, located between inlets 2 and 3. In simpler terms: on the manifold side of the head where all the head retaining bolts go through, if that surface is the same height the entire length of the head then it's a low compression. Otherwise it is a high compression head.
But as with anything, a previous owner could have altered it. In this instance a low compression head could have been machined to become a high compression head.
As for the running on problem, check the timing and ignition components over (and replace as required). Altering the mixture might also help reduce the problem. I was once told that this is more likely to occur on one of these engines given the contents of unleaded now.
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which ones to take - is there a differen between series 2a / series 3 etc?
Door stays are different. Series 2 types utilise a tab for a bolt to go through, connected to a rod that extends out from the bulkhead. The Series 3 type uses a system similar to what a Defender uses.
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Door cards were available for Series motors, although they aren't spectacular and were made out of bits of cardboard and vinyl.
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Have been told that there are some really good remoulds out there now that don't delaminate thereby being safe.
If I recall correctly, they're govened by similar rules to new rubber so tyre failures are a big no no for manufacturers of remoulds these days.
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Why Chequer plate? Do you too have an obsession with Chequer?
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Depending on when you tightened all the suspension bolts up (not including U bolts) can also have an effect on how it sits.
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Like 10 second delay on Amber for a 30 mph zone and a 1 second delay for a 40+ mph zone?
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if you have 2 people in a 90 it will be little tight in space wouldnt it?
Six people sharing two 86-inch Land Rovers travelled from London to Singapore. No fancy roof racks or tents for the 18,000 mile journey.
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I have only been able to find the straight piece ones as you'd find for utility Land Rovers, and the wrap around type for Range Rovers and Discoveries. Does anyone know if there are bull bars like the Camel Trophy Discovery vehicles had in circulation?
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Sounds like your wheel balancing is out.
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Deestones are fine, even in heavier snow on the roads than there is right now outside.
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Gearbox may not take well to the GL5, that's what suffers as GL5 has some properties that eat away at (I think) the bronze components.
You'll get a better idea if when you drain the oil after using GL5 that it might have damaged the internals from a glitter like look to the oil.
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What effect does double declutching have on changing into second gear? If it improves the gear selection then that indicates possible syncro wear (premitting that the clutch is fully disengaging, check fluid levels too!).
Can't comment about the handbrake other than check it's not actually binding when you reverse. On Series motors it has happened where the material on the brake shoe has actually come away from the shoe and were jamming the drum.
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The sheer amount of ancillaries and components that you have to get through before you can even just get to the engine itself is enough to be of some concern to me.
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There were some damaged but salvageable Defenders for sale at one of the shows last year. That one looks minor compared to a couple that were at the show!
Green Lanes
in Getting out and about
Posted
I don't think it's really an argumentative petition. In fact, to me it looks very none-politically put together, i.e. they'll just brush it off because it is full of holes. To my knowledge, the term greenlane doesn't even hold any value. It should have been talking about Rights of Way and Priorities if the petition was to even hold an ounce of weight. So for that reason I am not signing it.