Rich_P
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Posts posted by Rich_P
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nor a RPM counter with an "ideal" RPM range (see "Reduced 85%" above).
Looks like just a reflection on the dash's glass piece.
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ofcourse with an original number there is a leyland logo before and after the VIN (in later years an asterisk or something)
I don't think you can buy Leyland logo stamps?
Not a problem for Series motors up to the last of the 2As I'd think? Because Leyland didn't exist till the end of the 1960s right?
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I believe the S2C offer reproductions of the correct type for the year of the vehicle. They also stamp the VINs too I believe, so it looks genuine.
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Well I'm restoring a series 2a and I want the chassis plate restamping. Is there any where who does them professionally. I'm in staffordshire
Get in touch with the Series 2 Club. They should be able to help.
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I've not come across a well used TD (i.e. 100ish k) that does not create the infamous smoke screen on starting. Even one I know that is in excellent condition generates a white cloud when firing up.
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The first model of the Discovery, the 200 Series body, is nothing like a Discovery 2. The Discovery 2 only looks similar and that's about it. Even the 300 Series, regardless of the interior looking very much like the D2, is still nothing like the D2 underneath. So be sure it's what you want!
The Rover 3.5 is the smallest version available. At the time in the Range Rover it was in 3.9 litre form and appeared in 3.9 form for the 300 Series body of the Discovery.
The fuel tank will be 85 litres. Anything from 14-18mpg should be expected with sensible driving, maybe more while cruising.
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What's the colour of the ATF? Has it turned to dark brown or black?
Does the engine need to rev a lot to get the vehicle moving and keep it moving, say beyond 2,000rpm?
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a low milage disco used for the school runis what you want.
Wouldn't that be one of the poorer engine choices? Given the fact that most school runs are within a few miles, the engine will spend more time running stone cold than up to temp won't it? Wouldn't this accelerate the wear far quicker than if it had done many more miles but at full temp?
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The 200TDi conversion is more commonly performed, and I suspect this is down to the fact that there appears to be more parts on the market for the conversion.
Overall performance between the two powerplants is very close. Some say the 200TDi is better, some say the 300TDi. On paper both powerplants produce the same horsepower and torque while in factory spec.
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I had been following discussions about springs on the S2C Forums, and it appears it is very very difficult to get any decent standard springs these days. In other words, only poor quality ones are said to be available unless you go for parabolics.
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I have been told that in a lot of cases the genuine items come off the same production line as the cheaper items and that the only difference is the name on it and the box it goes in.
And that can be quite true. OEM means it's made to the correct spec (or should be, and can be the same item that comes in a fancy LR logo box but without the price tag), pattern means it's cheapo stuff that may or may not meet the standards set by the manufacturer.
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Ive run it back on diesel but it still rattles
Are you getting your fuel from a known good supplier?
I just say this as there are a few main street fuel stations (normally private operated by one family if you get the idea) that might provide dodgy fuel.
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Could it also just be poorly set tappets?
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At the multistory in town I can sometimes make a right racket with the 2A when the CB ariel is fitted. The ariel only stands maybe an inch higher than the canvas roof, and the ariel cleared the clatter barrier without a problem.
Once inside, cue lots of noise as the ariel clips all the signs that are hanging down from chains while I drive through the multistory.
I just think of the paint damage that could be done to another vehicle, given that my ariel didn't even touch the clatter barrier at the entrance.
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You might like to have a look here about the tyres.
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The fact that LPG is fitted makes a big difference. LPG burns at a different rate than petrol does, so you have to alter the ignition timing for LPG (no knock sensors present on the 3.9).
Unless you have a fancy gadget that alters the timing depending on whether or not you're running on LPG means you'll need to find a compromise. This means the ignition timing won't be quite right for either petrol or gas, but it'll be close enough to run on both fuel types. It does however mean a drop in performance and increased fuel consumption rates.
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Hi,
I,ve found the sollution:
http://www.mm-4x4.com/complete-stainless-s...trol-2889-p.asp
Not cheap, but a very good and lasting alternative!
That talks of being for a 2.25 and no mention of increased diameter for the 2.5! Didn't you want the increased diameter so the 2.5 can breath properly?
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Steve Parker specialises in exhaust systems.
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Check the small wire inside the dizzy for shorting out or being broken. If that's damaged or shorting out there will be poor connectivity between the coil and distributor.
I would also suggest that you check the advance and retard, particularly if it's a new distributor that's been fitted. When the engine starts to run poorly, stop it and check the distributor. You may find the central shaft is jammed too far retarded or advanced in relation to the engine speed.
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There you go missing the point again Will. With the scrappage scheme you are supposed to trade in the old bangers not buy them
:rolleyes: 
;) ;)It'll still likely outlive your 90.
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No standard LR rims, from memory I think the 750-16s were about 33 inch, it was the top of the tyres that rubbed on the bottom of side seat part of the tub. The springs in it are not original (dont know what they are from) and it seems to articulate a lot more at the back than other 88 SIIs Ive seen (that dont use parabolics
I've only managed to get my 7.50s rubbing on the tub when cross axled once or twice. I have heard of stories of people fitting transit springs to Series vehicles in the past too. Maybe that's along the lines of what a previous owner has done on your motor?
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Different properties, GL5 would cause components to corrode in the gearbox (not sure if it was bronze parts or what). Some say that the latest GL5 products have additional additives to stop this happening, but personally I would say stick to GL4 spec if you can.
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My interpretation of the rules is that a utility Land Rover holds practically no points in the bodywork. But! The steering is connected to the bulkhead, so if that's all altered then you might lose points there and the same if you alter all the chassis mountings for the body.
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The old 750-16 SATs that I used to have on it broke all of the supports off the bottom of the seats in the tub....
Those rims you're running must really be wide.
:rolleyes: 
;) 
Insurance price hike?
in International Forum
Posted
This might explain a little.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40250