Rich_P
-
Posts
488 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Rich_P
-
-
Or you could have a case that the clutch hydraulics (if it uses them) are shot.
-
Derbyshire has quite a large number of easy going routes, with the occasional section that makes it a bit challenging for some people.
-
anyway, as you can see it is a series 3, i think it may be exmil?
Why do you think it might be ex-military? Please don't say it's because of the paint colour!
-
IIRC when it opens it allows oil to flow from the oil cooler back into the engine/oil pump.
To prevent overcooling of the oil, allowing to keep the engine at operating temp?
-
Doesn't make sense but their computer says she is less of a risk than I am
If it were the other way around, somehow I wonder the sexism shouters in society would be ranting away to get it changed.
-
Find yourself an old sieres 3 like I did, my first year was £850 and droped every year after that.
Put a 1 infront of the 850 to get closer to what I was getting quotes for. See my earlier post for reasons why.
The cheapest quotation I have got is £880 so far this year and was from Footman James on a young driver classic policy. Everywhere else was £1,500 and up.
An issue some people may now be experiencing too is that a lot of the cheaper insurance companies don't touch anything over 25 years old.... so that's nearly all leafers out of the equation there.
-
living in RH10 postcode.
One of the lowest risk postcodes apparently, hence why you get it so cheap.
http://www.carinsuranceexplained.com/car_i...stcode_risk.htm
-
"£$% that is high
Not really, not for an inner city postcode.
To give a comparison, a quote for me where I am now on a Defender is £1,500 with pass plus, no incidents and one year's no claims bonus. If I get a quote for out in the country, it's £700. I'm 19 years old too.
-
Oh okay. You say that for corrosion to take play, the three "ingredients" are required. Would corrosion stop taking place if a barrier was created even if the surface had already begun corroding?
-
I'm aware of three vehicles that suffer this, mine being one of them. All I know is that my Zenith reproduction carb came in the infamous blue box and the engine floods on steep slopes to the right.
I'm guessing that it's because of a poor seal within the carb, allowing the float's entire contents to pour straight into the venturi?
-
I've been pondering over something small, but has big consequences for many Land Rovers.
Most Land Rovers built utilise the box section chassis that we all love and hate, love for its strengths and hate for how it also rots out like it does.
We know that the box section corrodes at a far greater rate internally than it does externally. We also know that applying paint and/or underseal/waxoil can help reduce the rate of corrosion in places.
What I don't know is that, if you took a box section chassis and did not paint it or give it any form of protection internally nor externally, would it still rot out from the inside far far faster than it could corrode inwards from the outside?
To add to the debate, would a chassis that has had paint or waxoil injected into the chassis corrode from the outside inwards at a faster rate than it would still likely corrode from the inside out? Or would corrosion rates be similar for both surfaces?
To finish off, would a chassis that has been lightly coated externally and heavily coated internally corrode from the outside in or not?
-
Door cards were an optional extra. They weren't exactly the most robust piece of trim so often fell apart within a matter of years of use and abuse!
-
Come on then sell it to me........... why should i own one?
If you want a Rover car with the green oval slapped on it rather than a 4x4/Land Rover.
-
I think the input shaft is different on the gearbox?
-
Definitely have a drive of the 109 first. In comparison to an 88, the turning circle is quite large!
The places to look for corrosion (the killer of Landies) is more or less the same for all Series vehicles and later coil sprung Util models (e.g. 90 and 110).
Start with the chassis. Do not be afraid to take a pointy hammer along with you and be sure to get underneath. Tap away at the chassis from front to back to find any regions of rot. The most common locations for rot on an elderly chassis is the rear crossmember, outriggers and front legs.
If the chassis checks out good enough for you, check over the bulkhead for rot as well. They corrode in the footwells, door pillars (where the hinges are), around the vent flaps and below the windscreen. The front radiator panel can be rotten too along the bottom as it's a fine water trap.
The mechanicals are relatively simple in contrast to the later models.
-
I find it hard to believe a V8 is struggling to pull the 90... Even a rover one, i knew they were ropey engines at best, but i'd still have expected it to perform better than a derv!
I wouldn't be sure if it could be an early LR unit! I think they only produced just over 100bhp and similar torque to a standard TDi?
-
I would look to replace the radiator cap to begin with.
-
They look the same as now?? Disco has a RRS front end splattered onto it. Me thinks it look ugly.
-
Thanks for the reply, I wasn't aiming to get more ground clearance but just wanted to make it taller that all.
Is this some kind of grand scheme to make it so that one no longer needs a ramp to walk underneath?
-
-
I've always had to provide both on my 1957 motor and prewar motors.....
So you have had to provide the VIN plate for said motors, even if the chassis number was located elsewhere (e.g. on the chassis itself)?
At the local Council Depot, a VIN plate was not required for the MOT of my Series permitting that the chassis number was clearly marked elsewhere (e.g. where it is supposed to be).
I've just had a look for the MOT manual online, but it doesn't appear to be available online. What I have found is this, see the section towards the bottom of the page about VIN plates.
-
I'm not sure if it is illegal, given that you are able to get new plates for Series motors. But having said that, up to a certain year they can be presented at the MOT without the VIN as long as the chassis has a number on it...
-
Important question is whether or not you would be staying with the leaf springs. If you are, then you need to modify the Discovery axles to accept the leaf springs as well as alter the steering setup on the axle. If you are converting to coil springs, then you will be looking towards an SVA (i.e. Q plate) with all the additional alterations you will be making.
See for more here.
-
The place you want to go for custom made exhaust systems is Steve Parker.
Another Defender special edition fails to sell well new
in International Forum
Posted
An NAS style vehicle with the classic original Series 1 colours would probably have been good!