Badders

Not as yet, I currently have a modded e-bay temperature switch housing which has a sender for the temperature gauge and now a switch for the fan, it's cutting in about 88° and currently doing a good job, I've not seen temps over about 91° when in traffic... I think I will get the ECU modded to though. I'm currently having PWM problems, in that it's not working (and i don't think it ever has) so once Nige gets back to me I may kill 2 birds with one stone. Stu

I'm with Kevin above... this is really interesting! I need to spend some time looking at what all this means , I too have one of Nige's set ups and she pops and bangs a bit, I don't have any timing marks on my engine so it's difficult to time up, I think I did a pretty good job on assembly but I played with the trim this morning and it runs a bit smoother with a couple of degrees in. Thanks Random_badger Stu

I too did the boil in the pan thing... I've got the odd looking thermostat housing, the standard one opens at 92, but i've bought a black one that's fully open at 88 deg, so with my fan coming in at 87 till it's done to 82 it should pretty much cut in at the same time as the rad is full... we shall see

lol they could be Knock sensors... I never paid too much attention, they are there, I haven't touched them.

Ok... yes, not the right one... But with Nige's MS kit you replace it with a different one anyway, it also has a temp sensor on each bank on the sides... no idea what they do but they are sooooo close the the exhausts I can't see them working much longer and for me they are in the wrong place to cut the fan in and out.

I've been thinking the same recently, I have a few extra factors in that the car is a 90 and the engine is the Thor 4.0 V8, My engine doesn't have a temp sensor for the gauge in the dash, so I've already got an in hose sender for that, I don't really want to bodge 2 together,the other factor is that with it being in a 90 they all seem to run hot, so I wanted the ability to set the on and off temps to what ever I like. All that being said, I haven't heard back from Nige yet, and I can't leave things so I've found on ebay a temp switch that cuts in at 87 deg and out at 82 deg which I should be able to install into my existing in line boss along with the sender, I just need to drill and tap an M16x1.5 hole... I can't decide if I need a switch on the dash.... it's a nice idea but am I going to switch it off... forget and cook the engine verses spraying some water over a water proofed engine?

Thanks for this.... I was looking around on the web and had come to the same conclusion.... Send back to Nige! Competence with a soldering iron is... OK... I think I first used one when I was about 6, I then used one at school, about 14... and these days maybe every month or so, but for electrics not electronics! very very different! I'm still sending it back to Nige, I know my limits! Thanks for your help everyone! I have the answer so I can sleep again now! Stu

Ok, attached (I hope) is a pic of my board, I was waiting for Nige... but I fidget a lot and my mind goes off I have PWM and it works great, but looking at this I don't have anything else.. can you confirm? What do I need to do to get me a relay output onto pin sp3 in the D37 plug? Thanks for your help Stu

I've just sent Nige an e-mail, better he tells me than I strip the lot out for no reason... I will report back! I may need more technical assistance! like a drawing! Cheers for your help! Stu

proto? from what I have seen online there are a lot of diodes, transistors and resistors lol... how about if I post a pic?

I would imagine so... I'll have to ask Nige if this is built into it, might have a dig about for some drawings and have a look inside the ECU

Thanks but yes I tried that,if I stick my power probe onto sp3 and cycle the ignition, the on/off temp, etc I get nothing, I should see a red light for +12V or a green light if it goes to ground. Thanks for the advice though... It's gotta be summit simple lol

Hi everyone I need some help... I have one of Nige's MS1 setups for a rover V8, but I want to us the MS to switch the fan on and off, reading on here I see that pin sp3 on the ECU D plug is the right output and i've set it up so that it pulls in a relay to power the fan, I have 12V to the coil on the switch and the ground goes back to sp3 pin on the ECU. But I get nothing... the fan certainly works, using a power probe I can make the fan run, but if i test the sp3 pin it's dead, no ground no connection to anything. i've tried setting the temp and looking at megatune I can see the output coming on and off, it's going green on the bottom of the screen at the set temp can anyone shed any light on what i'm going wrong? is there some setting in the ECU to make this active or something? taaa Stu

I soooo wish I'd seen this thread a few weeks ago, I've just got a 4.0 Thor out of a disco 2 running in a 90... She's not on the road yet but it's getting close and I'm looking forward to it Stu

Hi everyone, I'm pretty new on here, I just wanted to say Hello I've got a 300tdi 90 which is soon (hopefully) to emerge into the world as a 4.0L Thor powered V8, I got the engine out of a Disco II Does anyone know of any other Thor V8 defenders about? I'm keen to hear about how they got on!? Stu

I was seeing the cranking speed in Megatune either way around, but I was not getting a ground at the coilpacks. I would see 130ish rpm if the battery was a little flatter or 155 ish after a full charge... I fear my battery is on the way out too! Stu

very true!!! :-) Thanks again Nige... you are a genius! Stu

Ok, I've had a bit more communication with Nige and it's sorted! it turns out that even when the VR is around the wrong way you can still read rpm on the laptop... turned them around and off she went! Stu

Hi Everyone I could do with some help please? I've bought a MS kit from Nige but I need some fault finding help, I have the kit installed on a Thor 4.0 from a disco 2, now mounted into a 90, but I can't get it to start, I've done a few tests and the coil packs aren't firing, with testing I have 12V to the centre pin on the LT connector on to the coil pack, but I'm not getting a ground whilst cranking... on any of the 4 coils. My laptop is reading RPM of about 150rpm during cranking, so the VR is working, the injectors are firing, I have water temp, air temp, MAP pressure, Throttle position, but no spark. I have a friend who's a similar set-up so tested my EDIS on his car yesterday and it worked fine... I have continuity from the coil packs to the EDIS, every other wire looks to be correct, I even disconnected the PIP ans SAW wires after reading that the EDIS will go into limp mode if they're not connected... nothing! the EDIS was earthed out to the battery, but I've just changed that to earth into the MS ECU... I know it must be my wiring but I cant find it... and even if I did have the coil pack wires in the wrong order I should still have coils firing, even if it won't run? Thanks for your help... Stu