bobtail84

As missingsid said the EDIS is waterproof so you can mount it anywhere. I can't imagine that the EDIS will cause interference but if you keep the EDIS out side the box, just in case, it will be fine.

I use a pump from an old Jag, Bosch 4FP or something that will give you the right flow and pressure. Don't forget that the Rover Efi has a PRV on the fuel rail so as long as you have more pressure than you need the rest will feed back to the tank (as long as you remembered to run a return pipe..) There are lots on eBlag or just pop down to your local breakers and get one out of the boot of an old Jag or Damian sovereign. HTH

The cooker ring only restricts the air flow at higher RPM's so the extra torques are still freely available at the lower RPM and my truck is not the kind of vehicle you would race around. I have a full Prinz LPG injection system that has been lurking in the shed for a number of years but I personally don't think there is enough benefit to warrant the work involved. If the cooker ring system is set up correctly, IE spend time on the AFR with the adjuster screws I find it all works very well even when totally submerged. The only time you get a back fire is when it runs lean on idle or just as you start to accelerate both of which can be sorted out with right adjustment and running duel maps helps as you can have the correct spark table in use.

Is this what your looking for?

Mick, If you open TS in' tune analyze' live then click on the' advanced settings tab' you have 'filter settings'. If you set the minimum RPM to 1000 that will stop it changing the cells below the set value. You also have 'AFR targets table'. If you open the tab you will get 3 options. It should be set to 'tuner studio custom (default)' open that one and have a look. Now... you can change the numbers if you wish.. I wouldn't. If you have the latest update on TS you also have a tab with Warmup Enrichment 1. This new toy auto tunes the WE. I haven't used it yet so you are on ya own with that.. But i'm led to believe it's very useful. HTH

Hi, If you could post a pic of your spark and fuel maps that might give some indication as to what the problem is. Also if you post the Msq some of the other settings might be out. Some other info will help such as where you got the ECU, which version ie MS1 MS2... and is it running EDIS. Information is power as some really important and clever person once said.

The reason the Thor engine came about was due to the punter whining that his/her Disco/RR with the Gems V8 wouldn't pull Tarquins/Ptracey's horse box, trailer, whatever with enough speed to keep up with the local milk float so Landrover came up with the Thor engine which is basically an inlet modification. It offered more torque at the bottom of the rev range to the detriment of top end BHP. This is OK in a Landrover pulling a trailer weighing enough to create it's own gravity but not for the go faster chaps.. That's what I heard anyway. Any road up have a look here

I would try reloading the firmware then reload the Msq obviously making sure you have saved the Msq before rebooting the ECU...

If you take the valve out you can use is as a return as I have on the Thor conversion.

Normally when you've set the AFR up on M.T or T.S that's all you need to do but if you want to just nose from time to time I would suggest using shadow dash. You can then monitor the AFR on your phone..

I did look other "water proof" boxes but unless you are under water for weeks at a time IP55 would be fine also the size was just right. I didn't find one of the right size with a clear lid but I will keep looking.

Found these whilst looking for something else.. The box came from B&Q and cost about a tenner and I do have a picture of the finished job which I can't find at the mo but you will get the idea. When it was finished it was bolted behind the drivers seat on a 90 and was just the job.

Hi Tom, if you go back to the beginning of this thread you will see that I have used the original 3.9 housing. HFH developed the spacers to allow the use of the 3.9 housing and if you look closely you might notice that there is no thermostat. The disc is a direct replacement for the stat and I find it really helps the flow and also there is enough restriction to keep it from running to cold. Using the original housing means still using original hoses. Hi Antoine, as Fridge said you might need a tune up BUT that said I did put a viper cyclone cam from Real Steel which is the biggest duration cam I could fit without modifying the valve train and the Thor conversion definitely has more "torque" than a standard 3.9 so if you put a high torque cam in a Thor 4.6 it will pull very well. Try not to forget it is a Rover V8 and not an LS....

Update.... I had a major shake down in September which did throw up a few minor issues. The overall conversion is just fantastic, it's a true delight to drive but as this is an R&D project I was expecting some teething problems. I run my truck on LPG most of the time using a "cooker ring" system with out any problems but the Thor top end draws quite a bit more air than the Hot wire so I did have a few "lean" moments.. I now need a new K&N air filter as mine now looks like a balloon because of a couple of back fires at idle and low acceleration. It was just a few adjustment and that was sorted. Running petrol I have had no problems. I have not lowered the PRV pressure from 3.6 bar or 52psi as it runs like a dream so don't fix whats working.. The Temp sensor was, I thought, showing higher readings than that where true so I unlimbered the snapon IR temp doofer and the difference is within tolerances but the oil pressure fell off the gauge..... I came home from an event with no indicated oil pressure and 92c on the MT water temp gauge. We were fully loaded with kit on a kin hot day but I was very concerned. I removed the oil pressure sensor that is for the oil light and fitted an oil pressure gauge and...... all was well, 25psi at hot idle and 40psi 2000 plus rpm. That is with all standard oil pump parts. I purchased a new oil pressure sender and all is good. If you do fit the Thor kit there maybe some sensor differences but if your engine is in good condition you will an engine with 4.6 torque and 3.9 zing and that is what this project is all about.

Update.... I had a major shake down in September which did throw up a few minor issues. The overall conversion is just fantastic, it's a true delight to drive but as this is an R&D project I was expecting some teething problems. I run my truck on LPG most of the time using a "cooker ring" system with out any problems but the Thor top end draws quite a bit more air than the Hot wire so I did have a few "lean" moments.. I now need a new K&N air filter as mine now looks like a balloon because of a couple of back fires at idle and low acceleration. It was just a few adjustment and that was sorted. Running petrol I have had no problems. I have not lowered the PRV pressure from 3.6 bar or 52psi as it runs like a dream so don't fix whats working.. The Temp sensor was, I thought, showing higher readings than that where true so I unlimbered the snapon IR temp doofer and the difference is within tolerances but the oil pressure fell off the gauge..... I came home from an event with no indicated oil pressure and 92c on the MT water temp gauge. We were fully loaded with kit on a kin hot day but I was very concerned. I removed the oil pressure sensor that is for the oil light and fitted an oil pressure gauge and...... all was well, 25psi at hot idle and 40psi 2000 plus rpm. That is with all standard oil pump parts. I purchased a new oil pressure sender and all is good. If you do fit the Thor kit there maybe some sensor differences but if your engine is in good condition you will an engine with 4.6 torque and 3.9 zing and that is what this project is all about.