V8RRC
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Posts posted by V8RRC
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Thanks for the input guys!
Bish I believe Tony is correct in saying it is a later system! I had looked at Geoff's ABS write up & it does not seem the same!
We will have to try a local independent & get the code(s) read!
Thanks Again,
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Hi All,
I am after a bit of advice regarding ABS faults!
At work we have a 1997 (p-reg) 300 tdi xs Discovery which the ABS was working fine on but one day while out on a job with a 16ft trailer in tow the ABS light decieded to come on & stay on!
After being cautious during the rest of the journey & returning to the yard it was obvious that the ABS was not working!
After some messing about it was noticed that the stop light were also not working, so after investigation the 4 pin brake light switch turned out to be faulty.
I see looking at the diagram 2 pins do the stop lights & 2 pins go to the ABS unit.
The switch has now been replaced but the light still stays on & no ABS!
From what we can see all the ABS sensors are seated ok!
So does anyone have any ideas on what the fault could be? or since the switch has been replaced does the system need to be reset? & if so is there a way of doing this without going to a main stealer?
Thanks for any help or advice!
Regards,
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BTW: are you sure, the rev-counter is fed by the ignition coil ? On my 3.9 (which already has one RoadSpeedTransducer to serve the ECU and the elect. speedo as weel on post 1990 models) I am quite sure that the rev signal comes from the alternator ("W").
My 3.5 EFi is of 1989 vintage & my rev counter is also connected to the alternator as stated above!
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This site is also pretty good for buying & selling & general airgun stuff!
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Does anyone have any experience of these headlights??
any good?
Hi,
I fitted a pair of these lights to my Range Rover about 4 months ago & they are a 110% better than the standard ones I removed B) I would have fitted them a long time ago if I had known how good they are!
One thing to remember is the bulbs should have the "U" symbol on the numbers on the bulb due to the lights having a plastic front!
Taken from the Osram website-
"The uppercase "U" indicates a UV-reduced lamp in accordance with ECE requirements (e.g. for use in plastic headlights)"
Hope this helps....
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That could be the one Jim!
This is the pic I found so I will have to have a look under it again tomorrow to see which one it is! Though it looks the same thing!
Cheers,
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Hi Guys,
The selector shaft oil seal on my 89 Range Rover autobox is leaking ATF onto the exhaust downpipe so it needs to be replaced!
I have looked on EPC & can't find a part number for it
would anybody know what it is or is it a case of ring Ashcrofts?Cheers,
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614718 it is!
Thank you very much, see if I can get one now, its louder than all other components on the engine put together.
Rog,
I am pretty sure I have a good secondhand one of these attached to its mounting bracket if it is of any use & depending how fast you want it!
I could have a look tomorrow when I get home from work & post to you Friday!
cheers,
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Nige is correct
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We tow 16ft trailers loaded to 3.5t (inc trailer weight) on a daily basis & use 300tdi discos!
The only problem we have is when pulling out of any junctions with any sort of incline (when loaded) 1st gear always seems to be to high & almost kills the engine! ( a wee bit of clutch slipping needed to pull off)
Apart from that & uprateing the suspension to stop it pulling the Disco about they seem upto the job!
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Use an adjustable, but make sure it's an imperial one.
PMSL
I ain't heard that one for a while!
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IIRC its a temperature sensor for the heated headlamp washers ..........
Ian
I thought it was the temp sensor for the heated washer jets
.....But I could be wrong! 
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Is it a spy shot of Mr Warnes truck?
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Superb job guys well done!
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Mine have just dropped on the mat
Thanks very much to Jim & Si & everyone else involved
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I think this is the temp sender for the heated washer jets.
You think right! It's the thermostat for the heated washer jets
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Hmmm not sure what I am going to fuel mine on as yet but if I go for the diesel option I might well take you up on the nozzle offer
It could also be handy to see how you have constructed your combustion chamber! I have a 52page pdf file here regarding construction/running ect! (can e-mail you a copy if you want one) & it goes on about makeing the combustion chamber relative to the turbo's inducer diameter & square inch area ect
As far as ignition goes I have got a ignitor plug from a "propper" jet engine I intend to use & depending on what fuel I use I have a turbine controller box that controls when different things switch in during starting!
As for starting I am thinking of going down the compressed air option just because I have that & don't own a leaf blower
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I can't see any problems with doing this as I did this once with a V6 Essex engine!
Mine was just sat on the garage floor on the sump with a block of wood under the front
It was surprisingly stable when running! -
As a couple of you know, I am in the process of building a jet engine, based on a turbocharger. This is mainly to try to improve my absolutely terrible fabrication skills. I am nearly there, and have built the burner tube, forcing cone and all of the connections to the turbocharger. The bit that I have to sort out next is the ignition circuit. For this, I have bought a spark plug, normal vehicle coil, ignition lead, and car battery.
The coil has 3 terminals on it - one for the spark plug, then a couple more for power. They are labeled with the polarity. I have connected a lead from the negative terminal of the battery to the negative terminal of the coil, and to the body of the spark plug. I then connected a lead to the +ve terminal of the coil, and tapped it onto the +ve terminal of the battery (which is fully charged, btw). There is a spark, but it is incredibly weak - I would have thought that I would be able to get a nice yellow, warm spark from it.
The question is, when I have been looking for circuit diagrams for an automatic device to make the spark (based on a 555 timer - I have no problems building that part), quite a few of the diagrams show the coil as having an incorrect polarity (ie. the wrong way around)
Does this seem like the correct thing to do? Will the spark get hotter if I switch it faster (like 1KHz) or will it just flicker more?
Any help much appreciated.
Cheers, Keir.
Keir,
I would be interested to see some photo's off your project when it is done as I am starting to collect parts to make one myself
Cheers,
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Have a look here Nige they seem to have a large selection of horns
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No problem! I will have a poke around & see what I can find
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At work we have a couple of these...
They are very simular to your heater & we had a simular problem with one not so long ago! (not the first time either!)
There is a gas solenoid in the gas feed (see your pic below in circle) the best way to test it would be to disconnect the wires to it & apply power to it & it should click! Check the voltage on the label first! Also no need to have the gas on to do this!
If it does not click thats your problem & its normally the coil that seems to go on ours! Remove the nut that holds the coil on (black plastic bit) & it will slide off! Replacement coil over here around £20
If it does click the fault must be with whatever switches the power to the solenoid! Ours have a control box as they are controlled via a stat & these boxes do go but not that often & I don't think yours has that as I cant see one in the pics!
If you need a coil & can't get one there I might be able to help you out depending on what spec & size it is! (think they are a standard thing)
HTH
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We are considering a monthly direct debit thing with PayPal. A couple of quid a month (or whatever) is a very good idea and within the scope of most people that would like to contribute financially to this website.
Les.
Sounds like a good idea to me! I would be happy to go with that
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Nice tidy job that! Simple but effective
.....But I could be wrong! 
just fitted EFI and it wont run......... help!
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
At long last I got around to looking at this problem today! & in the rush of getting the job done yes I overlooked the above mentioned connection to the ignition coil!
After said wire was connected it started instantly!
Cheers Guys!