V8RRC

At long last I got around to looking at this problem today! & in the rush of getting the job done yes I overlooked the above mentioned connection to the ignition coil! After said wire was connected it started instantly! Cheers Guys!

Thanks for the input guys! Bish I believe Tony is correct in saying it is a later system! I had looked at Geoff's ABS write up & it does not seem the same! We will have to try a local independent & get the code(s) read! Thanks Again,

Hi All, I am after a bit of advice regarding ABS faults! At work we have a 1997 (p-reg) 300 tdi xs Discovery which the ABS was working fine on but one day while out on a job with a 16ft trailer in tow the ABS light decieded to come on & stay on! After being cautious during the rest of the journey & returning to the yard it was obvious that the ABS was not working! After some messing about it was noticed that the stop light were also not working, so after investigation the 4 pin brake light switch turned out to be faulty. I see looking at the diagram 2 pins do the stop lights & 2 pins go to the ABS unit. The switch has now been replaced but the light still stays on & no ABS! From what we can see all the ABS sensors are seated ok! So does anyone have any ideas on what the fault could be? or since the switch has been replaced does the system need to be reset? & if so is there a way of doing this without going to a main stealer? Thanks for any help or advice! Regards,

My 3.5 EFi is of 1989 vintage & my rev counter is also connected to the alternator as stated above!

This site is also pretty good for buying & selling & general airgun stuff! http://www.airgunforum.net/

Hi, I fitted a pair of these lights to my Range Rover about 4 months ago & they are a 110% better than the standard ones I removed B) I would have fitted them a long time ago if I had known how good they are! One thing to remember is the bulbs should have the "U" symbol on the numbers on the bulb due to the lights having a plastic front! Taken from the Osram website- "The uppercase "U" indicates a UV-reduced lamp in accordance with ECE requirements (e.g. for use in plastic headlights)" Hope this helps....

That could be the one Jim! This is the pic I found so I will have to have a look under it again tomorrow to see which one it is! Though it looks the same thing! Cheers,

Hi Guys, The selector shaft oil seal on my 89 Range Rover autobox is leaking ATF onto the exhaust downpipe so it needs to be replaced! I have looked on EPC & can't find a part number for it would anybody know what it is or is it a case of ring Ashcrofts? Cheers,

Rog, I am pretty sure I have a good secondhand one of these attached to its mounting bracket if it is of any use & depending how fast you want it! I could have a look tomorrow when I get home from work & post to you Friday! cheers,

Nige is correct

We tow 16ft trailers loaded to 3.5t (inc trailer weight) on a daily basis & use 300tdi discos! The only problem we have is when pulling out of any junctions with any sort of incline (when loaded) 1st gear always seems to be to high & almost kills the engine! ( a wee bit of clutch slipping needed to pull off) Apart from that & uprateing the suspension to stop it pulling the Disco about they seem upto the job!

PMSL I ain't heard that one for a while!

I thought it was the temp sensor for the heated washer jets .....But I could be wrong!

Is it a spy shot of Mr Warnes truck?

Superb job guys well done!

Mine have just dropped on the mat Thanks very much to Jim & Si & everyone else involved

You think right! It's the thermostat for the heated washer jets

Hmmm not sure what I am going to fuel mine on as yet but if I go for the diesel option I might well take you up on the nozzle offer It could also be handy to see how you have constructed your combustion chamber! I have a 52page pdf file here regarding construction/running ect! (can e-mail you a copy if you want one) & it goes on about makeing the combustion chamber relative to the turbo's inducer diameter & square inch area ect As far as ignition goes I have got a ignitor plug from a "propper" jet engine I intend to use & depending on what fuel I use I have a turbine controller box that controls when different things switch in during starting! As for starting I am thinking of going down the compressed air option just because I have that & don't own a leaf blower

I can't see any problems with doing this as I did this once with a V6 Essex engine! Mine was just sat on the garage floor on the sump with a block of wood under the front It was surprisingly stable when running!

Keir, I would be interested to see some photo's off your project when it is done as I am starting to collect parts to make one myself Cheers,

Have a look here Nige they seem to have a large selection of horns http://www.airhorns.co.uk/

No problem! I will have a poke around & see what I can find

At work we have a couple of these... They are very simular to your heater & we had a simular problem with one not so long ago! (not the first time either!) There is a gas solenoid in the gas feed (see your pic below in circle) the best way to test it would be to disconnect the wires to it & apply power to it & it should click! Check the voltage on the label first! Also no need to have the gas on to do this! If it does not click thats your problem & its normally the coil that seems to go on ours! Remove the nut that holds the coil on (black plastic bit) & it will slide off! Replacement coil over here around £20 If it does click the fault must be with whatever switches the power to the solenoid! Ours have a control box as they are controlled via a stat & these boxes do go but not that often & I don't think yours has that as I cant see one in the pics! If you need a coil & can't get one there I might be able to help you out depending on what spec & size it is! (think they are a standard thing) HTH

Sounds like a good idea to me! I would be happy to go with that

Nice tidy job that! Simple but effective