dave88sw
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Posts posted by dave88sw
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The double post takes the big brown wire (other half of the double post is unused), then going anti clockwise on your picture, white, white/orange, white/red.
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Also, when doing the seals, when you pull the first injector out, the whole fuel rail will drain into that one cylinder. There is then potential for that cylinder to hydraulic when you crank it over after refitting the injectors. If you strip all the injectors out, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine, it will spit the diesel out. Don't do it in a confined space, the amount of diesel mist will surprise you.
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These are classic symptoms of injector seal failure and would have been where i would have gone 1st. Did the old fuel pump come out covered in soot? That's a tell tale symptom.
Don't cheap out on the seals, buy genuine, don't forget to set the injector lift after reinstalling them and keep them in order to avoid having to code the injectors to the ecu.
With faults like this, it pays to test things, a fuel pressure gauge would have been cheaper to buy than all the previous parts fitted and would have told you all you need to know.
Was the fuel pump a good brand? Every non VDO/Continental pump i've ever fitted seems to cause the fuel gauge to read wrong and they run out of fuel showing 1/4 tank.
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If you get no engine management light with the ignition then the ecu isn't powering up, 2 quick things to check, one is the main relay, it's in the seat box with the ecu, the other is the earth stud in the base of that box, try sticking a jump lead between there and the negative of the battery. Otherwise i'd be suspicious of the ecu.
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Cutting a hole in the floor is not a nice solution, unfortunately directly above the pump is the aluminium top hat sections that run the length of the floor and one of the steel tub floor crossmembers. Cutting through all that is not only a bad idea above a tank full of petrol, it removes far too much of the strength of the tub floor. The only option really is to drop the tank. I've changed mine a couple of times and if i have to have it out again, ill be swapping the in tank pump for a simple pick up tube and an external fuel pump.
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As it's a puma, the earths are not on the inner wing. The indicator shares an earth wire with the headlight and sidelight and it is fed back through the loom where it earths on a lug on the bulkhead. The most likely cause is a poor connection, carefully inspect the connector to the bulb holder, it's common for the pins on the bulb holder to rust quite badly and although you say you've replaced the bulb holder, the wiring connector side could still be dirty. It can help to bend the pins very slightly in the bulb holder to make better contact. After that, i would look at the large grey multi connector at the bulkhead end of the wing, they're mounted right next to the drip rail on the bulkhead and can end up with some green corroded connections.
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I ordered some e10 compatible stuff from merlin motorsport, i believe it was cohline or something similar. Its been on 2 years and still looks like new and is just as supple as the day i fitted it. It was really quite expensive compared to the long rolls of cheap stuff you can get on ebay but i didnt want to be replacing it after a relatively short period.
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Don't forget to fit a spigot bush! On that subject, i fitted a cheap britpart one and it squawked after 500 miles, had to take the gearbox out again to change it. I sourced a genuine new old stock one from p.a. blanchards and problem solved.
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The self levelling type springs are too soft without the leveller though, my dad has a 92 110 station wagon still fitted with the leveller and it sits down a long way with any weight before pumping back up again after driving a short distance.
I haven't swapped the dampers, they were bought to suit the original setup (1986 110 van). Any recommendations on dampers? I don't mind spending money to solve a problem but I hate spending money on parts that don't help.
Thanks, Dave
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Hi,
I've had my 110 van for about 2 years now, at first on its original springs but later swapped the rears for RKB500300 springs having read this post by lrworkshop:
https://www.lrworkshop.com/blog/defender-new-puma-utility-springs-rkb101111-nrc8045
Despite the expensive new (genuine) rear springs, the suspension is still VERY firm. I've driven a number of TD5 and later 110 station wagons and they aren't nearly as harsh but I can't think why. I can't imagine they are much heavier when empty than a 110 van.
What can I do to soften the suspension other than carrying more weight? The fuel consumption is enough as it is!
Thanks
Dave
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No, alternator is in standard location, my engine is sat further back (r380 box is mounted in LT77 position) so theres loads of room. The belt is about 15mm from the steering box but will never touch.
The belt follows the standard route except I've deleted the hydraulic fan pump and ac compressor. The belt is a 6pk1558
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10 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
Out of interest, did you do an autopsy on the 3.9 or had you just lost interest at that point?
I had totally lost interest I'm afraid. I spent forever trying to stop it binging on fuel, cutting out at junctions and making that awful racket but eventually admitted defeat. I wasnt enjoying driving the car.
It's on the garage floor if anyone wants to pull it to bits
. My extensive googling kept coming back to little ends.
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I'll do a proper write up when I get chance as there seems to be interest in the conversion but to answer a few questions.
The engine is out of a 1996 Toyota/lexus Soarer, it's a "gen 2" 1UZFE. About 250/260bhp. The Soarer version has a mid/rear sump bowl (ls400 has a front sump, wants to occupy the same space as the front axle). It is mated via an adapter from synchro gearboxes to a 300tdi R380 box, I've kept the original ECU and (with a lot of alteration) the original loom so it is running all its original sensors including lambda sensors, although you can megasquirt these easily enough. Engine mounts are custom, welded to the chassis. Some thought had to go into a lot of the connections to the car but really, it wasnt a difficult job.
Theres a great guide to the wiring on the lexus forums, although I found some of it wasnt quite accurate, it pointed me in the right direction.
You will need to alter the RH exhaust manifold but it's fairly simple.
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I only got it on the road yesterday, it was running/driving last Wednesday but I had to wait to get it in for a custom exhaust. I've already done about a hundred miles, grinning ear to ear.
I'll try and find some time over the weekend to do a build thread, it might take some time, this is the third engine conversion in this vehicle 😅. It started off as about 2/3 of a Defender with a 2.5NA in it, i stuck a 300 in it because it was the sensible thing to do but i was never happy with it, then put a 3.9 Rover V8 in but that wasn't in good health (hence this thread) and a rebuilt block would have cost more than this conversion. It's cost me about £3000 but I think it's money well spent.
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Just wanted to update this and say, I've fixed the awful noise. Unfortunately, my fix wont help many people with the same noise from their Rover V8 but on the plus side, it is now much smoother, faster, more economical and just a much nicer vehicle.
I'd recommend to anyone
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https://www.4x4overlander.com/product/nakatanenga-headlight-mounting-kit-ss/
Sit down before you look at the price.
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I should have said, I initially had 10/40 oil in it but switched to 20/50 to see if it would help. If anything it made it worse.
I'll try and get a stethoscope on it but if it's a noisy tappet I doubt I'll get the end of the stethoscope close enough to be able to tell where it's coming from.
Its otherwise running great with plenty of power. I just cant stand that noise.
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It's a strange noise, it's a brand new timing chain, the dizzy drive gear was in very good condition but I didn't check anything in the distributor. Does it not sound a bit heavy for distributor weights?
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I posted on my phone but the video plays fine on my laptop, is anyone else having an issue with the video?
All the plugs are the same colour and none oily (it had a dead lambda so was running a bit rich, I've been checking plug colour for a while).
I'm leaning towards a sticky lifter but I dont understand why it doesnt tick at idle, it's only really as the revs drop.
It's hard to narrow down where the noise is coming from but it sounds very much like it's in the valley.
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I've posted here because it covers various models. The engine is a 3.9 from a 92 RRC but it's in my 1986 110.
Bit of background, I gave the engine a freshen up before fitting including a new cam and lifters, new timing chain and gears and the heads were fully refurbed. It's done about 1200 miles, this noise has always been there once warm, it's not there on a cold start. I've checked the rocker shafts and they're good.
The noise cant be heard when driving, it goes when revving but comes in as the revs fall as you can hear in the video, almost undetectable at idle.
All parts came from Turners but I believe the lifters were in an allmakes box.
It's got fresh 20/50 oil in it.
If anyone has any ideas I'd be very grateful, it's really stopping me enjoying the car.
Thanks, Dave
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https://yrmit.co.uk/product/seat-box-front-panel-lr-defender-series-2-3/
option B is the adapter plate you need.
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5 hours ago, Singr07 said:
Hi do you mean I would need these items? Which front Flange would I need to avoid all these?
Yes, you would need everything there. If you buy the r380 type flange for the seat box, which i believe YRM do, you won't need to replace your seatbox. You will, however, need to cut the LT77 flange off the seatbox, cut the correct opening and rivet the new flange on.
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7 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
The stumpy R380 and the LT77 are the same length and sit in the same position. If replacing the chassis then go for a normal defender R380 gearbox and put the 300tdi engine in the right place. You'll need a pair of the appropriate prop shafts too. Keeps it standard then.
HTH
Mo
If doing this though, you will have to change the front floors, transmission tunnel and seatbox for R380 items (you can buy the front flange for the seatbox to save having to replace the whole seatbox).
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I think i would weigh up whether i would ever get around to it or whether it's most likely to sit outside until there's not enough left to be worth rebuilding.
That's a tough thing to decide (my Dads Defender sat for 11 years before i decided to take it on for him and put it back on the road) but if you're never likely to get it road worthy, it would be better to let somebody else do it. I realise the significance of a CSK too, but if it is a generous offer, you could probably buy a nice, usable Range Rover and have money in your pocket too.
. My extensive googling kept coming back to little ends.
Please help identify Rover V8 noise
in International Forum
Posted
Sorry, only just seen this. Unfortunately i sold it a while back. My dads got a 3.5 Rover V8 that was on carbs (carbs and alternator/starter missing, i think otherwise complete) out of his Defender that he'd sell if that's any good?