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dave88sw last won the day on May 2

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  1. So, I can finally wrap this up. It works perfectly, I've got the TD5 speedo wired as per all the various guides available on here. I then connected pin 1 of the speedo (which takes the 4100 pulses that the transducer outputs and doubles it to 8200 pulses that the 14cux needs) to the speed signal input on the ECU (pin 6) via a 120ohm resistor. Hopefully this is of use to somebody doing a similar conversion.
  2. I guessed they were part of the loom but i bought mine without the loom and made up my own connectors, nobody knows a source for the wired bulb holders? If i can't find them i'll have to think of another way. Thanks Dave
  3. Hi, I've fitted a TD5 dash binnacle to my 110, following retroanaconda's excellent guide. However, my binnacle didnt come with the little bulbs for the heater controls. They're little push and twist bulbs that are wired through the back (not to a circuit board). Does anyone know where I can buy some bulb holders or any other ideas that will work. I know it's not the end of the world if they dont illuminate but it would be nice to have it all working. Thanks Dave
  4. Sorry for the slow reply, i get very little time to play with my series, i'm in the middle of a V8 conversion on my 110 😅. Fridgefreezer, that's a very kind offer, i might take you up on it if i have no luck fiddling with the current gauge. Does anyone know what the sender resistance readings should be? That seems like the logical next step. I did find a previous thread on the same issue, one suggestion was using a 9V voltage regulator instead of the 10V solid state replacements available, what are peoples thoughts on that? Thanks Dave
  5. Thanks, that's useful. I've managed to clarify that the resistor is needed for the Discovery spec YBE100540 if connected directly to the 14cux, otherwise the speed sensor will burn out fairly quickly. (I also own a 96 V8 Discovery, that uses the YBE100540 as standard with 14cux, i did once find a wiring diagram for it and the speed signal goes to the speedo first and then from there to the engine ecu, i can only assume that the speedo head on a disco contains the necessary circuitry to look after the speed sensor). I think for the sake of a quid or 2 to order a 120 ohm resistor from ebay, it would be worth wiring it up with the resistor inline and trying it, i don't want to kill the TD5 speedo. If this works, i'll report back as i'm sure it would be useful to others.
  6. So, I've decided to try the output from the TD5 speedo, it would appear to be exactly what the 14cux needs. I'll report back if it doesnt work. Can anyone advise whether the resistor is necessary/important. I cant find reference to it in any wiring diagram but I understand its built into the original range rover transducer. Is it to protect the transducer/speedo? Electrics are not my strong point... Thanks Dave
  7. That's useful to know, thanks, it would be nice to get the mileage correct as mine only has 90000 on the clock currently. I found this thread: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/51712-def-td5-speedo-transducer/ The second post includes a paragraph from Rave which states that the speedo does double the speed signal, so it sounds like it would provide the perfect signal for the 14cux, has anyone ever used it before? Then, to muddy the waters even more, i found this thread: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102859-speedo-transducer-input-for-14-cux/ This suggests that i need to put a 120 ohm resistor inline on the wire to the 14cux. Can anyone confirm that to be the case or not? Sorry for all the questions, i'm just the type that likes to know what i'm doing, rather than giving something a go and being disappointed when it doesn't work.
  8. Thanks, I know on the earlier range rovers the transducer was inline. The issue with that is that the cables are hard to find these days and the transducer is expensive. (I'd also quite like to have the later electronic speedo) The discovery 1 v8 had a transducer (ybe100540) on the transfer box, this provided the 14cux with the correct speed signal (which as far as I can tell was 8200 pulses per mile) As western says though, the TD5 uses ybe100530 which is 4100 pulses per mile. It is said that this is fine when used to provide a speed signal to the 14cux but if the post I linked to above is correct, the TD5 speedo can provide the correct 8200 pulses per mile. Can anyone confirm that the td5 speedo does in fact output 8200 pulses per mile on pin 1? Thanks
  9. Hi, I have no idea where to post this, as it relates to multiple different vehicles and trying to combine parts from different cars... I'm in the process of fitting a 3.9V8 with the 14cux management to my 1986 110. I want to get everything working as it should, so i've been looking into giving the ECU the speed signal it needs. To that end, studying wiring diagrams, it would appear that the speed signal comes straight from the speed sensor (transducer) on a Range Rover/Discovery. Please, correct me if im wrong but Discovery/Range Rover speed sensors provide 8200 pulses per mile? I've also found posts from 1 or 2 people who have used a TD5 speedo and transducer with the 14cux and they say it works, although, i've read that the TD5 speed transducer only produces 4100 pulses per mile. (theory being that the 14cux only really needs to see a signal of some description when it's moving, nothing too precise). So, looking into TD5 speedos, i stumbled across this post: https://nas-row.com/index.php?threads/td5-speedo-in-a-300tdi-truck.868/ 3rd post in. The image they've attached suggests that pin 1 doubles the signal to send it to the ecu (when used in a TD5). So, my question is, if i were to use a TD5 speedo, would it be best to wire the 14cux speed signal directly to the transducer output, or wire it to pin 1 on the speedo. It would seem that pin 1 outputs exactly what the 14cux is looking for, or is it not that simple? Thanks Dave
  10. Thanks for the replies, I had guessed it was probably the gauge, but i guess i was quietly hoping it wasn't (they're over £100). I'll report back if i actually manage to sort it out as it would appear others have had the same issue.
  11. Also, to add to that list, i changed the thermostat for the lower temp 72 degree one with no change.
  12. Hi, I've got an ongoing problem with my series 3 2.25 petrol. The temperature gauge needle wants to sit just below the red section of the gauge, well above the "N". It definitely isn't getting hot, i can comfortably hold the top hose while the needle is telling me it's about to boil over, i can drive for over 50 miles and it doesn't overheat and i've checked with a laser thermometer that the engine itself isn't getting hot. It never loses any water, the fan belt is tight and it's had a recent coolant change. In an attempt to cure this issue i have: Changed the voltage stabiliser for a solid state modern replacement (fuel gauge works perfectly) Checked the earth attached to the gauge unit Added additional earths between bulkhead/engine and engine/chassis Checked the cleanliness of all connection on the wire between the gauge and the sender unit Changed the sender for multiple different brands (tried genuine, intermotor etc, all the same) I've owned this car for 15 years, since i was 14 years old and unfortunately, this issue is preventing me from driving it, i can't stand looking at the gauge telling me it's overheating. I've considered fitting an aftermarket gauge and sender, however, i really don't want to just work round the problem, i want to fix the original. Any help would be massively appreciated, i'm at my wits end with it. Thanks Dave
  13. If you're in Bristol, Advanced Autocooling on the trading estate at Avon Valley are very good, had a few radiators re-cored by him.
  14. Thank you very much for the suggestions, john eales has some in stock so I've ordered a set. I was aware there are 2 kits but I believe they're interchangeable? Only difference being the Buick kit has the extra 4 studs for 14 bolt heads. Mines a bit of a mix, being a 14 bolt block but with 10 bolt heads so I can use composite gaskets. Thanks again Dave
  15. Sorry, i didn't word that very well, Real Steel would normally have them but they're out of stock for at least 2 weeks. I've asked them to contact me when they come in and if necessary i'll wait but I really would like to get this build moving. I just wondered if there was anyone i'd forgotten that might have them in stock. Thanks Dave
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