Jump to content

dave88sw

Settled In
  • Content Count

    848
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

dave88sw last won the day on April 4 2018

dave88sw had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

32 Excellent

About dave88sw

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bath

Recent Profile Visitors

1,099 profile views
  1. I have a 110 i've just finished rebuilding, as part of the rebuild, i converted it from a 2.5na to a 300tdi with r380 box. However, it's a Discovery box, fitted with ashcrofts selector rail adapter and the top housing from the LT77 (with the reverse plunger removed for obvious reasons). I then used the LT77 gear stick with a new r380 knob on the top. It's all fitted as the LT77 would be so that i didnt have to alter the floors. I've fitted an xdefend pedal lock already, as well as a few other security measures but a friends Defender was stolen locally last Saturday and found in a field, seemingly dragged onto it's roof to steal its wheels (definitely pulled over, not rolled while driving) and it's got me paranoid about protecting mine. I like the look of the gear lever lock, as combined with the pedal lock it would be all but impossible to steal without making lots of noise and it wouldn't be towable. However, they are different for LT77/R380, but can anybody tell me what it is exactly that's different? As the parts are clearly all somewhat interchangeable, is it just the throw of the gearstick? Thanks Dave
  2. Make sure you have a good connection on the battery terminals. Then, try putting a jump lead between the battery negative and the engine, the lifting eye is usually a decent place. If that works, you have a broken/poor earth wire.
  3. santorini black has a LOT of glitter in it, up close it has lots of different colours in the metal flake. I think Java and Beluga are pretty much just "gloss black". A friend had a 90 painted Aintree green with a java black roof, looked nice.
  4. The discovery speedo drive gear in the transfer box has a smaller square drive. You need to swap it for the Defender one and make sure you get the correct one to suit your tyre size.
  5. Having taken the nearside wing off a td5 in the last couple of days, one bit of advice i can give you: The alarm siren is mounted to the wing, it'll come with it but if you just disconnect the loom at the multi-plug (clipped to the heater box, you need to slide it off the mount before unplugging it, the tab it's slid on locks the connector together, to get it off you need to lift the little clip that latches it to the bracket it's on. You won't be able to see what you're doing, you do it by feel) the alarm will sound until its internal battery dies. To get around this, you need to turn the ignition on, then off and within 10-15 seconds disconnect the vehicle battery. The inner and outer wing are connected by the wheel arch eyebrow, it's very awkward if not impossible to remove the outer wing and leave the inner behind without removing the eyebrow. You can lift the complete inner and outer wing off as one and that is possible with the eyebrow still on but it makes getting at the wing to bulkhead bolts very awkward. Having removed countless defender wings over the years, i would now always remove the eyebrow. (Buy new plastic rivets, you WILL lose all the centre pins when you push them out, britpart ones are a bit poorly made, i prefer the bearmach ones but genuine are best). I think if i was working alone on a car with nice paint, the safest method i have found is to remove the outer and leave the inner to remove later if it's in the way. Removing the whole assembly requires wiggling it past pipes and the shock turret and presents many chances to scratch the paint.
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsDUCdc2pAQ 1:34 in, he shows the injector pressures. I know they will run with a manual pump and edc injectors but like i said, i have no idea what long term problems it would cause if any.
  7. The engine is the same, its just the fuel pump and injectors that are different. Fit a standard manual fuel pump and injectors and it'll all be fine. (Some people don't bother changing the injectors, it will run on the originals but the "pop" pressure is different, don't really know what effect that has though)
  8. You need to allow the belt to return a little while the reel is held in the correct orientation. If there's already so much on the reel that it wont return by itself you need to make sure you keep it in the correct orientation and then with your other hand roll the reel round slightly further, only needs to be about half an inch, then pull it out. If you don't let it return the mechanism won't release.
  9. Hi, I'm hoping to get some painting done tomorrow, the paint i've bought is from the paintman, i've got a tin of grey primer and a tin of white top coat. I've used the top coat straight over sound paint in the past with just a good key of the surface, it seems to take about 3-4 hours to touch dry but at least overnight to really set. Can anyone give me an idea of how long i need to let the primer dry before i key it for the top coat? I'd imagine it's not as long as the top coat, it would be great to get the primer and top coat on tomorrow if possible. Thanks Dave
  10. The lifting bracket bolts to the back of the head i think? Not the head bolt. Even so, either method would be fine, a little trick for fitting the head in the car is to insert the rear 2 head bolts into the head before offering it up to the engine, if you lift them so that the end of the bolt is just above the deck of the head and then cable tie the 2 together to put a little side tension on them, they won't drop down and get in the way. Once in the car it's no trouble getting a socket and extension on there.
  11. They are but they're bonded on, would be an absolute nightmare to remove without breaking it, you then have to source and fit the original side window assembly and probably repaint because you'll never get the adhesive off without ruining the paint so by the time you've done all that, sourcing a second hand set of sides is probably cheaper.
  12. I would put money on the loom being chaffed where it crosses over the top of the transfer box, particularly if it does it when you lift off and the transfer box shifts on its mounts... Remove cubby box and access panel beneath and check the loom thoroughly.
  13. Hi, I recently fitted a double s stainless cat back exhaust system to my 96 v8 discovery. At that point it had the standard downpipes with good cats. I was quite pleased with it but did notice if I left it idling for a while or if I'd been on the overrun for a little while, when I then accelerated away I'd get a funny parp from the exhaust for a few seconds, like a high pitched buzz. It never really bothered me because it was only very occasional. The cats later failed and started rattling and as a temporary solution I've put a non cat downpipe on just because I had one kicking about. Now the resonance is much worse, any engine braking results in lots of loud buzzing when I get back on the throttle and it's quite loud. A bit of reading on the internet suggests stainless exhausts are particularly prone to resonating but what can I do to stop it? I dont want to lose the stainless system as it was quite expensive. I've seen resonated exhaust tips suggested but have no experience of them, would they be worth a go? Thanks Dave
  14. I've just finished putting relays into my lighting loom. It was really quite simple, needs only 2 relays and keeps all lights fused by their original fuses. The lighting circuit is fairly simple, big brown wire (permanent 12v live) feeds the main headlight switch, headlight switch directly feeds sidelights, second click of switch puts power out on a solid blue wire. This wire goes through the loom to the fusebox where it goes through a relay (ignition switched relay, purely turns the lights off when the key is turned off, it doesn't take any load off the switch). The blue wire then returns to the indicator stalk which acts as a changeover switch between dip and main beam. Dip beam feed is then on a blue/red wire and main beam on a blue/white leaving the indicator stalk. Before these wires reach the fusebox they T off into 2 to feed lh and rh lamps. Fused feed then goes to headlights. What i did was cut and extend the wires just after they leave the indicator stalk, use the feeds from the indicator stalk to trigger the relays on pin 85, pin 86 to earth (One relay for dip and one for main). Take a nice chunky live feed to the Relays (Wise to fuse this wire at around 15amps, it will see the load of both lights) on the switching side (i.e. pin 87 or 30) then the other terminal to the wire in the loom where you cut it from the indicator stalk. Doing it like this, you only need 2 relays, you keep all your factory fuses doing their original job, it can all be hidden behind the dash (mine are in relay holders screwed to the bulkhead alongside heated rear window voltage sensitive switch), you don't have to touch the loom in the wings and you take all the load off the switches. Hope that helps somebody. Dave
  15. I think the reason they don't fold is that when the base is folded up, it fouls on the backrest of the middle row seats. That's just from memory though, i might be totally wrong.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy