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dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on April 4

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About dave88sw

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    Bath

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  1. Spark plugs for 4.6 P38 on LPG

    Right, i'll go with the BPR6ES plugs then, i've ordered some new leads to go on at the same time so it'll all be new. It has a spark plug box taped to the air compressor lid with 95k written on it (on 109k now) so i'm hoping they'll come out without any drama. Now to find a lower steering column... Does it ever end?
  2. As the title suggests, i'm looking for suggestions for the best option for spark plugs for a 2001 Thor engined 4.6 P38. It has LPG on it, which i use occasionally but it does most of it's miles on petrol. Think i'm right in saying the bosch engined ones had platinum plugs as standard which are a bit expensive but most people seem to suggest just using NGK BPR6ES plugs and changing them more often. Thoughts on this? I'm happy to change them every 10k
  3. How to deal with rust bubbles?

    I should have said, I used a rust converter previously and removed the windows completely to do it. When I replaced the windows I put a thin bead of sealant inside the seal lip to prevent water getting in there. The bubbles coming through now arent really under the seal, they're just below, on the ridge in the roof beneath the window. Is por15 as good as its cracked up to be?
  4. Thought i'd post this here as it applies to rust on any car body panel... I have a few small rust bubbles coming through the paint around the alpine windows on my discovery 1. I rubbed them back (the steelwork appears pretty sound, just starting to rust rather than completely rotten and full of holes) and etch primed and top coated about 3 years ago but they're just starting again. What advice would you give for a longer lasting repair. At this stage i'm less concerned about aesthetics and more concerned about applying a coating that'll prevent it from going into holes. I did buy some bilt hamber zinc rich primer for the job but it says on the tin to give it 7 days drying time before over painting. Given i have nowhere to store it indoors, should i use it for this job? I assume it would skin over within a few hours but is it likely to work if it's kept outdoors in the inevitable rain? Dave
  5. I think that's actually the air suspension compressor inlet. Assuming that pipe is going up the lh rear quarter. Either way it should come apart as Bowie said
  6. Help..odd problem

    If you can get it plugged in that's the best place to start (Had similar rough running issues when the big capacitors in the ecu that fire the injectors fail - often comes up as "topside switch failure") Otherwise my guess would be injector seals, very common to misfire/cutout and then restart when everything has cooled.
  7. Series 3

    Battery being drained and not recharging... Have you checked the alternator output? Or the condition of the battery?
  8. Swing Away Spare Wheel Carrier of choice?

    I've fitted a couple of britpart ones for people and in all fairness, they appear to be pretty well made. One was over 2.5 years ago and it still looks like new, no paint peeling etc and a very reasonable price from island4x4.
  9. EAS Fault

    Just to tie this thread up, it was a LH rear height sensor, replaced with a new genuine one and it's all working fine again... for now.
  10. Another R380 Defender stuck in gear

    Picture borrowed from elsewhere, that's what you're looking for, you have to remove the reverse light switch to get an allen key in to tighten the grub screw.
  11. Another R380 Defender stuck in gear

    When you say you have removed the top, do you mean you've removed the whole selector housing? You should be able to see inside the box through a rectangular hole if removed where i suggested above, not just the gearstick turret which you can remove seperately. Your symptoms fit with the grub screw coming loose. If it's not that, it's probably gearbox rebuild time.
  12. Sealing cables from engine bay

    I appreciate the offer but i've just emailed a breaker asking about a number of parts and he can do both for a very reasonable price so i think i'm all sorted. Thanks anyway.
  13. EAS Fault

    I don't personally have any diagnostics yet, i'm trying to justify the cost of a nanocom to myself but i know a very knowledgeable man with testbook... It got me home fine and appears to still be trying to build pressure, it has stayed up all night too, the inflation kit is just for peace of mind in the future if it fails miles from home. As i say though, the compressor is running far too often (last trip i don't think it stopped at all) and with it's history a rebuild kit won't hurt. It might well be something else but the compressor has been on the to-do list anyway. Thanks
  14. Sealing cables from engine bay

    I hope you don't mind me tagging on this thread, my dads lost the grommet plates you have pictured above during his bulkhead change. I've just found the price for new ones (£30 each!!) and can't really afford to spend that much. Does anybody know the part number for the later td5 ones which are all rubber and just squeeze into the oval tubes behind? Or does anyone have a completely different alternative?
  15. EAS Fault

    Thanks John, appreciate it. Took it out again tonight, starts off all working fine but compressor doesn't stop running, eventually flashes up eas fault, presumably when the compressor overheats. I'm guessing it's struggling to build pressure so i'll stick a rebuild kit in it before going any further. I'll stop using it for now. Can't really blame it, i think the previous owner ran it for months/years with leaking springs.
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