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dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on April 4 2018

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About dave88sw

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  1. dave88sw

    4.6 inlet on a 3.5?

    I hadn't considered the servo take off - which is stupid really, as i owned a P38 not long ago... Thanks for all your replies, i'll mix and match the bits to end up with everything i need, but it sounds like i can't go far wrong with it. Thanks Dave
  2. dave88sw

    LT77 to R380 conversion

    I appreciate the suggestion and although it would almost certainly be easier, i can get hold of a standard R380 fairly cheaply. Also, if i'm going to fit a 300tdi, i'll have to alter the engine mounts anyway so i could quite easily move them forward. I'm just not sure whether i can leave the transfer box where it is or not, it would save a fair bit of time and money if i could. Thanks Dave
  3. dave88sw

    4.6 inlet on a 3.5?

    Hi, I'm in the process of converting my dads V8 defender to megasquirt. The engine was a 3.5 flapper from an early range rover so we sourced another inlet manifold with the later injectors. The manifold is from a 4.6 gems V8 P38 Range Rover. I'm at the stage now where the loom is made and i can fit the plenum but I'm not sure about the trumpets. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the 4.6 trumpets on a 3.5? I understand they're different lengths depending on the engine size but what are the upsides/downsides of each? I still have the 3.5 inlet i can take the trumpets and base plate off if necessary. Many thanks Dave
  4. dave88sw

    LT77 to R380 conversion

    Hi, I'm thinking of changing the LT77 in my 110 to an R380 (It's currently a NA with LT77 and 1.6 transfer). I can get hold of a 1.4 transfer, R380 and 300TDI. I've done a few engine conversions before, that part of it is fine but i'm not sure on the best course to take with the gearbox. Most people seem to suggest putting the whole lot in the later standard position, which I believe is slightly forward of where the original drivetrain was mounted (If we use the transfer box as a reference point, apparently the whole lot sits about 40mm further forward). This would mean changing the props to 300 type. Is it possible to leave the transfer box in the standard position and just push the engine forward to account for the longer bellhousing? I've found no definitive answer to that but a few comments that it means you can't use standard hoses (not too fussed about that, i'd rather make up some hoses than chop the seatbox and floors about and have to source props). Does anybody have any experience of doing it this way? Many thanks Dave
  5. dave88sw

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    The fact that they block up in time says to me that they're doing a good job catching all the crud. Personally, i wouldn't want to bypass it, a seal kit for the sediment bowl is not expensive and it doesnt take long at all to take off the bowl and clean it out.
  6. dave88sw

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    As above, or, i've had similar symptoms with a blocked fuel sedimentor, not the filter under the bonnet, the sediment bowl on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail back by the fuel tank.
  7. dave88sw

    Is this practical

    I love the T5 idea, i've had both a phase 2 T5 V70 and now a phase 1 V70R. It's a cracking engine that i've often thought of putting in a Land Rover, obviously any engine conversion is going to present problems but the one i can't get past is the plastic timing chest. On an off road vehicle, it's likely to fill with mud and throw the belt off.
  8. dave88sw

    Wheels !

    I'd be putting a caliper on then... Would appear to be sticking if you're frequently warping discs on just that corner.
  9. dave88sw

    Discovery 1 seat alternatives

    The seat base foam and cover from a passenger seat fits the drivers side and couldnt be easier to fit...
  10. Hi, I've got a very strange problem to try and get to the bottom of. It's a 2010 Defender TDCI that was all running fine until the other day. It starts normally on the key and runs absolutely fine until i touch the brake pedal or put it in reverse. As soon as i do either, it cuts out. I've disconnected the brake light switch and the reverse light switch and the vehicle then runs and drives absolutely fine, but this obviously isn't a lasting fix as i need the lights working. Does anyone have any ideas? At this stage i don't know where to even begin. Thanks Dave
  11. dave88sw

    Hi / low problem

    On the top of the transfer box is a short rectangular housing held down with 6 bolts, the high/low selector arm enters through the end of the housing and a little finger pushes the selector inside the transfer box to shift ratios. If you remove that housing, inside is a grub screw that often comes loose, attaching the selector "finger" to the selector rod. The result of which is that everything looks like it is moving properly externally but nothing happens inside the transfer box when you go to shift.
  12. dave88sw

    New TD5 fuel pump but now engine cuts out

    Was the old pump covered in black sooty deposits? Sounds like the injector washers are blowing by.
  13. dave88sw

    Using a Rivnut tool help

    I've got the same one, there's no real instruction as to how far you screw it onto the rivnut, only how to assemble the tool. It's a bit of guesswork really, i basically look at the rivnut and estimate how long the section that collapses is (the bit between the thread and the flange), then with the arms of the tool together, screw the rivnut on until it stops, open the arms and then screw the rivnut on the length you estimated, insert the rivnut in the hole and squeeze the arms together with a reasonable force or until they touch without going overboard. Then unscrew the tool and check it's reasonably tightly set in the hole. As long as it isn't loose enough to rotate as you thread a bolt in it should be fine, it will pinch up when you tighten the bolt.
  14. dave88sw

    Disco 2 or Disco 3 ..... Discuss!

    I'd echo Muddy, put a new chassis under yours. Have you driven a Discovery 3? I personally hate driving them, they go well but the handling is awful, feels like your driving a double decker with soggy suspension. I also hate the interior, the seats give me arse ache in 5 minutes, they're very typical of Ford; rock hard and no shape. Mine isn't a popular opinion, most seem to like them but it would be worth trying one out before you search for one. You also need deep pockets for repairs to a Discovery 3, remember they were a very expensive car when new and although the purchase price has dropped, you're still paying expensive car maintenance costs. You will NEED to be friendly with someone who has a Land Rover friendly diagnostic set up.
  15. dave88sw

    Running hot

    I've already changed it for a solid state one in the hope that was the problem but no change. Thanks for the suggestion though
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