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dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on December 31 2014

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About dave88sw

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  1. Possible immobiliser issue

    As a starting point, i'd pull the small trigger lead off the starter and check with a multi meter that you're getting 12v when the key is turned to crank, it could simply be a failed starter. Is it manual? You could bump start it to get it home. They were known for issues, particularly with the "spider" unit in behind the stereo, you used to be able to get a bypass, don't know if they're still available. Hope that helps
  2. Similar problem, hopefully a solution there for you.
  3. Parts rant!!!

    I just order everything from Brit-car these days. They have a range of brands, most things have a picture, prices are good. Had a problem with a brake servo for my series (one way valve was a different size, could well have been an oddity with my vehicle), they ordered in another brand that had a one way valve included and swapped it with no fuss.
  4. Discovery V8 Cat downpipe differences?

    Thanks for the replies. I did notice the slight change in length after the 2 pipes join but i wondered if the overall length was the same, obviously not, that's a shame. I probably could get the mating face machined but i was hoping to minimise the time the downpipe was off the car and i did fancy a stainless downpipe to go with the rest of the system. I didn't think £270 was out of the way for a pair of cats but i don't want to spend near double that. I have standard cast manifolds, i've changed the manifold to head gaskets for composite type ones with fire rings, i'm confident there's no leak there, every time i take the downpipe off, the right hand gasket has a witness mark where it's been blowing. The noise is 100% from the exhaust. I'll see what i've got to do this weekend but with any luck i might try and get the downpipe off again and see if i can sand it flat. Thanks again Dave
  5. Hi, A little while ago i posted about the difficulty i was having sealing the manifold to downpipe joint. It was always blowing out the same place and i can only assume the mating flange on the downpipe is warped. I initially decided to bite the bullet and buy a new stainless steel downpipe from rimmer bros as i already have a stainless centre and rear section. Unfortunately, as always seems to be the case, my car would appear to need the more expensive option. My Discovery is a 1996 with a VA chassis number, which should have ESR3730: https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ESR3730P However, ESR3063 is much cheaper: https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ESR3063P Can anyone tell me what the differences are and whether they're likely to be interchangeable. I should probably say, I'm fairly sure it actually currently has a downpipe from an earlier car on it anyway but i can't be sure of it's age because it came from a breaker I know but he was fairly confident it was off a late Range Rover classic, he says he's never broken a V8 Discovery. He allowed me to take it away and return it if it didn't fit but it was identical to the original. Thanks Dave
  6. 200tdi battery recommendations

    I bought my series 11 years ago and the battery gave up the next day, bought a Numax battery locally and it's still in there and is still as strong as the day i bought it. Based on that i now have Numax batteries in both my Discovery and my daily BMW too with no complaints. The 2 more recent ones came from Tayna batteries and i can't fault the service.
  7. 110 CSW 300Tdi shock absorber advice needed.

    That price from paddocks is ridiculous... Few options, all OEM quality suppliers: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/209341/377/shock_absorber_front_110___130_defender_from_vin_xa_on http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/420598/377/shock_abs_front_110_130_pre_td5_defender Even genuine parts: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/90486/377/shock_absorber_front_110___130_defender_from_vin_xa_on
  8. SU carburetters

    This will be to replace a Webber 32/34dmtl set up off an early 90/110 that has been the most unreliable thing in the world so I'm hoping for swiss watch with the SU!! You're a star, having found the ACR kit uses the HS6, i just assumed that would be the best option, i hadn't even considered the possibility of an HIF. As it happens, my dads old 3.5 V8 with twin HIF6's (google tells me the HIF6 is 1.75" and the HIF44 is 44mm so effectively the same thing with most parts interchangeable) is sat in the garage, he's gone for megasquirt so they're spare. I'll find out what needles they have and take your suggestion of a BGB needle. Thanks again! Dave
  9. SU carburetters

    Hi, I'm looking for some help deciding which SU carb to use on my series 2.25. I've managed to get hold of an adaptor to use an HS6 but I know very little about carburetters to be honest. I've read a lot of the technical pages on the su carb companies website but understandably, they're written mostly as refurb information for existing applications. Obviously, a 2.25 never left the factory with an su carb so i have no standard application to look at. Am i right in thinking that they all had the same jet size and the needle was altered to suit the application? Jets never seem to be labelled by size whenever i've seen rebuild kits so i assume they are all the same size. Can anyone recommend a needle size to suit the 2.25 engine? I know ACR do an HS6 conversion kit and supply the carb ready to go. Does anybody know what needle/jet combination they use? Seems cheeky asking them if i'm not going to buy it from them! I also have an HS4c carb lying around which does fit the adaptor. I was going to fit this as it actually came off a 2.25 but besides being seized up (ive freed most of it but the jet is seized), it appears to be quite difficult to find rebuild parts for the HS4c and I doubt it's big enough to supply the 2.25? Any suggestions welcome, i've read so much information but i'm still none the wiser. Thanks Dave
  10. Question for any audio experts

    Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the help, really appreciate it. Yes, in an ideal world we'd change out the head unit for something better but at the end of the day, this Discovery is used mostly for a bit of off roading fun and being a Land Rover, a decent sound system would be wasted on it. I've wired it up to the rear speaker outputs and it seems to be working very well. My friend is certainly happy with it so mission accomplished. Thanks again Dave
  11. Question for any audio experts

    I'll probably upgrade the standard paper cone speakers to some 4" kenwoods, i'm certainly happy with mine with that setup. I don't think distortion is too much of an issue, i find i have mine on a much lower volume with the sub. As you say, all i can do is try it and if it doesn't work i'll have to rethink it. Thanks Dave
  12. Broken shock, again. Why?

    As said above, 2" lift and standard length shocks is bound to end up in breakages. Fit 2" lowered shock mounts or better yet extended shocks.
  13. Hi, I've got a Kenwood underseat sub in my Discovery (just a little thing like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Under-Seat-150W-Active-Amplified-Powered-Subwoofer-Sub/171165909764?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 ) as well as the original rear sub and 4 speakers. Both the rear door sub and the underseat one run off the same pre-outs on the head unit (only 1 pair so split between the 2) and all works perfectly. My friend (who also has a disco) was with me in the car the other day and commented on how good the sound was and has asked if i'll do something similar in his disco. His disco was a base spec so has no rear door sub woofer (not a big issue really, the underseat one is better, i only wired my rear sub up because it seemed stupid to have it sat there doing nothing) and he has an aftermarket head unit with no rca outputs. Now, the sub i've linked to above is capable of taking pre-amp input or speaker level inputs. Is there any reason why i couldn't use the rear speaker feeds to drive the subs amplifier as well as the speakers themselves? Basically, do i have to sacrifice the rear speakers in favour of the sub or is it ok to have both, i imagine the subs amplifier is only using the feed for a signal and so wouldn't overload the head unit's built in amp? Thanks Dave
  14. Electronic immobilisation

    The vehicle will run quite happily with the wrong injector codes for the purposes of testing, although it is obviously best to programme the correct codes for prolonged use. If you have a working remote key matched to that specific bcu, there is no reason why it should end up immobilised. Take the eka for the vehicle the bcu was originally fitted to and keep it with whichever vehicle it ends up in. If the vehicle spec differs it can all be programmed later anyway, the vehicle will still run, the only bit that matters is whether its auto/manual.
  15. Electronic immobilisation

    If the 2 vehicles are the same spec, you can take the bcu, with a matched remote key and engine ecu from the working vehicle and it should start the other car. Unfortunately, the mileage is stored in the bcu and the instrument binnacle and if the 2 values don't match, the odometer will flash (if you have the whole car you could swap the instrument binnacle over). You can tell the bcu to update to fix the flashing odometer but it will take the higher of the 2 mileages as far as i know. If the car isn't responding to the remote key, have you tried a new remote receiver in the headlining?
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