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dave88sw last won the day on May 2

dave88sw had the most liked content!


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  1. If you're in Bristol, Advanced Autocooling on the trading estate at Avon Valley are very good, had a few radiators re-cored by him.
  2. Thank you very much for the suggestions, john eales has some in stock so I've ordered a set. I was aware there are 2 kits but I believe they're interchangeable? Only difference being the Buick kit has the extra 4 studs for 14 bolt heads. Mines a bit of a mix, being a 14 bolt block but with 10 bolt heads so I can use composite gaskets. Thanks again Dave
  3. Sorry, i didn't word that very well, Real Steel would normally have them but they're out of stock for at least 2 weeks. I've asked them to contact me when they come in and if necessary i'll wait but I really would like to get this build moving. I just wondered if there was anyone i'd forgotten that might have them in stock. Thanks Dave
  4. Hi, I'm in the process of rebuilding my 3.9V8, i want to use ARP head studs but i can't find anyone with any stock at the moment. Does anybody know of someone who stocks them? I've tried Real Steel, Rimmer Bros, V8Tuner and lots of the other generic ARP dealers. They're all currently out of stock but i could really do with getting the heads on soon and don't really want to use bolts. Thanks Dave
  5. As we're on the subject of batteries, i bought a Numax 072 for my series 3 more than 15 years ago, it's been allowed to go dead flat (radio drain) on many occasions, sometimes for whole winters. Despite that, it still holds a good charge and cranks the series over pretty strong, even when the fuel has drained back and it needs to spin over a fair bit. I'm so impressed with it that i'll only fit Numax batteries to my cars now.
  6. Had the same thing happen before, the height sensor failed, car thought the suspension was low that side so kept pumping the spring until it exploded. Buy a genuine height sensor for replacement unless you have a diagnostic computer that can calibrate the cars height. I've found all the aftermarket sensors have a slightly different reading to the original part so if you only change one, the car sits with a lean.
  7. Well, i got my head back from the engineers, they gave it a very light skim apparently. Checked the block, absolutely nothing wrong there and all the bolt holes were clean. Nevertheless, i thoroughly flushed out the holes, wound an old bolt in to each one in turn to measure the depth and all are the same, no tight spots on the threads etc. I'll try and add some pics of the gasket soon, but not only had it burnt through from no 3 and 4 into the triangular coolant passage, no 1 had also burned through the fire ring but hadnt yet burned through to coolant/oil passageways. So, the original gasket (that only lasted 5000 miles) was ordered online, it came in an elring branded package and i had no reason to think there was anything wrong with it. However, the new one came from a local spares place that i absolutely trust, it too was in an elring branded package but there are a number of differences between the 2. Mostly in the markings on the gasket, there is a small impression of the elring logo on both, but on the new gasket, the logo is bigger, also, the "top" marking is much bigger on the new gasket. It's difficult to say because its been almost a year since i fitted the last one but i think the coating on the new gasket is "stickier" too. Anyway, it's now back together again and running well, i borrowed a snap on digital torque wrench (that also does angles) to put the head on. It's nice to use because it beeps when you reach the required angle but also tells you what torque was required to achieve that angle, which is nice because it gives you a good idea if any of them have bottomed out or are tight in the threads. I'm happy to say, they were all very similar. Time will tell if it lasts this time. Thanks Dave
  8. Heater was working lovely, it was definitely circulating water, I'm confident it wasnt overheating but I do have concerns that perhaps the cylinder temp was too high with the boost pin fitted (I.e. cooling system coping but excess fuel causing high cylinder temp). As an aside, would the timing spacer ring be an issue if it was left in without the boost pin? Most people seem to suggest the 2 go together but i did find a post suggesting small gains with standard fuelling, theoretically lowering egt. Thanks Dave
  9. Thanks for the replies, the water pump was new at the same time as the last head gasket, so it's only 5000 miles old. It's not shown any sign of overheating at all, the needle always sits in the middle, which is what makes the sudden failure of the gasket so surprising. I carefully checked the gasket before fitting and it was torqued down with a snap on digital torque wrench. The torque wrench also does the angle settings but i put a spot of paint on one of the points of the hex of the bolt and the head to check the accuracy too (each point on the bolt head should be 60 degrees apart). I checked the block with a straight edge and the head was skimmed prior to fitting so must have been flat. Is it likely to be anything to do with having the boost pin fitted? It's not particularly smokey, small amount of black smoke when accelerating up a hill but that's to be expected. I only fitted it because the car has a 1.2 transfer box and as such is a bit too high geared. I'm now thinking about removing the pin and trying to source a 1.4 transfer box. Thanks Dave
  10. Hi, I rebuilt the engine in my 110 last year, including a new elring head gasket and bolts. The head was skimmed and pressure tested by a good machine shop. I've done 5000 miles since, running well with good power. It has a boost pin and timing advance spacer fitted but the boost has not been turned up, it's done no towing, never been overheated, never lost a drop of water until last night. I was driving home, all running fine, not even up to temp yet when I noticed plumes of white smoke behind me. I pulled over immediately and it near immediately cut out. Opened the bonnet, it was spewing water out the header tank but it wasnt particularly hot water, thought I'd just see if it would fire up again but it wouldnt turn over. So. I took the glow plugs out, turned the engine, number 3 and 4 full of coolant. I then took the head off, block and head both look ok but I've dropped the head with the engineer again for a check. The gasket had blown between 3 and 4 into the triangular coolant passageway. I am absolutely confident it was fitted properly, I've done more 300 heads than I care to remember but ive never known one go after 5000 miles. Has anyone got any suggestions for things I should check? I really don't want to be doing it again. Thanks Dave
  11. As far as i'm aware there were no differences in the block. Happy to be proven wrong though. Lots of little differences in the top end, injectors are different, fuel rail set up, egr cooler (really late ones had a square fuel cooler which was much better sealed than the earlier tube type) etc
  12. If the fuel pressure regulator has an extra pipe that goes forward along the side of the head behind the inlet manifold to a fitting screwed in at the front of the head, right behind the sprung loaded timing chain tensioner, it is a 15p. If it only has 2 pipes attached to it, it's a 10p engine. Land Rover made the fuel return external on the later engines, rather than an internal channel in an attempt to stop the head cracking and filling the sump with diesel (although it wasn't a complete cure).
  13. Thanks for the replies, really helpful! I did look at the hex screw on the inlet pondering what it was for, I'll wind it in and see what happens. I have blocked off the IAC valve ports so there should be no external air leaks. Thanks again Dave
  14. Hi, My dad and I have just got his 3.5 V8 Defender running on megasquirt. It was a complete kit from Megasquirtv8 loaded with a base map. It seems to run very well, but although it idles around 900rpm on cold start (i'd guess that's about right as it's in warm up mode), the idle speed seems to increase as it warms up, ending up about 1200-1300rpm. The target idle speed is set at 830rpm, but we've tried dropping it with no change. We have calibrated the TPS and again, no change. It has no IAC valve, so as i understand it, it's to be expected that the Idle is higher than usual but this does seem excessive. The throttle flap would appear to be basically fully closed and we've checked for inlet leaks and can't find anything. I should say, it's not actually been on the road yet, so no tuning has been done but it would be nice to know how we might be able to get the idle down. Thanks in advance, Dave
  15. This is something that concerns me, particularly when they launch E10 this year. What's the solution? Is there anything resistant to ethanol that will last well?
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