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dave88sw last won the day on December 31 2014

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About dave88sw

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  1. I can't think the car could have slipped into difflock. Although you don't have the linkage to activate it, a lot of boxes still had the lock fitted just without the link to activate it, however, to activate it requires a turn of a spigot that sticks out the top of the box, it's highly unlikely it could have slipped in. Regarding the sloppy gear selector, there's very little to the shifter that's inside the car, it just pushes and pulls on a cable. It's possible the bracket on the side of the box that holds the outer cable sleeve has worked loose or it could be the shifter arm on the side of the box has come loose on it's spigot. The position switch monitoring fault will almost certainly be the XYZ switch on the side of the box. If it gets wet it will play up. You'd normally find the "M" and "s" lights flash on the dash when it has a current fault with the switch but turning the ignition off and back on again will normally clear it. My experience is that the reverse track of the switch fails first as it has quite a high load on it with the reverse lights being fed off it. Thus it puts the m and s lights on every time you shift through reverse. To avoid it you can switch off and restart in neutral, shifting straight to drive.
  2. They take much the same route on a RHD car and every one i've done i've had to take the radiator out, i don't think there's a quick way round it. It is only the main coolant radiator that has to come out though.
  3. It sounds like you have a 300tdi edc engine. If this is the case, yes, you will still need to replace the throttle sensor. If it's not an edc engine, your problem is not electric, the non edc engine is entirely mechanical fuel injection so any issues with hunting (revs up and down) are down to the fuel injection pump.
  4. Whatever you use will only need to hold the seal in place while you fit it. the seal should do the job of preventing leaks so to that end, any readily available rtv sealant would do the job. However, i will say, my favourite is reinzosil by Victor Reinz, it's easy to apply just a little bit (unlike silicone where you always seem to end up putting too much on), very sticky and spreads neatly when you bolt stuff up without oozing everywhere.
  5. Brilliant, thanks very much, appreciate you looking it up .
  6. Thanks again guys, i can mull over the cam choices before buying, whatever i go for as said will just have to have a distributor type front end the same as the original. The only thing i'm still a little confused about is whether a duplex chain will go in an interim front cover without alterations? Is the interim front end just as deep as the previous v belts front cover?
  7. Ah ok, so using a p38 cam in my current cover isn't an option. I'm just finding it difficult to find information about an interim engine, mine is a serp so has crank driven oil pump but it did originally have a distributor. I've seen a few people say the issue comes with clearance to the oil pump in the front cover. It's looking more and more like i'll just have to stick with standard parts. Thanks
  8. I agree the original type last well in as much as i've never personally experienced a broken chain but they seem to suffer stretched chains fairly quickly. I've been trying to find a bit more info on the alterations to the timing chest but it seems that some fit fine and others need a little grinding to clear. Can you confirm what type of cover you have? Is it serp/interim (serp but with dizzy)/v belt? If I can't make my mind up i'll just fit a good quality set of standard parts but a bit more longevity would be nice, the engine appears to be in otherwise good health and it's serviced every 3000 so i'm hoping not to go in again anytime soon. Sorry for all the questions, if i could afford to have the car off the road for long periods i'd just pull it apart and see what fits but realistically i need to get the job done over a few days so i'd really like to get all the parts lined up in advance. Thanks again.
  9. Ok thanks, i'll try and do some research but i imagine it would work fine if i used the corresponding P38 cam and full gear set, with the megajolt i don't need the dizzy drive.
  10. Thanks for the info, it's given me plenty to think about. It would be nice to have a little bit more poke, it goes very well (it's still running standard hotwire injection but has megajolt taking care of the spark- the megajolt alone made a huge difference) but it does lose speed on steep hills on dual carriageways. Perhaps the duplex chain isn't 100% necessary, i didn't realise the timing chest would need altering. I assume the p38 gears are a straight swap? That sounds like a good option. Thanks
  11. Thanks for the response, was the H180 a worthwhile upgrade? I'm happy to spend some money on it if it'll give an improvement but i only really use it on road or for light off roading, its never really pushed that hard. Good point, I might well do that but it's worth knowing anyway so i know i won't have to buy any extra gaskets or o-rings. I seem to remember the steel sumps i've had off in the past have just had rtv on them but it's been so long since i worked on one. I was going to change the chain and gears anyway, i'm tempted by a duplex chain, just for longevity more than anything. What are peoples opinions on this? : http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=699 Thanks
  12. Hi, I want to change the cam shaft on my 3.9 V8 (No issues as such with the current one, it's not tapping or anything but it's done 130,000 and probably hasn't ever had one). I've done quite a few in the past but can't for the life of me remember: Do you have to remove the sump to get the timing cover off? (Can't remember whether the oil pick up bolts up to the bottom, it's a serp engine.) Is there a sump gasket for a V8 with steel sump? Is there anything else to do while i'm in there? I'm thinking cam, both timing gears and chain and a set of followers from turners. Thanks Dave
  13. I remember them being advertised in all the magazines by Timber Trail 4x4 but it would seem they've gone bust. A quick search for 300tdi boost pins showed this: http://fourby.co.uk/Boost-Pin-by-Morgan-Hill Maybe post in the wanted section if you'd rather put a standard one back in, there might be someone who has fitted a boost pin that still has their original.
  14. Don't know if it helps but have you tried searching for pictures of camel trophy discovery's? They were all fitted with internal safety devices cages.
  15. If your Discovery is an 06 it will be a TDV6 and therefore won't have a traditional fuel stop solenoid, it will most likely just stop telling the injectors to fire. It sound to me like you have a corroded earth somewhere, the engine ecu might be earthing via the lighting circuit. It's difficult to say where the fault could be, it's obviously not ideal having the sunroof leaking into the car as parts of the main loom run under the plastic trim on the sills and any connections within that section quickly corrode and fail.