dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on December 31 2014

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About dave88sw

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  1. V8 exhaust clacking

    Changed the manifold to head gaskets today (took your advice bowie69 and bought composite with the fire ring) and unfortunately the noise remains unchanged. I'm tearing my hair out trying to find this, i've had the exhaust off this car in excess of 10 times since i've had the car. I must say, i think every time i've taken the y piece off, i've found evidence of a blow on the RH downpipe, is there anything i can do to get a better seal? All 3 studs are in good shape and i've done them up as tight as i dare, it looks like it seats ok when it's cold, i certainly can't see a gap and i used genuine gaskets last time. I know the advice is to not use exhaust paste upstream of the cats but will it hurt to use it sparingly? Alternatively, and i'm sure the answer will be no, can i do away with the cats? i hate the stupid things but i don't want it to fail the MOT. Thanks
  2. V8 exhaust clacking

    Hopefully the manifold to head gaskets will do it then, thanks Hopefully not opening a can of worms here but whats the opinion on metal gaskets or composite ones in this application? Thanks
  3. V8 exhaust clacking

    Well, sick of the noise i fitted another pair of downpipe gaskets today, genuine parts too and the noise is unchanged (although there was a witness mark on the rh gasket where it had been blowing slightly). Studying the manifold to head join there is a sooty mark on the rear port so I'll change them next. It is definitely a keeper, no rust whatsoever and I've megajolted it- it's one of the sweetest v8's I've ever driven. I am determined to get to the bottom of the noise, it's spoiling the lovely V8 sound. Thanks for the help.
  4. V8 exhaust clacking

    Guess I should add, I have replaced the middle and rear sections recently with absolutely no change to the noise so that should rule that out. Cheers
  5. V8 exhaust clacking

    Hi My 3.9 V8 Disco is driving me insane with a clacking sound coming from the exhaust. I'm trying to rule everything out before I throw money at a new downpipe with cats. I'm sure it never used to make this noise, the original cats started rattling and I replaced them with a good second hand set and initially all was ok but shortly after it started. When I fire it up from cold the noise isn't there but as it warms up it gets worse. It clacks under load when the revs are below 2000 rpm (it is definitely exhaust not engine, it's a tinny noise like a large golf ball rattling in the pipe). I've replaced the manifold to downpipe gaskets 3 times now and gunked up the downpipe to center box join as both seemed to have small blows but I'm confident it's now sealed. Any suggestions or does it sound like the cats breaking up? Just seems a heavy noise to be a cat and why only when warm? Thanks Dave
  6. Difflock warning light turned itself on

    I can't think the car could have slipped into difflock. Although you don't have the linkage to activate it, a lot of boxes still had the lock fitted just without the link to activate it, however, to activate it requires a turn of a spigot that sticks out the top of the box, it's highly unlikely it could have slipped in. Regarding the sloppy gear selector, there's very little to the shifter that's inside the car, it just pushes and pulls on a cable. It's possible the bracket on the side of the box that holds the outer cable sleeve has worked loose or it could be the shifter arm on the side of the box has come loose on it's spigot. The position switch monitoring fault will almost certainly be the XYZ switch on the side of the box. If it gets wet it will play up. You'd normally find the "M" and "s" lights flash on the dash when it has a current fault with the switch but turning the ignition off and back on again will normally clear it. My experience is that the reverse track of the switch fails first as it has quite a high load on it with the reverse lights being fed off it. Thus it puts the m and s lights on every time you shift through reverse. To avoid it you can switch off and restart in neutral, shifting straight to drive.
  7. D2 V8 PAS pipe replacement QEP105481

    They take much the same route on a RHD car and every one i've done i've had to take the radiator out, i don't think there's a quick way round it. It is only the main coolant radiator that has to come out though.
  8. 1998 300tdi auto

    It sounds like you have a 300tdi edc engine. If this is the case, yes, you will still need to replace the throttle sensor. If it's not an edc engine, your problem is not electric, the non edc engine is entirely mechanical fuel injection so any issues with hunting (revs up and down) are down to the fuel injection pump.
  9. Water pump seal adhesive?

    Whatever you use will only need to hold the seal in place while you fit it. the seal should do the job of preventing leaks so to that end, any readily available rtv sealant would do the job. However, i will say, my favourite is reinzosil by Victor Reinz, it's easy to apply just a little bit (unlike silicone where you always seem to end up putting too much on), very sticky and spreads neatly when you bolt stuff up without oozing everywhere.
  10. A few V8 questions

    Brilliant, thanks very much, appreciate you looking it up .
  11. A few V8 questions

    Thanks again guys, i can mull over the cam choices before buying, whatever i go for as said will just have to have a distributor type front end the same as the original. The only thing i'm still a little confused about is whether a duplex chain will go in an interim front cover without alterations? Is the interim front end just as deep as the previous v belts front cover?
  12. A few V8 questions

    Ah ok, so using a p38 cam in my current cover isn't an option. I'm just finding it difficult to find information about an interim engine, mine is a serp so has crank driven oil pump but it did originally have a distributor. I've seen a few people say the issue comes with clearance to the oil pump in the front cover. It's looking more and more like i'll just have to stick with standard parts. Thanks
  13. A few V8 questions

    I agree the original type last well in as much as i've never personally experienced a broken chain but they seem to suffer stretched chains fairly quickly. I've been trying to find a bit more info on the alterations to the timing chest but it seems that some fit fine and others need a little grinding to clear. Can you confirm what type of cover you have? Is it serp/interim (serp but with dizzy)/v belt? If I can't make my mind up i'll just fit a good quality set of standard parts but a bit more longevity would be nice, the engine appears to be in otherwise good health and it's serviced every 3000 so i'm hoping not to go in again anytime soon. Sorry for all the questions, if i could afford to have the car off the road for long periods i'd just pull it apart and see what fits but realistically i need to get the job done over a few days so i'd really like to get all the parts lined up in advance. Thanks again.
  14. A few V8 questions

    Ok thanks, i'll try and do some research but i imagine it would work fine if i used the corresponding P38 cam and full gear set, with the megajolt i don't need the dizzy drive.
  15. A few V8 questions

    Thanks for the info, it's given me plenty to think about. It would be nice to have a little bit more poke, it goes very well (it's still running standard hotwire injection but has megajolt taking care of the spark- the megajolt alone made a huge difference) but it does lose speed on steep hills on dual carriageways. Perhaps the duplex chain isn't 100% necessary, i didn't realise the timing chest would need altering. I assume the p38 gears are a straight swap? That sounds like a good option. Thanks