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dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on April 4 2018

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About dave88sw

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  1. Sorry for the delay in response, i finally had a chance today to have a look. You were right, the thermostat had dropped down slightly as i'd bolted up the housing, i've now replaced the gasket and used a dab of silicone to hold the thermostat in place and seems to be all good. Thanks for your help
  2. Hi, I've just got my 110 V8 started on megasquirt for the first time and it runs lovely. However, i have a leak from the thermostat housing. I understand the gems P38 Range Rover had a remote thermostat in a plastic housing but i've put one in the manifold behind the top hose stub as it looked the same as the earlier manifolds. Is it ok to install one in that location or have i done something wrong? I fitted the housing with a new gasket and a smear of silicone sealer but it still leaks. When i pulled my old 3.5 carb top hose stub off i noticed the thermostat had no rubber seali
  3. Well i found some time this evening to have a look, i drained the front axle, it had plenty of oil, nothing worrying came out. Took the prop off, both UJs are smooth in all directions and have no play. There is a tiny amount of play in the pinion bearing but i really mean tiny and the same in the transfer output bearing. Both are smooth when rotated. So having not really found anything, i greased the prop and stuck it back on. When i took it for a drive, the noise is pretty much gone, if i really listen for it, i think it's still there but it's greatly reduced. Don't know now whether it
  4. Thanks for the replies, it's useful to get others opinions on these sorts of things. I'll pull the prop sometime this week, check the Uj's thoroughly and check the diff pinion nut is nice and tight. I think, considering the low cost of the parts and the fact I have a slide hammer attachment to do the front transfer output bearing, I'll do that next to rule it out. Thanks again Dave
  5. Brake vacuum pumps often tick when they're giving up.
  6. Hi I have a 1986 110 that i've converted to a 300tdi. The front and rear axles are original (with only 85000 miles on them), the transfer box is in the original location, so the props are original and the gearbox is an R380. The car was laid up for over 15 years (it had never had an MOT logged on the online system, which came in 2005, other than that, i don't know when it was on the road). The problem i have is that, when driving in 4th or 5th (although i think it's speed related, rather than gearbox), at speeds above 50mph, all is quiet and smooth, unless i slowly release the thro
  7. In the last picture there should be some long M8 bolts through the body crossmember into the bracket welded to the chassis directly above the rear trailing arm bush.
  8. Thanks for the replies, i think you're right with the gate pattern, there's definitely a longer throw on the R380. I have the benefit of having a few land rovers about to compare, the gear lever itself on a genuine defender r380 is identical to the lt77 one, the top housing dimensions are the same too so i imagine you're right and i probably need the r380 version. Regards cutting the handbrake cable, yes they could, but the using the handbrake lever would be easier . With the pedal lock on and the gearstick locked they will not be able to get it out of gear to tow it or drive it.
  9. I have a 110 i've just finished rebuilding, as part of the rebuild, i converted it from a 2.5na to a 300tdi with r380 box. However, it's a Discovery box, fitted with ashcrofts selector rail adapter and the top housing from the LT77 (with the reverse plunger removed for obvious reasons). I then used the LT77 gear stick with a new r380 knob on the top. It's all fitted as the LT77 would be so that i didnt have to alter the floors. I've fitted an xdefend pedal lock already, as well as a few other security measures but a friends Defender was stolen locally last Saturday and found in a fiel
  10. Make sure you have a good connection on the battery terminals. Then, try putting a jump lead between the battery negative and the engine, the lifting eye is usually a decent place. If that works, you have a broken/poor earth wire.
  11. santorini black has a LOT of glitter in it, up close it has lots of different colours in the metal flake. I think Java and Beluga are pretty much just "gloss black". A friend had a 90 painted Aintree green with a java black roof, looked nice.
  12. The discovery speedo drive gear in the transfer box has a smaller square drive. You need to swap it for the Defender one and make sure you get the correct one to suit your tyre size.
  13. Having taken the nearside wing off a td5 in the last couple of days, one bit of advice i can give you: The alarm siren is mounted to the wing, it'll come with it but if you just disconnect the loom at the multi-plug (clipped to the heater box, you need to slide it off the mount before unplugging it, the tab it's slid on locks the connector together, to get it off you need to lift the little clip that latches it to the bracket it's on. You won't be able to see what you're doing, you do it by feel) the alarm will sound until its internal battery dies. To get around this, you need to turn the i
  14. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsDUCdc2pAQ 1:34 in, he shows the injector pressures. I know they will run with a manual pump and edc injectors but like i said, i have no idea what long term problems it would cause if any.
  15. The engine is the same, its just the fuel pump and injectors that are different. Fit a standard manual fuel pump and injectors and it'll all be fine. (Some people don't bother changing the injectors, it will run on the originals but the "pop" pressure is different, don't really know what effect that has though)
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