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dave88sw last won the day on April 4

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About dave88sw

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  1. P38 4.6 fuse blowing

    Hi, Took my Range Rover to work today, everything functioning perfectly. Parked up at home and when i went back out to it, it wouldn't crank over. Cursed a lot and took the other car... Anyway, had 5 minutes to look when i got home and fairly quickly established the starter relay wasn't clicking in, checked the fuse (no.40, engine bay fusebox) and it had blown. It's a 40 amp fuse, only had 30's with me so stuck one in and it fired straight up, took it up the road and noticed the air suspension wasn't coming up and i couldn't hear the compressor. Parked it up and wouldn't restart, fuse blown again. No.40 is marked as air suspension and starter motor. Took the cover off the compressor, it is red hot (would have been stone cold when i started it and i did less than a mile) and smells... burnt. I think i know the answer already but before i spend £180 on a compressor, is there anything else to check? I assume, being a 40 amp fuse, it directly feeds the compressor? I don't know why i doubt it but i just assumed the air suspension compressor would be one of the maxi fuses rather than a standard blade. Thanks Dave
  2. Help..odd problem

    injector seals...
  3. P38 Harmon Kardon sub box

    Ok, so i've looked at prices for new 6.5" subs and replacement used amplifiers and they're not cheap. A little while back i fitted one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenwood-KSC-SW11-Compact-Under-Seat-150W-Active-Amplified-Powered-Subwoofer-Sub/171165909764?hash=item27da488304:g:MasAAOSw~gRVjTAd to my Discovery and i'm really very impressed with it. I'm quite tempted to remove the entire sub box and replace it with the compact sub which would also give me a bit of storage space in the left hand side of the boot which would be nice. Does anybody have a link to a wiring diagram for the sub box to save me downloading rave?
  4. P38 Harmon Kardon sub box

    2001 P38 with Harmon Kardon sound system. The sub box seems to distort at fairly low volume and generally spoils the sound. Both speaker cones are in good order and not split but are they the most likely cause of the issue or is it more likely to be the little amp attached to the box? I've unplugged it for now but would like to sort it out, does anyone know off the top of their head what diameter the speakers are so i can have a look for replacements? Thanks Dave
  5. Spark plugs for 4.6 P38 on LPG

    Right, i'll go with the BPR6ES plugs then, i've ordered some new leads to go on at the same time so it'll all be new. It has a spark plug box taped to the air compressor lid with 95k written on it (on 109k now) so i'm hoping they'll come out without any drama. Now to find a lower steering column... Does it ever end?
  6. As the title suggests, i'm looking for suggestions for the best option for spark plugs for a 2001 Thor engined 4.6 P38. It has LPG on it, which i use occasionally but it does most of it's miles on petrol. Think i'm right in saying the bosch engined ones had platinum plugs as standard which are a bit expensive but most people seem to suggest just using NGK BPR6ES plugs and changing them more often. Thoughts on this? I'm happy to change them every 10k
  7. How to deal with rust bubbles?

    I should have said, I used a rust converter previously and removed the windows completely to do it. When I replaced the windows I put a thin bead of sealant inside the seal lip to prevent water getting in there. The bubbles coming through now arent really under the seal, they're just below, on the ridge in the roof beneath the window. Is por15 as good as its cracked up to be?
  8. Thought i'd post this here as it applies to rust on any car body panel... I have a few small rust bubbles coming through the paint around the alpine windows on my discovery 1. I rubbed them back (the steelwork appears pretty sound, just starting to rust rather than completely rotten and full of holes) and etch primed and top coated about 3 years ago but they're just starting again. What advice would you give for a longer lasting repair. At this stage i'm less concerned about aesthetics and more concerned about applying a coating that'll prevent it from going into holes. I did buy some bilt hamber zinc rich primer for the job but it says on the tin to give it 7 days drying time before over painting. Given i have nowhere to store it indoors, should i use it for this job? I assume it would skin over within a few hours but is it likely to work if it's kept outdoors in the inevitable rain? Dave
  9. I think that's actually the air suspension compressor inlet. Assuming that pipe is going up the lh rear quarter. Either way it should come apart as Bowie said
  10. Help..odd problem

    If you can get it plugged in that's the best place to start (Had similar rough running issues when the big capacitors in the ecu that fire the injectors fail - often comes up as "topside switch failure") Otherwise my guess would be injector seals, very common to misfire/cutout and then restart when everything has cooled.
  11. Series 3

    Battery being drained and not recharging... Have you checked the alternator output? Or the condition of the battery?
  12. Swing Away Spare Wheel Carrier of choice?

    I've fitted a couple of britpart ones for people and in all fairness, they appear to be pretty well made. One was over 2.5 years ago and it still looks like new, no paint peeling etc and a very reasonable price from island4x4.
  13. EAS Fault

    Just to tie this thread up, it was a LH rear height sensor, replaced with a new genuine one and it's all working fine again... for now.
  14. Another R380 Defender stuck in gear

    Picture borrowed from elsewhere, that's what you're looking for, you have to remove the reverse light switch to get an allen key in to tighten the grub screw.
  15. Another R380 Defender stuck in gear

    When you say you have removed the top, do you mean you've removed the whole selector housing? You should be able to see inside the box through a rectangular hole if removed where i suggested above, not just the gearstick turret which you can remove seperately. Your symptoms fit with the grub screw coming loose. If it's not that, it's probably gearbox rebuild time.

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