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dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on April 4 2018

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About dave88sw

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  1. This is something that concerns me, particularly when they launch E10 this year. What's the solution? Is there anything resistant to ethanol that will last well?
  2. On my 110 van, the VIN plate is marked 3050kg, but the logbook states a gross weight of 2999kg. The MOT tester wasn't happy to test it as a class 4 until i showed him the logbook.
  3. The alternative, as said, is to send the ecu away. i just preferred to do as i said for a couple of reasons; first, the original gauge is not an accurate indication of engine temp, it has no scale and so as not to alarm the driver, it doesn't creep up in normal use, instead it reads "normal", until it suddenly jumps into the red when it's all a bit too late. Second, it's cheaper to fit a new gauge and with Defenders using standard size 52mm gauges, a VDO vision gauge looks original, can be green illuminated and gives a scale in degrees celsius.
  4. I'm well aware, what i'm saying is that the Discovery ecu outputs a different signal to the dash gauge but interprets the reading from the sender the same. Therefore, any alterations to the fueling due to coolant temperature are still happening but the dash gauge will read wrong. If you simply disconnect the original gauge and fit a new gauge wired direct to a matched sender, you will have an accurate dash gauge and an ecu functioning entirely as it should. You must leave the original sender in place and connected though, so that the ecu has a coolant temperature reading. I achieved th
  5. Happens a lot because Discovery ecu's are far more plentiful and therefore cheaper. Defenders don't tend to be broken up often so second hand ecu's are hard to find. Do as above, or fit a matched gauge and sender. I have found that with a discovery ecu fitted, the engine ecu appears to see the right temperature when looking at live data, so it is simply the wrong signal being sent to the gauge.
  6. All 4 hubs have been off, had new discs on the front, 3 out of 4 wheels had new bearings, the 4th was regreased because it was in good condition. I've been right through the whole car, i really can't think what's causing it.
  7. Well, I should have replied to this sooner as the noise hadn't in fact gone, it just seems to be better some times than others. I think it's more of a vibration/resonance issue but i can't pin down what it is. Having found play in the diff pinion, both prop sliding joints and the front output bearing of the transfer box, i have swapped the front diff, fitted 2 new props and changed the transfer box bearing. Both axles have fresh oil, as does the transfer box. The wheels have recently been balanced too. So, any opinions as to where i go next? I'd really like to get to the bottom
  8. You say you're struggling with the exhaust bolts? I assume you mean the downpipe? If so, there's no need to seperate the downpipe to renew the gasket, you can pull the manifold away far enough to get the gasket in and out, i don't usually find the gasket leaves much mess behind, clean up is usually just brake cleaner on a rag and a sharp scraper. If you use brake cleaner, don't spray it in the ports, spray it on a rag and wipe round, diesels will run on brake cleaner but it's not kind to them, they knock pretty bad if there's any left in the inlet.
  9. If you find some good quality ones let us know where from 😂. I've fitted britpart ones and sp land rover ones. The britpart ones are sort of ok, they're not great quality, the steel frame is thin and the section of frame where the door is curved is pressed badly, it looks a bit crushed there, it's also 5mm shorter than an original door, which doesn't sound a lot but it looks a lot, because the gap at the front between the bulkhead and door is half the size of the one at the back between the door and tub. The SP land rover ones were a little better made, frame was stiffer and they're the
  10. I like the look of the monroe shocks, i think i'll probably go with them but i can't see any information about length. Considering mine sits at normal ride height i can't see it being too much of an issue?
  11. Thanks for the replies, lots to think about. There doesn't appear to be a huge amount of choice. Most of them appear to be britpart 🤢, whether that be standard shocks or gas ones. I've read that the cellular dynamic shocks they make are apparently half decent but i hate poly bushes, which they appear to come with (bad experiences of them wearing the parts they're fitted to, the bush should be the sacrificial part). Paddocks stock Monroe gas shocks which look interesting, bonus being they come with rubber bushes and they're black, which is a massive plus. I'm thinking i might give them
  12. Hi, I'm sure this has been done to death in the past but there's lots of differing opinion out there. I rebuilt my series 3 many years ago onto a galvanised chassis, at the time i fitted britpart parabolics and pro comp shocks. The britpart springs were awful, the bush eyes weren't parallel so they ate bushes and they sagged, swapped them side to side and they sagged the other way. I've sinced replaced them with a nice set from GB springs but the old pro comp shocks are still on there and looking decidedly tired. Tbh, any conclusions about ride quality are pretty pointless, it wil
  13. Sorry for the delay in response, i finally had a chance today to have a look. You were right, the thermostat had dropped down slightly as i'd bolted up the housing, i've now replaced the gasket and used a dab of silicone to hold the thermostat in place and seems to be all good. Thanks for your help
  14. Hi, I've just got my 110 V8 started on megasquirt for the first time and it runs lovely. However, i have a leak from the thermostat housing. I understand the gems P38 Range Rover had a remote thermostat in a plastic housing but i've put one in the manifold behind the top hose stub as it looked the same as the earlier manifolds. Is it ok to install one in that location or have i done something wrong? I fitted the housing with a new gasket and a smear of silicone sealer but it still leaks. When i pulled my old 3.5 carb top hose stub off i noticed the thermostat had no rubber seali
  15. Well i found some time this evening to have a look, i drained the front axle, it had plenty of oil, nothing worrying came out. Took the prop off, both UJs are smooth in all directions and have no play. There is a tiny amount of play in the pinion bearing but i really mean tiny and the same in the transfer output bearing. Both are smooth when rotated. So having not really found anything, i greased the prop and stuck it back on. When i took it for a drive, the noise is pretty much gone, if i really listen for it, i think it's still there but it's greatly reduced. Don't know now whether it
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