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dave88sw last won the day on February 21

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About dave88sw

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  1. Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6

    Perhaps i should have worded it differently :P, it is possible but I know of 2 people who have done it and both have said they'd take the body off next time or simply not take on the job. Not trying to scare anyone off doing one, it's just best to go into it knowing what's involved.
  2. Upgrade to Disco 3 TDV 6

    You are aware it's a body off job to fit an engine to a D3? It makes it virtually impossible to DIY it unless you have some serious kit.
  3. P38 V8 as a daiy driver?

    Thanks very much for all the replies. Jon, the Volvo definitely is the most sensible choice but having taken it to 160,000 miles and a few niggles started appearing, i sold it, unfortunately anything newer (quite like the V70 that came after mine) is still fairly expensive. Still, it was definitely one of the best cars i've ever owned. Well, i took the plunge, bought a 51 plate Vogue 4.6 on gas. It has a full service history and has very recently had all the brakes done (discs pads and calipers all round), new air suspension compressor, cats, full exhaust etc etc. It did have a leaking airspring but i negotiated £300 off the price and i've just changed all 4. So far it's lost no water, runs smoothly and everything seems to work (right down to the heated seats, which is pretty unheard of). Useful to know about replacing the timer relay, what are the benefits of swapping it? Now that the springs have been changed, it doesn't drop overnight so the EAS doesn't have to work particularly hard. I'll take all the other suggestions on board, it's had blend motors and o-rings within the last couple of years so they should be good for a little while. I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes but i don't think i can lose too much at the price i paid... Cheers Dave
  4. Td5 discovery price

    Really hate to say it but with no MOT they aren't worth all that much. The recent work will certainly make it easier to sell but it doesn't normally add much to the value. 90% of people will be looking for a car they can drive away. I've watched lots on ebay and anything without an MOT struggles to get £800, with one it's probably up to £2k depending on spec, an ES will fetch a bit more.
  5. P38 V8 as a daiy driver?

    As the title really. I'm looking at possibly buying a 4.6 Vogue with LPG to use as a daily drive. I've worked on plenty over the years so know the fixes for most problems but realistically i have no idea what they're like to live with. Let's say i was to go through all the usual problem areas soon after buying (check/replace air springs, fit latest RF receiver etc), would it be naive to expect it to be fairly reliable? I currently drive a BMW 330 which is giving about 30mpg, if the range rover were doing around 12-15mpg on gas it should be similar cost wise to run. Can anyone recommend any modifications to make it more reliable? I've seen kits to put a schrader valve in each air line to the springs to allow you to inflate the air springs manually if it has a fault, are these worth getting to keep in the glovebox? I've read about (but never seen) a kit that prevents the air suspension functioning with the ignition off, presumably to prevent it dropping on all 4 corners if you get a leak on one spring? Thanks Dave
  6. It's definitely something you have to consider these days when selling a car too. Any potential buyer can so easily check the MOT history, if anything relatively major has come up in the past (mainly rust) it's going to be very difficult to sell. Recently sold a disco 2 which had failed on rust in the rear end, therefore had to take detailed photos of the repairs that had been done (it was a very good job) or most people wouldn't bother viewing. I can understand it from both sides, i've dismissed cars that have previously failed on rust because most repair jobs are pretty poor.
  7. Bump and vibrate 300 tdi 90

    Exhaust touching chassis?
  8. Hi, I've been given a 19J Defender to sort out for somebody. I was told it had started playing up and eventually refused to start at all, i checked everything fuel wise, had decent fuel supply to the injection pump and the solenoid definitely opened but nothing made it to the injectors. So i've changed the pump for a second hand unit and i'm at the point where i need to put the timing belt on. Now, i know where all the marks are on the relevant pulleys, that's easy enough to line up but i've never actually done a 19J belt before (loads of tdi's), the pump is mounted on slots, which suggests it's adjustable on these slots to advance/retard. Is there any way to lock the pump in the right position, like the TDI, or do i adjust the final position of the pump afterwards until it runs right? I have searched endlessly online and despite threads being titled 19J, the advice appears to relate to TDI's, there is no hole in the front of the pump for a timing pin. Thanks Dave
  9. TD5 overheating

    The fuel coolers often leak from the o rings that seal the end caps. I'd have a pressure test done and make sure i'm 100% certain it's not leaking out but if it all tests fine for leaks your only option is to take the head off.
  10. R380 into P38?

    You could have a 4.0 V8 with a factory manual, the 4.6 theoretically produced more torque than the R380 could handle. They're not common though...
  11. TD5 Self locking doors

    On the TD5, the link rod between the latch and the exterior door handle is adjustable, it has a hook the top end and a thread at the bottom. If you disconnect the top and wind the rod in to shorten it a bit, it pulls further on the latch mechanism and the door opens much easier. Unless the door is really out of line i can't see that it should be binding up too badly, seen plenty that drop a significant amount when opened but still open on the handle easy.
  12. I use an old Macscan which is made by Omitec, the same as the Lynx scanner (looks identical but is red). It was bought new in 2006 along with a box of leads to suit most popular models. However, anything that uses the standard OBD port, including the Disco 2 has a lead with a switch box inline. It has 2 rotary knobs marked A-L and 1-12. When it asks you to switch to A1 that's what it refers to. If you don't have that lead is there an option to select a different harness? The macscan often asks whether it's a 16pin lead/switchable lead etc.
  13. Dog ate the seatbelt

    I seem to remember it being a pain but can't remember exactly what was in the way. I'm thinking possibly body mount bolt going through the floor at the same height as the seat belt bolt stopping you getting square on it with a socket? I think i just pulled out the seatbelt to give a bit more room round the bolt and used a wobble drive extension with the thinnest walled socket i could find.
  14. Extending a bowden cable

    Ah, mine is a series 3 2.25 so only a single SU. You might be lucky with yours, the cable is probably somewhere near being right. I'm going to try and get the new manifold and carb mounted up shortly after new year and i think i'll have a go using a second cable pulled by the original to get it all working, it would be nice not to have to remove anything original. Thanks Dave
  15. Pheasants!

    I've only ever been unfortunate enough to hit any animal once. I was in a 306 and managed to get 2 pheasants at the same time, one went through the lh fog light and the other went through the rh fog light and washer bottle... Had I not repaired the fog lights with cable ties and got a second hand washer bottle it would have been a write off (car was about £300 worth). Good job I hated the car really or I'd have been much more upset 😂.