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dave88sw

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dave88sw last won the day on April 4 2018

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About dave88sw

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  1. dave88sw

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    The fact that they block up in time says to me that they're doing a good job catching all the crud. Personally, i wouldn't want to bypass it, a seal kit for the sediment bowl is not expensive and it doesnt take long at all to take off the bowl and clean it out.
  2. dave88sw

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    As above, or, i've had similar symptoms with a blocked fuel sedimentor, not the filter under the bonnet, the sediment bowl on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail back by the fuel tank.
  3. dave88sw

    Is this practical

    I love the T5 idea, i've had both a phase 2 T5 V70 and now a phase 1 V70R. It's a cracking engine that i've often thought of putting in a Land Rover, obviously any engine conversion is going to present problems but the one i can't get past is the plastic timing chest. On an off road vehicle, it's likely to fill with mud and throw the belt off.
  4. dave88sw

    Wheels !

    I'd be putting a caliper on then... Would appear to be sticking if you're frequently warping discs on just that corner.
  5. dave88sw

    Discovery 1 seat alternatives

    The seat base foam and cover from a passenger seat fits the drivers side and couldnt be easier to fit...
  6. Hi, I've got a very strange problem to try and get to the bottom of. It's a 2010 Defender TDCI that was all running fine until the other day. It starts normally on the key and runs absolutely fine until i touch the brake pedal or put it in reverse. As soon as i do either, it cuts out. I've disconnected the brake light switch and the reverse light switch and the vehicle then runs and drives absolutely fine, but this obviously isn't a lasting fix as i need the lights working. Does anyone have any ideas? At this stage i don't know where to even begin. Thanks Dave
  7. dave88sw

    Hi / low problem

    On the top of the transfer box is a short rectangular housing held down with 6 bolts, the high/low selector arm enters through the end of the housing and a little finger pushes the selector inside the transfer box to shift ratios. If you remove that housing, inside is a grub screw that often comes loose, attaching the selector "finger" to the selector rod. The result of which is that everything looks like it is moving properly externally but nothing happens inside the transfer box when you go to shift.
  8. dave88sw

    New TD5 fuel pump but now engine cuts out

    Was the old pump covered in black sooty deposits? Sounds like the injector washers are blowing by.
  9. dave88sw

    Using a Rivnut tool help

    I've got the same one, there's no real instruction as to how far you screw it onto the rivnut, only how to assemble the tool. It's a bit of guesswork really, i basically look at the rivnut and estimate how long the section that collapses is (the bit between the thread and the flange), then with the arms of the tool together, screw the rivnut on until it stops, open the arms and then screw the rivnut on the length you estimated, insert the rivnut in the hole and squeeze the arms together with a reasonable force or until they touch without going overboard. Then unscrew the tool and check it's reasonably tightly set in the hole. As long as it isn't loose enough to rotate as you thread a bolt in it should be fine, it will pinch up when you tighten the bolt.
  10. dave88sw

    Disco 2 or Disco 3 ..... Discuss!

    I'd echo Muddy, put a new chassis under yours. Have you driven a Discovery 3? I personally hate driving them, they go well but the handling is awful, feels like your driving a double decker with soggy suspension. I also hate the interior, the seats give me arse ache in 5 minutes, they're very typical of Ford; rock hard and no shape. Mine isn't a popular opinion, most seem to like them but it would be worth trying one out before you search for one. You also need deep pockets for repairs to a Discovery 3, remember they were a very expensive car when new and although the purchase price has dropped, you're still paying expensive car maintenance costs. You will NEED to be friendly with someone who has a Land Rover friendly diagnostic set up.
  11. dave88sw

    Running hot

    I've already changed it for a solid state one in the hope that was the problem but no change. Thanks for the suggestion though
  12. dave88sw

    Running hot

    Sorry for the slow response, I do appreciate the suggestions. I've just changed out the thermostat, for some reason it had an 82 degree one, I've stuck a 74 in. Unfortunately it's still getting a little warm. I'm fairly certain it's not an earth issue, it has multiple earth straps on the engine and the gauge earth is good and clean. I did however pull a couple of spark plugs earlier and they're very pale so that might explain it if it's running fairly lean. Cheers Dave
  13. dave88sw

    Running hot

    I'll try and get hold of a thermometer but timing has been checked and set up following the advice in the third post on this thread: Biggest trouble being i can't really find definitive figures for setting the timing. It's currently at nearly 6btdc at idle (its a 8:1 compression head so manual suggests static figure of tdc but it runs much better at 6 before) It's a brand new radiator and i'm fairly sure there's no build up, in the 12 years i've owned it it's not been in 1 piece long enough to accumulate sludge!! Water pump is good. Thanks Dave
  14. dave88sw

    Running hot

    Hi, I'm having a bit of a headache with my series 3, 2.25 petrol. It always used to run with the temperature gauge bang on the middle of the "N" where it should, however, it's been laid up a while and since i've started using it again, the needle is sitting a little above the "N", about halfway between normal and the red zone. It doesn't appear to rise any higher, even if i take it up a long hill. I had this happen many years back and that turned out to be a crappy britpart sender unit, so first thing i did was change the sender again (genuine land rover one), i've also changed the voltage stabiliser for the gauges (solid state replacement) but the gauge is still reading exactly the same. I don't think it is actually running particularly warm, i can hold the top hose quite comfortably and there's no excess pressure there. So, i'm a bit stumped, where would you go next? I'm probably going to order a new genuine thermostat and give that a go but i'm getting a bit bored of replacing bits that aren't at fault. Any suggestions? Thanks Dave
  15. dave88sw

    EFI kit suppliers

    I bought Nige's trigger wheel, coil pack bracket and vr sensor bracket kits a couple of years ago when i put megajolt on my 3.9 discovery. Top quality stuff, all bolts included so it was just a case of remove the pulley, undo the existing bolts and bolt the trigger wheel on, couldn't have been easier. Trigger wheels do some model/engine specific stuff but it's more universal bits that will fit with adjustment rather than the purpose made "fits straight out the box" stuff from Nige.
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