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dave88sw last won the day on April 4 2018

dave88sw had the most liked content!

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About dave88sw

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  1. dave88sw

    Piston rings

    Thanks for the replies. I have measured the gap in the cylinder and they're fine, i was just surprised the new ring was narrower than the old one. You've put my mind at ease though, I've got to glaze bust the cylinder but hopefully i'll start fitting it up at the weekend. Thanks Dave
  2. dave88sw

    Piston rings

    Hoping someone can help put my mind at ease. I've just bought a set of piston rings for an engine i'm rebuilding. They're a good brand, ordered from my local engine remanufacturer who uses the brand for all of his rebuilds. When comparing them to the old rings, the top ring is a fair bit narrower (when viewed from the top, they're the same thickness where they fit in the groove). Should this matter? I imagine it should be fine as it's plenty wide enough to engage in the groove. The ring gap is within spec in all cylinders. Picture: Top ring is original, lower one is the new ring.
  3. dave88sw

    Defender seat runners

    The bolts go into riv nuts and my experience of trying to undo them was that the riv nut starts spinning every time... I drill the heads off, remove the frame from the runners, you then have a long stud to grip and unscrew if it will, if not, cut it off, knock the riv nut out and install a new riv nut.
  4. dave88sw

    Effective methods for sealant removal

    I have a few different scrapers, razor blades etc but it wont touch this stuff. I've spent about 3 hours on it now and I'm only about half way through. I guess I'll just have to keep going with it. Thanks for the replies
  5. Over the years i've had to remove all sorts of gaskets and sealants and its always been a job I absolutely hate, it's tedious and if you're not careful with the scraper it's very easy to gouge the surface. In particular the special anaerobic sealants used on many cars heads between the head and cam cover, like on the k series freelanders is really tough to shift. It dries rock hard and i've not found any solvents that will soften it. Has anybody ever found a product/method for removal that's effective? Also, while we're on the subject, what's peoples thoughts on the use of scotchbrite? I was always told to keep it well away from engines as the fibres are very fine and abrasive and they shed them quite heavily. But if care is taken to clean up after, and to stuff any open passageways with rag, is it really that bad? Thanks Dave
  6. dave88sw

    Slightly off topic. Forged con rods.

    I knew it was worth posting here... I'll have to see how much my wallet can take. Theres lots of other associated parts (timing belt kit, head gasket etc) so the spend is already looking pretty high, fairly encouraging to hear positive experience of the cheaper rods though. I'm not looking to increase power really, just prevent this happening again. I've already stripped the engine in the car, you're probably right that it would be easier to pull it out but i just havent got the space or equipment. From what i'd read about the turbos, most crack in the wastegate seat and lose boost pressure but unless it's noticeable most people leave well alone. I'll be happy just to have it running again. It's much better on fuel than my V8 disco1 or series 3 2.25 petrol!! Thanks Dave
  7. Hi, Posted this here because there are many users on this forum who can probably give me a better answer than anyone on the various Volvo forums... I have a T5 engined Volvo and i've bent a con rod (turbo overboost - didn't think it was possible but it's well documented and i've found a rod bent.). Looking at replacing with an upgraded part as I NEVER want to do this again, it's a major job with the engine still in the car. A supplier i've used before who have so far been very good have a set of forged rods for £396, which is a bit steep but they're no doubt good quality parts. However, i have found on ebay a set: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4340-TuV-Certification-Connecting-Rods-for-Volvo-850-C70-T5-V70-2-3L-ARP-Bolts/372658849460?fits=Car+Make%3AVolvo|Cars+Type%3AT5&hash=item56c432c6b4:g:npcAAOSwIVVcky-3 for just short of £260. Has anybody got any comments on the cheaper rods, should i stay clear of them? Found a few reviews for the brand that seem to be pretty good but no reviews for rods to suit a T5. Many thanks Dave
  8. dave88sw

    4.6 inlet on a 3.5?

    I hadn't considered the servo take off - which is stupid really, as i owned a P38 not long ago... Thanks for all your replies, i'll mix and match the bits to end up with everything i need, but it sounds like i can't go far wrong with it. Thanks Dave
  9. dave88sw

    LT77 to R380 conversion

    I appreciate the suggestion and although it would almost certainly be easier, i can get hold of a standard R380 fairly cheaply. Also, if i'm going to fit a 300tdi, i'll have to alter the engine mounts anyway so i could quite easily move them forward. I'm just not sure whether i can leave the transfer box where it is or not, it would save a fair bit of time and money if i could. Thanks Dave
  10. dave88sw

    4.6 inlet on a 3.5?

    Hi, I'm in the process of converting my dads V8 defender to megasquirt. The engine was a 3.5 flapper from an early range rover so we sourced another inlet manifold with the later injectors. The manifold is from a 4.6 gems V8 P38 Range Rover. I'm at the stage now where the loom is made and i can fit the plenum but I'm not sure about the trumpets. Is there any reason why I shouldn't use the 4.6 trumpets on a 3.5? I understand they're different lengths depending on the engine size but what are the upsides/downsides of each? I still have the 3.5 inlet i can take the trumpets and base plate off if necessary. Many thanks Dave
  11. dave88sw

    LT77 to R380 conversion

    Hi, I'm thinking of changing the LT77 in my 110 to an R380 (It's currently a NA with LT77 and 1.6 transfer). I can get hold of a 1.4 transfer, R380 and 300TDI. I've done a few engine conversions before, that part of it is fine but i'm not sure on the best course to take with the gearbox. Most people seem to suggest putting the whole lot in the later standard position, which I believe is slightly forward of where the original drivetrain was mounted (If we use the transfer box as a reference point, apparently the whole lot sits about 40mm further forward). This would mean changing the props to 300 type. Is it possible to leave the transfer box in the standard position and just push the engine forward to account for the longer bellhousing? I've found no definitive answer to that but a few comments that it means you can't use standard hoses (not too fussed about that, i'd rather make up some hoses than chop the seatbox and floors about and have to source props). Does anybody have any experience of doing it this way? Many thanks Dave
  12. dave88sw

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    The fact that they block up in time says to me that they're doing a good job catching all the crud. Personally, i wouldn't want to bypass it, a seal kit for the sediment bowl is not expensive and it doesnt take long at all to take off the bowl and clean it out.
  13. dave88sw

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    As above, or, i've had similar symptoms with a blocked fuel sedimentor, not the filter under the bonnet, the sediment bowl on the inside of the drivers side chassis rail back by the fuel tank.
  14. dave88sw

    Is this practical

    I love the T5 idea, i've had both a phase 2 T5 V70 and now a phase 1 V70R. It's a cracking engine that i've often thought of putting in a Land Rover, obviously any engine conversion is going to present problems but the one i can't get past is the plastic timing chest. On an off road vehicle, it's likely to fill with mud and throw the belt off.
  15. dave88sw

    Wheels !

    I'd be putting a caliper on then... Would appear to be sticking if you're frequently warping discs on just that corner.

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