mpb
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Posts posted by mpb
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Sounds like your swivel bearings are worn, which means a hub strip to replace them. Once the hub is removed - the stub axle then will come off after removing the 5x17mm head bolts that also retain the brake backplate. One they are removed - the driveshaft/CV assembly will just slide out of the axle.
Les.
My girlfriend's 110 clunks when you grip the wheel at half past 12. Will taking a couple of shims out get rid of the freeplay in the bearings or does it need stripping and rebuilding.
Cheers
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Just got a "C" cell Led tourch from Tesco's it's very bright & the best thng is it only cost £12. Im going back into get another couple.
Also got mag-lites very good tourches & led Petzl head torches.
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I read something on Difflock a few weeks back that they'd gone under.
I tryed ringing them for parts a couple of weeks back & got "This number is no longer in service" or something a long those lines.
Hopefully you paid on your Credit Card so you can getyour money back.
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Cheers for the info guys.
Hopefully it will be a straight forward swop of the lights.
Many thanks.
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A mate has a late 300 TDi Disco & he's not happy with the rear lights. It's only got the tail lights in the rear bumper & not in the body work. We would like to upgrade them so he has lights in the bumper & body work.
Is it just a matter of getting a set of 200TDi Disco rear lights & plugging them in or do we need to modify the wiring. I take it we will need a heavy duty flasher relay to get all the indicators flashing without trailer tell-tail in the cab. Has anybody got the part number for this relay.
Is the rear wiper, ecu controlled or relay controlled on this vehicle. If it's relay controlled where is it mounted please. With a new motor all the wiper does is one sweep of the back window then stops working. Any ideas please.
Many thanks
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<thread-hijack>
mpb:
Can't help but notice you're in Stafford...that wasn't you I saw passing Asda earlier today was it?
</thread-hijack>
Could of been. Mines a green 90 s/w with safari snorkel fitted runnng on silver modulars.
Got the ball joint back together after much fighting with the spring, I couldn't compress it enough with a botte jack. We ended up modding the spring with a grinder.
MOT now issued for another yea
Cheers Martin
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I have had to change my droparm ball joint twice in as many weeks.
First time it flew together (cheap Craddocks one) Cup in, spring in plate in cir-clip in. A few days later noticed the steering felt a little funy, looked & found the cir-clip had come out & all the bits below the ball had come out.
Replaced this one with a Uni-part one. Got it to go together after a fight trying to compress the spring, cir-clip in, while moving lock to lock it popped out again. Cleaned it all, up made sure the cir-clip seating was clean, re-assembled it. Had a fight for 3 hours trying to get it to go together. Got it together & tested it fine.
Just got in & checked it the cir-clip, plate, spring & cup are missing.
What am i doing wrong, I followed Les H's article on changing them. My MOT is booked for 8 am sat morning & i've got to work tomorrow, but should be able to gt a new joint on my travels.
Many thanks
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If not I think its Formula 4x4
Formula 4x4 have gone bump. One of my mates was made redundant from there a couple of months back. They where brought out by a company from Yorkshire in the end.
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Thanks Guys,
Bit undecided now, but as Bog Monster says if its cheap.....................
If you pm me your email address, ill send you a copy of the workshop manual.
The head gasket is prone to go on number 4 cylinder, but its not a hard job to change. A mate had the 2.4VM in a RR pulled like a train.
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Cheers Chaps
, ill get some ordered.Many thanks
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I need to change my TRE's. I was going to get the Delphi ones. What do i need to order one right hand tread & two left hand treads or one left hand thread & two right hand threads. Vehicle is a 1996 Defender 90. UK spec.
Many thanks
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Would the expanding builders foam stop condensation if you filled the chassis up with it? Or would it add alot of weight on a big scale like this?
In my mind it will cause the chassis to rot quicker, as any moisture will get held against the chassis rails and not dry out.
Martin
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maybe like this one?... I am very satisfied with it. It took me the night with good music and some biiiers (beer) ... Need perfect calculations to avoid bullet shots in the tailgate... 
What makes that swingway carrier please, & can you get some more photos from different angles please.
Cheers
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A friend diagnosed the ABS fault on there "M" reg disco using the paper clip method. We then put the fault code into google & found the fault. Turned out to be one of the wheel sensors need replacing. Even told us which one.
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they look like my SWF switches, got mine from my local auto-electrical supplier, ordered from Britax-pmg SWFswitches
Cheers for that, just got to work out how many switches I need now.
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I am just using it to cut/give power to the second fuse box
You need to work out the current coming out of the second fuse box, this will then give you the rating of the switch/ relay needed to supply it. That switch has only got a rating of about 10 amps.
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Thats very nice, ive still got mine to do. Can you please tell me what make of switches you've used.
Many thanks
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Have made up my own switch panel and was looking at using this switch to isolate the Auxs while i dotn have a second battery installed. Am i right in thinking that the power from the battery goes to "power", the feed for the secondary fuse box is from the "ACC" and add a negaitve/earth.
Many Thanks for your help
Your right
+12 volt fused - power
feed to second fuse box - ACC
earth - ground - to make the warning light work.
Are you using the switch to power a relay or straight to the fuse box. Looking at the switch I would say its only suitable for low power/current applications.
HTH
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Try ebay,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PAIR-FORGED-JATE-RIN...1QQcmdZViewItem
One of my mates had good service from this chap
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There Anderson Connectors, the cable is crimped or solderd in to the metal crimp. These are then pushed into plastic housing.
They come in different colours which signifys their current rating.
Your local Auto Electrical Factor or Truck Parts Shop should stock them.
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My 110 has had replacement crossmember fitted at some point and I wonder if anybody can tell me what age of vehicle the replacement would have been the standard pattern for?
The reason I ask is that, without giving it much thought, I bought a Dixon Bate adjustable tow bar, cleaned it up, re-painted it and then discovered that not all of the holes line up with those in the crossmember
Then, armed with the knowledge of what I thought was needed, I bought a second DB towbar (which I believe is the TD5 pattern) only to discover that none of the holes line up despite looking like they should 
After a bit of umm-ing and ah-ing, I decided to fit the first one as enough holes line up for it to work, but I'm now wondering just what is so special about my crossmember to make this simple job so difficult. The crossmember has the series of larger and smaller holes in the rear face that appear to match the TD5 tow bar as well as the three 10mm threaded holes in the bottom face. However, the latter stand proud of the bottom face by about 6mm, which pushed the whole tow bar downwards and means that the main bolt holes don't line up. In addtion, the two outer 10mm holes are much further apart than the length of the steel angle on the back of the tow bar.
Is there another crossmember design between the earlier and later ones or is my crossmember just a very badly designed copy?
I dont think the dixonbate hitch in the first picture is a defender one. Possibly a disco or rr one. Sorry cant offer any help on theholes in the cross member.
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Thankyou everyone for your advice.
I changed the lift pump & fuel filter this morning. There seemed more power & more top end speed. I couldn't give it a full test as I had the trailer on the back, but it pulled well on the hills.
When I get a free day, ill check the injection pump diaphragm.
Thankyou once again.
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check fuel lift pump arm .
its common for the lift pump arm pin to break and then the pump wont work .
the engine will still run because the injector pump will draw fuel by itself, but you wont get high rev power due to lack of fuel .
i have a 300tdi defender and that happened to me last year .
if you buy a new lift pump and make sure you buy 2 nuts and 2 olives for the pipe fittings .
i cannot say for definate that its the lift pump but it is a common failure on the 300tdi , so is worth at least pulling the pump away from the block and making sure the arm and pivot are ok or not .
there is a plastic tee connection just by the injector pump diaphragm housing connection of the pipe coming from the turbo , check that the plastic tee is not broken .
when revving engine up , yes the hoses should pressurise once the turbo boost is there , but they shouldnt expand and bubble out , they will more or less stay same shape but just get stiff .
i know youve changed head gasket so that should be ok , and looking at the compression figures they are all ok and within spec .
i would look close at the diaphragm pipe from the turbo and make sure it pressures up .
best to change fuel filter first before any of above, just in case you have water in there or carp which will stop fuel passing through it readily .
i change my filter every 2 months at least , after all they are only a couple of quid each .
im not sure if it would be an issue but maybe look at the turbo intake , just in case its caked with black sticky oil at all .
cyclone filter on head might need a clean but i doubt thats anything to do with it .
zeus gears will probably be ok if the engine runs as normal , only thing it might be is if the pump timing has altered , ie the bolts on the injector pump pulley/gear may have come loose or something , i know its unlikely but still worth a thought .
if timing has gone retarded then engine will become quieter running and if advanced more it will make more noticeable diesel knock .
make sure valve caps are ok and valve lash is also right .
i think everyone here has covered all your possible areas to look at .
hope you get it sorted .
ian
Cheers Ian,
Just had a look at the lift pump, this is looking like the suspect. Ive loosend the bleed screw on top of the filter and cranked it over. No fuel came out. I then worked the pump lever & I didnt get any fuel out. Ill go & get one in the morning & change it.
Many thanks
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I want to fit some NAS lights to the 90, however as its a 200Tdi i need to enlarge the holes for the lights from approx 32mm to 42mm - obviously hole saws are out the question as there is nothing to centre it on - is it possible to get a cone drill or stepped drill that big??
I used a half round file to enlarge the holes when i fitted mine. For the extra fog & reversing light I used a hole saw. Stick a bit of paint on the bare metal when you've done it.
, ill get some ordered.
maybe like this one?... I am very satisfied with it. It took me the night with good music and some biiiers (beer) ... Need perfect calculations to avoid bullet shots in the tailgate... 
Protecting your wiring
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Heat shrink is good.
Instead of loom tape for cables that run round the engine bay & under the chassis I use split conveluted truncking. Gives lots of mechanical protection.