PeteMck

Could the maps be causing the high idle then? Will have to have another read of that to remind myself. Have read so many different things recently it's all becoming a blur. Lol.

pretty much explained in the title. Ive got a V8 fuel pump/sender unit and tank out of a p38 rangie stuck in the back of the def. Think i can get around the temp sensor, however would quite like an accurate (for a def) fuel gauge so any suggestions on how to do this would be appreciated! cheers guys 👍

nope. havnt done that yet as only just been able to get it to idle guess thats the next thing to check. Anything i need to know when doing it? Anything i have to change in MS? do i have to disable spark table and use a fixed advance? TIA

OK. So blanked of pwm. Have got a an idle that floats around 950 - 1000rpm MAP around 52. Fuel pressure 1.5 bar once coolant temp at 180F it's pretty stable. Big delay if you try and rev it at all though. Any ideas on how to get idle speed down?

Will blank that off and try it. Does anyone have a base map for a 4.6 that they know works?

Hmm 🤔 The fuel regulator goes to the plenum, which the ECU is Teed into. As for running lean I've got a gauge on the fuel rail which reads 2 bar and the engine splutters away, then it will rev up to 1400ish and the pressure will drop to 1.5 bar and the engine drops back down to spluttering and the fuel pressure goes back up to 2 bar. Doesn't stay at 1400rpm, it's just as though someone has blipped the throttle.

OK. So managed to get it up to temp and had a fiddle with the idle screw and once up to temp it will at least stay running but is idling around 1200/1400 rpm. It will rev but it's slow to react and gives off a few pops while doing so. Also pops while cold and trying to get the temp up. Any suggestions on how to get the idle down? Also not getting anything from the lambda sensor. I've got white grey and black wires on mine and have swapped the white and grey round but as far as I can tell its made sod all difference. Also is it wide or narrowband? (from nice) Could this be why it's now running badly when up to temp? Thanks again for any help.

How do you set the base idle? I've basically just guessed (using other rover v8 maps) to try and get my ve and spark tables back to something that look vaguely correct. It's got a Bosch pwm valve in it as well. Whether that could be causing problems?

yer i think its running too rich. ive had a bit of a fiddle but cant get it to idle properly. Its now either revving too high and has the odd pop or bang, or if i drop the amount of fuel then it will start nicely but instantly rev itself up to 1600/1700rpm and back then cuts out instantly. I had the truck in pieces for a quite a while so its been since it was all apart. After getting a laptop on it the VE table and spark table had changed the pressure to 100kpa and revs to 5000 rpm for each row / column with fuel values all at 50. cant remember what the spark table value was but it had done the same thing. If anyone has a msq file for MS1 for a 4.6 GEMS rover v8 that would be great. 😄😄 ive tried googling it but ill be damned if i can find one. Have lost my original map as the laptop that i had all that on has died and i cant find Niges original disk. Also if anyone has any ideas what could have caused it?

Hi guys. After some ideas. So finally got the engine running all be it badly. It sits there on a horrendous lumpy idle nearly stalling and then I'll rev itself and runs quite nicely but quickly goes back to nearly stalling. I've put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and the pressure actually drops when it revs itself. So wondering if its trying to over fuel, which eventually causes the pressure to drop which reduces the fuel and so it then revs, and then the fuel pump recovers the pressure and it goes back to over fueling. Pulled a spark plug out and it's pretty sooted up after a very short period of time. Going to stick a laptop on it tomorrow to see what the values are but just wondering if my logic makes sense or if anyone has experienced this before??

Cheers for help guys. Just needed a lot of bleeding and cranking. took 4/5 more bleed cycles and a fair bit of cranking but it's idling very smoothly.

Yer I know td5 doesn't have an injector pump, was saying it sounds like a 300tdi with the injector pump wire off. In other words it's just cranks and cranks and cranks without so much as a splutter, but I can hear the fuel pump working and have purged the system serval times. Sadly I don't know the injector positions as I got the company I took the head to to remove them and foolishly I didn't make a note of the original order. So apart from injector order being wrong I guess valve timing would have to be 180 degrees out, as the Pistons don't hit the valves, but had all the timing marks lined up when i did the timing chain.

Cheers for the responses guys. Yer I flattened the battery. Lol. Ran the cycle 3 times in total. At first you could hear the air moving in the system but then it quietned down. Yer I looked on the various forums, some people said it shouldn't stop it starting, although quite a few people appear to have had non starters due to injectors in wrong order. :s but there is literally no sign of life, like when you turn a 200/300tdi over without the wire on the injector pump. However I can hear the fuel pump working, so presumably I havnt triggered the immobiliser. I didn't disconnect the battery so could this have upset the ecu?

Hi Guys. Changed the head gasket yesterday and now the vehicle turns over but doesn't start. Fuel pump working and done self purge sequence. My current thought is that the people who skimmed and pressure tested the head didn't put the injectors back into the same holes they came out of. Did the injector clearances when we reassembled the head and checked all the timing. Engine turns over fine and we turned it all over by hand when we were reassembling it to make sure the valves etc weren't going to foul. I can hear the pump running, but the engine turns over as though it's not getting any fuel. Any thoughts on what it could be other than injectors in the wrong place before I get my mate to bring his diagnostics over (a 2hr drive for him). Thanks for any help

<p>Yer I've misplaced the disk with the maps on <img src="http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blush.png" style="font-size: 14px;" /><span style="font-size: 14px;"> </span></p>

Haha don't no how I managed to miss that. Yer it came from nige. Problem seemed to be the required fuel value. also anyone got a pic of which wire goes where for the lambda sensor as not convinced that's round the right way.

Ok well I've got it started. But there's something not right with the settings I've got currently as won't rev properly and smokes like a bitch but she lives. So anyone with the basic settings for a 4.6 v8 I'd very much appreciate them.

New install. If anyone has the files for a 4.6 v8 would appreciate them so I can just use them and see if that works.

If i put 4600 in it comes up with an error saying the values are outside parameters and if i put 460 in then i get a req fuel of 12.9

and heres the required fuel calculator table

and here is the required fuel

here is cranking pw

Hi Guys, Having trouble with my megasquirt. It's a rover 4.6v8 When I crank I get a spark, when I turn the ignition on it fires 2 priming pulses. However while cranking the fuel pump runs fine but the injectors stop opening, and so obviously it won't start. from this I'm ASSUMING that the wires for the injectors is correct, the edis module is wired in correctly as its making a spark and that the msq module is getting a signal from the edis 8 module as the fuel pump is running and I'm getting ab rpm of around 350. Any suggestions? I'm guessing one of my assumptions is wrong? Thanks in advance for any help

Yer I've tried the sensor the other way round. Doesn't work. Injectors get power from the msq circuit board Made a test light. Lights up when firing priming pulses but nothing after that. And i had a spare injector and u can feel it click when priming but nothing when cranking. Will look at cranking pw and where do u find required fuel?

Maybe 350 is a bit of an exaggeration but definitely 300+ Trigger wheel and vr sensor causing Edis to make a spark. Sensor 5 teeth behind or whatever it is. Have checked that many times already when I was struggling to get a spark. Could the msq be corrupted or something?