[Salisbury R&P]

Certainly doable with exactly the kit you describe, see here http://www.washbrook.net/Stage%203.htm

The 35 spline driveshafts means there is a possibility of fitting a Detroit 'Electrac' mmmmmmm.......nice!

Cheers

Andy

[Rod ends, heims and spherical joints.]

Good show chaps!

Freeagent: "Paddocks are doing Lemforder (think thats how you spell it) TRE's that have a grease nipple, Lemforder make the genuine part ones (i think) so they are pretty good... Paddocks are doing them for about £8..."

101 TRE's are about 9" long and have a bend in them to clear the diff pan, PA Blanchard catalogue price £124+VAT . Maybe the taper is standard LR? I'm going to be moving the steering arms up by 2" (relatively easy on 101 axles) so I think a straight bar should miss the diff pan.

dirtydiesel: "If you are scratch building a system you could do worse than to use 404 unimog TRE's, they are huge, they use a 24mm fine threaded shank and a large taper. and they are greasable and fully rebuildable."

Steering arms will be standard 101, other than drilled or bushed for bolting the rod ends two, Mog TRE's would be a great solution if the tapers are the same, however I think that's unlikely.

Warthog: "Check the link below, these have been reccomended to me several time for HD use? Known as "Johnny Jionts" They will need welding, but go upto 3"..I know they are stateside but if ya running 37's and ram assist, sound like you are in the realms of Rock Crawler territory?"

Specialist Leasure in the UK have these in there catalogue, but no doubt to order only, I think these are for suspension rather than steering though. Rock Crawler territory? Well maybe, its in the pursuit of strength/reliability, if I'm going to the trouble of putting these axles under a Disco, then I'm going to go the whole hog, maybe its unneccessary, but I believe in 'doing it properly, doing once'.

D90SV: There are now available certain joints that are of a suitable standard to use for every day/competition use...

Aaaahhhh! Music to my ears. I really do love this Forum Exactly what I'm looking for you will be contacted.

[Rod ends, heims and spherical joints.]

Why?

Well, they are for 101 axles, partly for strength, but also because 101 TRE's are extremely expensive, not sure if standard land rover TRE's will fit. It's likely I'll be fitting 37" tyres and ram assist steering, so I'd like it all to be as strong as possible.

Quite a few people are starting to use rod ends for trailing arms with some success and most of the adjustable panhard rods I see for sale also have rod ends.

It would also make it relatively straight forward to make new HD track rods and drag links.

There's a huge difference in quality in the range of rod ends.

I was hoping dust boots, grease nipples and good quality Rod ends might last a little longer.

Are standard LR TRE's going to reliable in this situation?

All advice/thoughts gratefully received

Andy

[Rod ends, heims and spherical joints.]

I want to replace all the joints on the steering with Rod ends, I've looked at a few suppliers and the list of types in the size required is pretty long. A Google search came up with a supplier who had some recommendations, which for off road were chromoly with ptfe liners, I was really hoping for something with grease nipples and at the moment I can only find metal to metal with grease nippples.

Anyone have any wisdom on the subject?

Cheers

Andy

[10 minutes light relief anyone?]

yep, thats the oddballs

The Carina/mog/cossie thing is Arnis from Latvia

the Jeep/Mog is Margus Peets (allround god) from Estonia, famous for competing in a white shirt and never getting it dirty (git git git)

The 88"/Laplander is Alexandur Suur (very very large allround god) from Estonia

The Red Niva/Mog/BMW is Urvo Mumme (its for sale €20,000) also Estonian (can you see a trend here)

the footage is a mix of Ladoga and the Baltic cup (we're hoping to compete in this next year)

I wanna go back..........

not a lot in common with UK stuff I know but I love it, I think the bigger protos would do badly over here but in their element they are something else - although there seems to be a trend from Russia towards building smaller, lighter, much faster and more powerful protos - I think the next couple of years will be interesting, will the lightweight Russians hammer the Estonian/Latvian monsters???? they did this year but was it a fluke.....?

Most of the really good stuff comes from Oddballs.

I can understand you wanting to go back!!

Makes very good viewing.

[10 minutes light relief anyone?]

Just seen this on another Forum.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...7317&pr=goog-sl

Some of Jez's friends no doubt. Loads of defenders and Disco's.

Andy

[Big Extreme Tyre advice please?]

I used to run Simex ETs - the first week I had them I kept looking out the window and above me ton see whether the C-47 was actually trying to land on top of me. Great off-road, not great on road.

Krawlers and BFG muds are great tyres - I have driven other people's vehicles with both. I believe the Krawlers will wear substantially more quickly with onroad use as they use a softer compound designed for rock-crawling. The narrowest you can get in a 33"+ size is 12.5".

I have Q78/16 Super Swamper TSLs (bias). Offroad I would put them right up there with Simex ETs. They are not as aggressive but they air down much better. On road they are substantially better than Simex ETs. If you forget to air up and leave your rig parked up a while, you will get the "Bogger hop" that Jez so aptly refers to. They are 35.5"x 9.5" width rather than the 11" width mentioned above. They are a great Land Rover tyre! The radials seem somewhat less aggressive but will alleviate "Bogger hop" and be even more road friendly. The best size in the radials is 36" x 12.5/16 but the actual tread width is only 9.5" so also a good call.

The Q78/16 has me bugged! Can't find that designation on the website http://www.intercotire.com/site24.php

there are several TSL's which ones?

The width refers to the section width on all tyres, where the tyre bulges at its most, not the tread width.

Yourself and Daves3 now have me very interested in these tyres.

Any experience with Pit Bulls over there?

Edited to say found em'!

Andy

[Big Extreme Tyre advice please?]

A few Speed ratings

Simex ET's 35/16 N 87mph, 36/16 L 75mph

BFG's MT's Q 100mph

Procomp Xterrains 35&37/15 Q 100mph, 35/16 (315/75) N 87mph, 37/16 (325/80) Q 100mph

Pit Bull Rockers 35&37 Q 100mph

Pit Bulls are bias tyres that have a 100mph speed rating Shows you how much I know!

Andy

[Big Extreme Tyre advice please?]

Boring bit (sorry).

A friend was looking for more extreme tires for his Rangey, he was warned that they must have a suitable speed rating for the vehicle (Defender/ Series motors were OK due to the usage).

This would affect the legality of road use and insurance of the vehicle?

Don’t know if it is true but worth investigating.

I had forgot about that! IIRC Simex are only rated to about 60/70 mph

I know Simon Buck has done 100+ in his rangey on ET's tyres (OBC).

I don't think they are liable to fly apart but it is something to think about?

Regarding insurance obviously they must be declared as part of your modifications.

I'm not sure about defining usage, whats the difference between a Disco doing 80mph and a defender doing 80mph.

Most crossplies/bias tyres are only rated to 75mph.

I suppose nobody takes any notice until something happens, then the book gets thown at them for having a dangerous vehicle.

Andy

[Big Extreme Tyre advice please?]

The Krawlers are a very interesting alternative, seem ideal. Not considered them before because I thought they were a special competition tyre, didn't realise they made a TA version.

Can only find 2 sizes at the moment 35" 15"rim and 37" 16" rim.

Alledgedly going to make a 40" version aswell.

Is the importer going to bring them in? Might try a phone call later.

Freeagent: if you are only going to do 'fun day' challenge events and laning, why don't you look at BFG muds?

Didn't consider BFG's because they don't import the 315/75R16 into the UK, only the 35 12.50 15 (shame).

15" rim won't clear the brakes.

Exellent opinions on the Simexs, Keep em comin. Nobody with Procomps?

Cheers

Andy

[Big Extreme Tyre advice please?]

I bet that Topic title has probably grabbed your attention...eh!

I'm having alot of trouble deciding on tyres for my Disco, I realise I can't have what everybody wants.

ie. Awsome off road, grippy and quiet on road and everlasting!

Do I really need 2 sets of tyres?

Does anyone run Simex or its copies on the road as a day to day vehicle?

I don't do a huge mileage, I use the Disco for work and rarely have to drive more than 20 minutes to get there, the majority of my mileage is running around locally.

The tyre choices are like this; Simex ET's relativley cheap to buy, availability, good off road.

Procomp X Terrain, Quiet on road, good longevity, ok offroad.

Swampers Irok/TSL etc, any advice?

Pit Bulls etc.

The Disco's on my business so tyre's can be set against Tax, which softens the blow a little. £200 per tyre is a ball park figure. 35" and 12" wide and has to be on a 16" rim.

I love the look of Simex especially the 36" ET2's theres no doubt about their credentials off road, but how long would they last as a day to day tyre? Anyone wore any out?

Is the noise on road unbearable or just the same as say, SAGs?

I know you have to go steady in the wet, but are they leathal?

The other tyre I'm leaning towards is the Procomp, I've heard of people getting huge mileage from these tyres, so they can work out to be good value. I think it was designed as more of a rock crawling tyre than a mud plugger anyone have any experience?

Planned usage is play days, green lanes and not to serious challenge events aswell as day to day.

Some people say you should not be using ET's on green lanes, any thoughts?

Are procomps a big disadvantage compared to ET's in the challenge arena ?

Are all the american Tyres E marked? Availability is much better now, but sod's law says when you need a replacement urgently the answers " We're expecting them in in two weeks time".

What would you buy and reasons please.

Do I go for procomps now and then later get a set of Simex copies?

Cheers

Andy

[rear winch]

but i'm not sure how to avoid bunching when winding in?

Any idea's?

The only thing I can think of is to mount the pulley on the opposite side of the truck, cable should (hope) spool cleanly, could use a swingaway so that it could be unclipped when not in use? maybe!?

Ideally, build something in the workshop, then you can experiment how close/far the pulley needs to be to spool cleanly.

I'm no engineer Just bouncing ideas around.

Andy

[rear winch]

I've been giving this some thought as well.

Logitudinal with a pulley is a clever idea.

I want to get rid of the overhanging bumper also, so what I was thinking involved a fair bit of fabrication.

1. Remove rear crossmember and reduce chassis rails.

2. Form new winch tray incorporating fuel tank rear mountings and acts as new rear crossmember.

3. Cut and shut rear body crossmember and strengthen.

4. Adapt a front HD bumper to fit rear.

I'm thinking of raising the body about 1.5" for tyre clearance this will help in fitting winch and also allow me to raise fuel tank level with chassis rails.

Using something like an EP9 as they're pretty compact, a 160mm sq x 600mm long winch tray.

Devon 4x4 did something similar to JJ Kealey's Disco, corners of the bumper wrapped around to the rangie spares arches, getting rid of the lower corners of bodywork aswell, still a fair bit of overhang though.

A fair bit of work but the Disco's arse does tend to get dragged along a fair bit so should be worthwhile, Hope to start aroud July time.

Andy

[radiator hose]

Merlin motorsport stocks it here http://www.merlinmotorsport.com/index.php?...48c0ba379ac7ea6

Hope that works.

[building a 12V compressor....]

For all the nay-sayers (Nick!):

Works pretty well considering how gash it is. Motor is an Iskra 800w 12v item from Ellis Components. It's a Perm Magnet type, but seems to be plenty up to the job.

Develops sufficient torque to get the compressor up to about 300psi (at which point the pneumatic push fitting burst with a 'slight' pop!)

I would say, without a shadow of doubt that pretty much any starter motor will run the thing. It's hard to find a starter motor with less power or torque than this motor.

Si

Si, I read somewhere, that you were looking at making a conversion kit or something for "On Board Air" using a Sanden compressor, is this true? If it is then I can add it to the list of your gear that is going to go on my disco . Looking at that picture I can see what I think is a grease nipple, any more info, Please .

[Salisbury Axles....]

As far as I know, you cannot just swap the diff centres between salisbury's, if that's what you are thinking of doing. Ring and pinions are matched and stamped, pinions have to be set at a specific height depending on there markings. So you need to completely dissasemble.

All salisbury's have 4 pin centres and are hypoid, that's why there so strong.

If you are swapping diffs to get rid of the clonking, are you sure its the diff and not the driveshaft/drive flange, common wear problem, I believe racers weld them together!

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, but worth checking drive flanges first.

Andy

[Warn 8074 on a Disco 1]

Hi Mark

Very professional, I'm hoping to do something similar, need the winch first , do you have a gap between the back of the winch to the rad? Or could you or someone else tell me how deep the 8274 is? I'm hoping I can fit it behind grill completely and then have a removable homemade grill.

[De-tuning a 3.9 V8]

Short Preface:

Surprise, surprise, I have arrived at the conclusion that my 2.25 pertol, even with the beneficial bolt on ACR stuff just isn't enough power, especially with those 36" SS on the portals.

In the Land of "cubic inches are King" I could/should put the SBC 350 in and an NP435 with a 6.68 1st gear. But that is a lot of fabbing and modding and I do not have the time, tools, or facilities here in any event to do anything complex. I have worked out a deal to do the odd bit here and there on the Tonka at my corner mechanic's shop on the weekend, but a repower is outside those parameters so anything I do will be spendy.

For that reason, I am down to two options (covered in previous thread):

A very neat conversion to a GM 2.5 4 cyl (descendant of the Iron Duke) bored out to 3.0 l with a nice flat torque curve that is virtually bolt in, but very spendy, or; Numbers are 127 hp and 178 lbs ft torqu with 160 pretty much off idle.

Rover V8 to Series box.

The Analysis:

Before all the cries of "change to an LT77 or R380 and LT230", remember that these, while not exactly on the same shelf as hen's teeth over here, are much more scarce and expensive and would require much chopping, fabbing, shifting etc. That = money.

On the other hand, most of the components needed for bolting to the Series box are readily available and it's much less faffy.

"But the power" you say. A detuned V8 delivering 130 HP will generate a power to weight ratio of 81 HP per (US) ton - exactly the same as the reported power of my 5.9 L I6 Cummins Turbo Diesel Ram pickup. On torque, a 180 lbs/ft Rover V8 in the Tonka will deliver exactly the same torque per (US) ton (112) as the average petrol V8 would in a similar full-size pick up (350 lbs/ft). I bet that, with conservative use of the skinny pedal and for the conditions I use it in, the Series box will stand up to those numbers. Granted, others wouldn't. My bet, my risk.

Now, ideally, there would be that carbed 8:1 compression 3.5 lying around that nobody wanted because everyone is putting TDI's in their rigs anyway (yes, I would love a Defender 200 TDI - who's got one with all the ancillaries this side of the pond and will sell it to me as cheap as a V8?). But the 3.5 didn't make it over here in numbers (although the Buick ancestor exists), so I'm looking at having to do this with a 3.9.

The Mission:

So - here's the challenge. Would you please give me your recommendations for detuning a 3.9 to @ 130 hp and 180 lbs/ft while delivering the most torque low down as practical - including suggestions for the right cam/cam profile if possible. Fuel economy is not a major consideration b/c my 2.25 doesn't do better than 14 mpg on a good day and despite all the screaming here, $ 2.85 a gallon is not the end of the world. Reliability is a key consideration (in the LR sense of the word admittedly).

Thanks for thoughts on an admittedly odd request.

What about a 3rd option!

Supercharge the Landy.

I'm sure all the necessary bits and info are available in the states, and you can still drive the truck around while your sorting/fabricating bits for it, tune in what power you want by changing pullies etc, no exhaust to make, no engine mounts, no adapter plates and reuse the SU ideal for supercharging. Torque increase from Tickover up!

I'm afraid I'd want the SBC 350/ 435 B) , but I can understand your reasoning.

Remember!! If some is good, more is better and too much is just right!!

[Tow hitches - NATO and 50mm ball in one?]

Hmm, will have to keep my eyes open at gaydon this weekend then.

Strangely, these were on sale ay Gaydon last year! Can't remember who wasn't one of the big boys.

Seem to remember they were made in Brazil. When I had a fiddle with it I found the pin or something wouldn't locate or something, when I pointed this out the guy tried and he couldn't either a little embarrassing for him as he'd just spent 5 minutes telling what a perfect bit of kit they were!

I think about £90 may have been over £100.

I'll be at Gaydon Its only 10 minutes away .

[Hello from the newbie!]

Never mind the Jeep, that is Pete!

Is it just me? What is an SoA?

Chris

Spring Over Axle like a FC101 as apposed to the leaves being under as per series trucks.

Lots of modded Suzuki's running around SOA aka LOA( Leaf Over Axle).

Andy

[Hello from the newbie!]

Hi, sounds like an interesting project.

Maybe start a build thread on the member's vehicles section?

What made you decide on SoA?

Al.

Hi Al

Longer springs for flex, but they reduce approach/departure angle, SoA gets some of that back, raising the spring mounts because I dont think a 6"+ lift is necessary. Also very clean under the axle, nothing to snag, parabolics are nice, simple and low weight.

Andy

[Hello from the newbie!]

[

P.S. just noticed you havent filled in your profile!

Errrrrr I'll look into that right away!

edited: I now have a profile!

[Hello from the newbie!]

Well, I've been lurking for the last few weeks, gone all the way through all the threads and the archive, was a member on the 'Dark side' but never a poster. Was without web for about 12 months so don't know what happened to the old site, I enquired at Scrapion about getting some Mcnamaras for a pair of 101 axles, they said try looking on this website as a guy (Bathtub) is using 101 axles on his truck, isn't that irony for you! This was after the X-Eng theft thread.

I was frankly gobsmacked at the depth of knowledge by some you, the archive is like an Alladins cave!

I have a project in the garage, hence the forum name, I've a brand new designa chassis, it is a coil conversion 88" but without any coil mounts or brackets, to this is mounted Ti console Parabolics on raised, not lowered, custom spring mounts, the front springs are J**p 46" long as opposed to LR 36", shackles fr and rr are genuine Revolvers. A Disco 200tdi engine is sitting quietly in the corner along with military 110 gearbox(3.9 1st I believe), the back axle has been moved back 5" to 93", 101 axles will take there place under the springs a pair of Zeus disc brake kits were purchased last year I'm still recovering!

12" travel Procomps will be attached at each corner. Inspiration for all this was Tim Coopers truck from the states without the 350 Chevy of course, http://www.gon2far.co.uk/index.php?do=vehicles/cooper.html unfortunately I havn't touched it in nearly a year , been far too busy at work I went self employed to have more free time . Met a Thai woman last year on a business/peasure trip to Thailand (funny that) another 3 visits later and we were married on March 10th , its a healthy mix of love and lust, and no there isn't much age difference. Just finished a 3" thick folder for the Visa application and that should see me with a bit more spare time on my hands.

Reading about all your trucks has made me very envious to the point were I bought a 200tdi Disco auto 2 weeks ago, a little untidy but structurally sound, changed the head gasket, radiator and one or 2 other little jobs, bought it for the auto box, easier and maybe cheaper than sourcing all the 200tdi bits, I have a manual box to swap in its place. But I'm going to have a play with this first, SOA 93 is going to have to wait . The 101 axles will be going under the Disco along with a whole load of other mods in the next couple of months (there I've said it now) I hope! Needless to say I have a long list of question for some of you, I'm gonna be like a little kid tugging at your sleeve .

Hope thats enough info for you lot at the moment, can't take any pics of SOA 93 at the moment because its lying under a sea of dust sheets and other work associated carp. The Disco is metalic burgandy 5 door.

I think I've got some pics of the chassis on my old Hard drive disc copy thingy . I'll see if I can dig them out, don't hold your breath.

Feel like I know some of you already, sad git that I am, and hope to meet some of you in the future.

Fave truck has to go to dolleythelw for his 'Pig' can't wait to see his new truck. discodino's truck is looking good and I'm dying to see the 'Bathtub' in action.

Cheers

Andy

[Another quality product]

[Ok, I know a little about this subject, being a builder, get yourself some glass/tile drills, they have them at B&Q, homebase etc, they're not expensive and they'll go through most tiles like butter. However, some tiles are b*****d hard! Try not to let the drill tip over heat, keep a little water handy, overheating the drill bit will shorten its life by a huge amount, if the tiles are super hard then you may need to keep sharpening the tip, as said above try a smaller drill first, only necessary on the hardest tiles. Don't use the drill on hammer and only use to go through the tile, masonry bits and hammer have a habit of cracking tiles espesially when close to an edge! customers don't like that.

I thought this was a LR forum?

Good Luck

[tdi to v8 box ...??]

Funnily enough, while looking around for some 101 stuff, found this maybe perfect for you, He's selling loads of new stuff, maybe he still has the new bell housing, http://www.101club.org/smallads/ I'm new to this posting thing so I'm not sure if that link will work, Good luck.