[6cyl SWB?]

Some more photos, still experimenting with posting pictures 🙄 Not sure how to resize them to make them fit the screen. First two were attached direct from my iPad. These are done via post image.

[6cyl SWB?]

This is the engine I have planned for the conversion. It’s out of a 1965 P5 auto and more or less complete but will require a full strip down and rebuild. Torque converter needs to come off and the dyno replaced with an alternator. Convert the dizzy to points free operation and hopefully the angle of the exhaust manifold should allow a relatively easy adaptation to the existing down pipe.

 

[Engine set-up]

Looks like it’s been overheating at some point going by the staining around the radiator cap.

[6cyl SWB?]

Cheers Jeremy. Those photos make things much clearer. If you didn’t use the mechanical fan do you think you might avoid the need to remove some of the radiator surround? Does the crank pulley or sump come close to any fixtures or the crossmember?

[6cyl SWB?]

The engine mounts on the six cylinder engine seem to be about 6” further forward of those on the four cylinder block. Is the depth of the six cylinder bell housing the same as the four cylinder one in which case would it just be a matter of moving the existing mounts 6” further toward the front of the chassis?

If so then that would put the new engine mount where that bracing is to the left of the bolt. 🤨 If the six cylinder bell housing was not as deep as the four cylinder one then that would help as there’s still a bit of room at the back of the engine bay for the six cylinder to sit closer to the bulkhead.

[6cyl SWB?]

3 hours ago, secondjeremy said:

4 - 6 cylinder boxes.

 

Leaving aside the 1 tonne box the 6 cylinder has a different gear lever.

There are 2 bellhousing bolt patterns - one for ioe engines - 1.6, 2.0, amd 6 cylinder and another for OHV engines.

Then there's the larger layshaft bearings of the later S2/2a boxes

Then the S3 clutch cylinders - avaiable for both types of bellhousing.

 

Cheers for the info. I’m hoping to retain a full synchro box but it sounds like I need to source a complete S3 6 cylinder box rather than just bolt a 6 cylinder bell housing to my existing 2.25 box which I thought I could do originally.

[Galvanised Chassis Suppliers]

Cheers, always good to get real world feedback.

[6cyl SWB?]

They sure do Mr Freezer, thank you very much 👍. My engine is the 3.0 out of a P4 Rover but hopefully the 2.6 bell housing, flywheel and clutch will bolt straight on. I notice the gearbox numbers are different though. Are the 4&6 cylinder boxes interchangeable or do they have different ratios?

[Rattler and son 1971 S11a swb Restoration]

The Matt black looks good.

[6cyl SWB?]

29 minutes ago, Michele said:

I'm in the middle of converting my ex mil 109" IIA to 3 lt Rover (Westlake head, Weber carb), keeping the factory bulkhead (mine's LHD).
The engine sounds great on stand, I'm glad to hear such positive comments about those who owned one, I hope it will perform as good as it sounds :-)

I didn’t realise there was a Weber conversion available, do you have any further details please?

 

[6cyl SWB?]

Another gearbox query if anyone can help, are the six and four cylinder boxes the same except for the bell housing and if so are the bell housings interchangeable?

Same question for the flywheel.

[Galvanised Chassis Suppliers]

I know there are a number of good suppliers out there but can anyone recommend one in particular especially for quality and perhaps the ability to adapt the design slightly to the users requirements? I’m thinking that if I fit the 6 pot to mine then the air cleaner position is different to that on the four pot next to the battery tray so I would like to have that done first rather than cut and reweld afterwards.

[Booster packs]

14 minutes ago, simonr said:

In my experience, the majority of starting problems are down to poor electrical connections.  One of the biggest issues on LR's is using the chassis for the earth return on the starter.

I would suggest running a heavy 25 or 35mm^2 cable from the battery -ve to one of the starter mounting bolts.  Also replace the braided strap from the starter to the chassis, giving the studs a good wire-brushing.  Cover all the connections in petroleum jelly before tightening which will give it long term protection from corrosion.

This gives the starter and battery the best possible chance - and is a lot cheaper than either.

Running a similar heavy earth from the Alternator to the battery also helps charging performance. 

A jump pack is still useful when all else has failed and you're going to be late for work!

Si

 

Agreed. Stick a battery jump lead between the battery -ive and the starter mounting bolt. If cranking improves you know you’re looking in the right area.