isbjorn
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Posts posted by isbjorn
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Hello.
Ive lost my copy of Rave, so does anyone have the part no. for the two small hinges in the bottom of a STC53161?
Thanks.
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14 hours ago, Sigi_H said:
One Ten with electronics? 🙂 ... ok, I forgot the Radio ...
Never had one!
12 hours ago, Red90 said:Being in Sweden, he is sitting on the battery. It is not fun when one explodes and catches on fire. There is nothing like a battery box full of hydrogen.
I would never dream of driving a LHD Land rover.
16 hours ago, Peaklander said:The voltage variation that you are seeing is exactly what we had with our 300TDi when the fault was the diode pack. It is a very cheap fix of around £10 and with ours the alternator was left in position. There is a thread somewhere on here I think that describes how to do it.
Ill check it. Thanks
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Matching font was Aileron Bold... if anyone would like to know.
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Thanks. I'll have a look at the regulator.
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Hello.
I got a 200tdi 1984 defender. Sometimes when driving (not sure exactly why or when, but I think it might be when accelerating, makes sense to me) the volt meter (Got a madman setup) jumps to 17-18V and stays there for 10-20 seconds. Last time it was accompanied by a loud squealing noise. Sounds like a slipping alternator belt, or failing tensioner, but wouldn't a slipping belt give lower volts not higher?
Just realised the truck has a low constant screaking noice as well. But If its the alternator bearing that should result in lower volts... not higher.
Any suggestions to what's happening...? Im getting tired of placing the lightbulbs every month.
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I will ask him. Anyone know which Font/type they used?
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Hallo.
Anyone knows where I can get a new Hydraulic Power Take Off warning sticker for my defender, Its a Special utility vehicle.
Its decal no. 7956-A4.
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I bought mine from Safari Equip (wva Holding). Its the same, but I asked for it galvanised. Had it on for 12 years now and it looks like new.
175 GPB for the carrier,
30 GBP for the galvanisation. Well worth the money
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And how do you actually go about rustproofing the inside of the bulkhead. So far I've found:
Remove the top hinge bult and spray in the hole using a pipe and a 360 head..
Use the holes next to the wipers (that is covered with small round rubber bits) and spray spray spray...
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Hello.
I think I once had a PDF from landrover about rust proofing the Defender. Where to spray to reach all cavities and so on... Not sure I'm remembering correctly, but a bit like the water ingress manual but for spraying vax, dinitrol, oil or whatever your favorit method is. (I vote Linseed oil).
Am I correct, or is it just something I dreamt? Cant find any traces from it on the web anyway...
thanks.
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Quote
No reason, but it's abit extreme when a few penny washers and longer bolts to raise it above the small lip is all it takes.
I just figure this would keep the seat at its orignal height (every cm counts), but still move more backwards..
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First off, you need to put a bit of effort into this or it won't work out. You are the one who wants a custom setup. You need to understand it and make sure it is implemented properly.
Will do! Thanks for the tip.
Ill let you know how it goes.
QuoteAlthough they move you backwards and upwards, the height is enough to push the seat over the lip.
Any reason why I cant just cut the lit with a grinder?
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3 hours ago, crwoody said:
How about a bulkhead removal (or partial) to enable the seat to go back a bit further, I did this to my 2004 90 last year and it makes a big difference and far more comfortable drive.
This only lets me recline the seat more right? I would rather move the whole seatbase backwards (without lifitng it). Never found the seating position bad, only missing a bit of legroom.
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10 minutes ago, Red90 said:
Umm, I gave it to you. No wire cutting required. Disconnect existing switch and run wires from new switch to connector.
Well, without having tried it. The td5 got 5 cables, like the switch you suggested (also its 24v?). I think the intermittence and washed pump is controlled though the ECU. Maybe it dosent matter. Do you recon I can just plug it in and it should work? Or do you mean that I should plug it directly to the wiper engine?
For the 200tdi (oneten, converted) it looks more promising..
Thank for the link by the way
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2 hours ago, crwoody said:
How about a bulkhead removal (or partial) to enable the seat to go back a bit further, I did this to my 2004 90 last year and it makes a big difference and far more comfortable drive.
Well, one of the trucks is a HCPU, so unless I sit on the bed it aint gonna work
The problem with moving the seat backwards is that all the adapters rails raises the seat a few cm and then you need a smaller steering wheel, but they are just lame compared to the original ones
I guess i have to study the wire diagrams, But it would be nice to have a simple solution for the TD5 and the 200tdi that dosent require any cable cutting. Ill do some more research.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Hello.
I got a issue with all my defenders ( 2 at the moment, a 1999 and a 1984) . Since im quite tall I cant use the lower setting on my windscreen wiper.. ↓ My knee is in the way.
Has anyone tried replacing the switch arm with let say a serie wiper switch. Or something else on the dash rather then by the steering wheel... like a Universal 3 Position Windscreen Wiper Switch.
thanks
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Ouch, that was a quite juicy price.... But thanks for the link!
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Hi. Got a defender 110 Td5 1999, 3 doors utility wagon. I would like to replace the body capping on the sides with galvanised ones. But I can't figure out the part no. I can just find RH rear body capping 110 SW ASR1391, ASR1390, But they are for the 5 door version. I only got 3 doors....
Not my car in the Pic. But same model.
Any help is appreciated
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I replaced the Power steering pump. Simple job, one bolt needed a bit persuasion but thats all. I only needed to remove the fan and fan belt. Then I clamped the pipes as close as possible to the pump, so I almost didn't loose any fluids.
Now it works prefect. Apparently it was like you guys suggested the seal inside the pump..
Thanks for all the help...
ps. Also replaced the front window seal.. quite straight forward job with the rope trick
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There is apparently pressure in it. Ive bleed it and it sprayed quite a bit of fluid all over the place. opened the bleed screw to much
So the pump should be running I guess. Om my other td5 there is always a noise when holding the wheel at maximum turn. But this one is totally quiet.. Maybe that is something.
drain it and put new ATF in with a small amount of Lucas power steering additive. might be the pump seals gone.Shouldn't there be a leak if the seal is gone? Or maybe its just gives bad pressure?
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Belt looks fine. All wheels are spinning nicely with the belt. Can it be a blocked pipe or something? Im not getting any response or noise form the power steering at all...
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As in not correctly tighten belt? The td5 only got one belt right?
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Hi.
We got a td5 110 in ok condition. Everything works, but the power steering is lacking. There is no response from it, like driving without basically. So very heavy on standstill and slow speeds.
No noises or sounds when turning, No fluid loss. The fluid looks good.
Where should I start looking?
Any tips?
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Mystery solved then. Thanks!
Hinge for STC53161 (front lamp protection)
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
Ahh, P clip. Didn't know that word. Makes it much easier
thanks