isbjorn
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Posts posted by isbjorn
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Ok. So far so god. I removed the bottom plate and had a look at the planetgears. They looked, according to me, quite fine. No direct wear. There where some metal grains in the oil but not very much. I was aspecting something much worse. Anyway the middle gears connected to the intermediate shaft are moving around 1-2 centimeters sideways. The other two sets of gears seams stable and fine. My guess is as before that the shaft is broken i the middle. Se the linked video. Or whats your opinion before I start removing the rear prop shaft to check it properly.
video no. 1: http://www.norly.com/transfer.mov
I might ad that the gears are movable a bit by hand. I dont know if thats the way it should be but I can rotate them ruffly 2 cm back and forth. See video no 2
video no. 2: http://www.norly.com/transfer2.MOV
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ok. Then I know all I need to know. Thanks for the help, it was quick.
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Perfect thanks.
How big of a project is it to do a overhaul of the box? Is it possible to do it without removing the whole block (including gears) from the car, or can I split it so that only the tranfer box gets lose?
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Hi.
Im about to embark on the mission to renovate my transfer box (LT230T, 4 cyl 1.4:1) since we drove it (a 200tdi) without any oil and that didnt go wery well. I would like to get a bit wiser before I (or a workshop) starts fibbling with it, so please enlighten me with your knowledge.
History:
My brother drove the car in 100km/h and he heard a loud bang. Then the car started making all kinds of noise from below the seats. Burned oil smoke started coming in thru the floor/gears. According to him it also started hacking, which I haven't been able to confirm.
Investigation:
We test drove the car with the middle seat removed so we could se the rear prop shaft. It was spinning correctly, but there was also a bolt that rotated in the same speed as the shaft (see image). It got stuck from time to time witch created some bad noises. We checked the oil and it was completely dry. When we refilled it, the bolt stopped moving but there is still a lot of noise when driving above 10-20 kmp/h (grinding and banging from the box). Something is definitely broken.
Question:
1. I haven't been able to find a nice schematic over the transfer box, so I dont know what the bolt is doing. I think I could guess that one of the gearwheels are connected to it in some way. It should definitely not rotate, maybe it has snapped inside?
2. What is the most likely thing to brake in the box first? I guess if the gears are broken it wouldn't drive at all (i haven't been able to check if both prop shafts are getting power).
3. How big of a project is it to open/check the box? I assume I have to remove it from the chassie and disconnect all the diff and gearboxes? Is it possible to open it from bellow to have a peak?
Also, i have to apologize for treating my car like this. I thought it was checked at the last service. sorry
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Was searching around and thought I might add a photo of how they look. a bit messy but it might help someone else...
http://duckfieldengineering.com/defender/gearbox.htm <- help with identification of gearbox and transfer boxes.
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Ive done it myself to two both my front doors from 1992. The where almost completely destroyed by rust on the lower inside and the left one was bent due to strong wind and a stupid driver. Both stabilizing metal beams thats on the inside was rusted straight of and the door was only hanging by the aluminum between the two hinges.
Get a good grinder remove the worst parts and try to get the rustiest stuff away. Then bend a new aluminum or steel U-beam or L-beam and weld on top of the old on. (use a thin one on the lower side or it wont fit properly in frame. It quite simple, but it wont last forever, Took ruffly a day to clean, weld and put a first layer of paint on it. Then fill the inside with rust-stopper paint. And your ready to go.
I would on the other hand recommend you to buy a pair of other door and spray them, its easier.
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Is it safe to remove the front propeller shaft and only drive on the back propshaft, to test if the noise disappears? Or can it make any damage on the car?
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Nice with so many respones.
Well the noise is only present when the clutch is not engaged, I mean when Im stepping on the gas pedal not the clutch. I dont think its the wheel bearings because it sounds more like its coming from the engine, and only in certain speeds. Also i noticed that there is a weaker but still grinding noise (quite similar sound) when I drive in hi speed, and release the gas pedal without stepping on the clutch (the engine usually brakes a little).
Ill have a look at the propeller shaft this weekend and let you know what I found. Thanks for the help so far.
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Hi.
Ive been asking around for helo at various workshops in both sweden and iceland, but everyone tells me its a landrover problem (aka nothing to do about it, and no one knows why). Since you guys seems to know your thing, i thought you might be able to help.
The problem:
When driving in 70-75km/h in any gear, a hi metallic grinding noise accore. It dosent mater which gear Im on as a long as I haven't engaged the clutch. I would have guessed the front axel, because the noise seems to come from the lower front of the car. But then its a bit weird that it only occurs between 70-75km/h and at any engine spin rate (dont know the name of it).
The car:
A 1992 Defender 110 with the 300tdi with around 15 000miles on it. A wicked engine by the way.
By the way, if you going to have your car rebuilt or repaired Iceland is a perfect place, good mechanics, cheep, nice people and a lot of experience
lose proshaft and transferbox gears
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi.
A new question that started with my renovation of the transfer box. Is it normal to have so much play in the front prop shaft (ruffly 5-10 cm, check the video)? When i move the prop with my hand the gears in the transfer box moves as well. (the rear prop shaft is fixed). This should indicate that the prop shaft is okay, but something else is severely worn. Or am I completely wrong? Since Im stripping the transfer box i might as well try to fix this to. I dont know what should stop the motion, but I guess its the front axel hub that should do it, and that its bearings are worn out?
Its a defender 110 1992, 300TDI, LT230T, 4 cyl 1.4:1
video no 1: http://www.norly.com/propfront.mov
thankful for some thoughts.
(Since I think this is a new subject im starting a new thread. The other one with transfer box without oil is here. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...p;#entry409176)