isbjorn
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Posts posted by isbjorn
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Update: So Ive removed the head and the gasket seams perfectly fine on both sides, as does the head itself. Very strange, the question is if its good news or bad? If the everything looks fine, the cylinders is smooth. the head is streight and the gasket is like new (kind of, it left a lot of plastic recidues on the metal, but it not cracked), what the heck has then happended to my td5?
Also the plastic dowel has melted, but that should not effect the engine right?
any guessses? All I know is it overheated (problebly) and then a loud fast hammering noise following the revs.
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Ive read somewhere that you should not under any circumstances change the plastic for metal ones on vin 2A-3A 00000 models (ruffly 2002-2003 td5s). Is this true, Ive got a earlier one XA 00000 so It should be fine. Can anyone point me to the right part no? I guess its YLL500040 but im not sure. Its for a 99 TD5 XA
cheers.
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Ha, thats what I wanna hear... Ill dismantle it tomorrow. Thanks.
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Is there any standard stuff I should replace while I still have her opened, except gasket and bolts. I have some week memory of the early td5s having some plastic parts that is replaceable with metal ones...
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Thanks. Ill try that. What else is the possible stuff that can happen when overheating?
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You mean the gasket or the whole engine?
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Hi.
I thought I would check with you guys before I start my repair adventure. My return cable from the intercooler to my extension tank melted and that resulted in my engine running almost dry (the temp dropped to 0, must have missed it raising to red first). I stopped, fixed the cable and filled her up with water again and the temp went back to normal. She run fine for 10 min but after that i got a loud hammering sound that follows the engine revs. She drives fine, and no white smoke. But the noise is super loud and not very nice... Any ideas.
I thought It can be the head gasket has broken between two cylinders (cant see any leak along the sides from the head). Or maybe its all turned a bit skew. I would assume it got overheated but Im not sure what the results may be...
thanks for any tips.
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1999 TD5 defender
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Hi. I need the number of the seal that sits under my STC1453 WASHER PUMP, between the pump and the water tank and in to the hole. Ive lost it and cant find a new one...
many thanks
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Well, it should be leaning the other way then.
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The rust has already taken care of that problem.
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Hmm, If I add those I should be 100% safe...
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Hmm, Well the spring is hold in place by pressure and cant dislocate that much since the damper will stop it from completely jumping away. But my front springs dont have any retainers that holds its in the bottom. I is only lying against a bottom plate (nrc9700). And I thought that was the way it always is or am I missing something. I might be out wandering in the dark now, but im just thinking that the spring might dislocate easier either on top or bottom. I could be wrong... Feel free to explain how stuff really works.
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exactly. Im more worried that it will flex to much so that the spring can jump loose. You think I should make a bigger bump stop?
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Ive moved this to a new post.
Is it possible to use terrafirmas all terrain dampers on regular springs? I know they are used for 2" lift kits but the webpage says "Terrafirma All Terrain shocks are the perfect replacement for existing shocks and yet can also accommodate up to 2" (50mm) of lift using Terrafirma coil springs".
But when I talk to my shop they says its impossible and that they are to long. Ive measured and its only 2-3 cm longer the LR originals. I have 2 TF116 and TF117 dampers and I want to use them with regular HD LR springs, does work?
Al ideas and tips are appreciated.
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Ahh, that explains it. Thanks a bunch.
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Hi.
What is the purpose for the original land rover springs to have one driver and one passenger version? Is it only because the weight is slightly more on the driver side if your riding alone? Sound a bit weird. No one else usually have that spec on there springs.
Should it not work just as well with two passenger springs in the front?
Thanks.
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Our feelings are with you. I hardly thought they could die...
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Thanks what I thought. Thanks for confirming.
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Do you know if the heater might requires a anti-drainback valve? its placed at the red cross in your version... The reason is that someone said it would draw air from the expansiontank. Can this be possible?
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Nope. My RAVE shows this. Its the only 1999 Defender spec my version has unfortunately. But your version is the right one... thanks, it all makes sense now.
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Hi.
Someone told me that a water heater (like webasto) requires an anti-drainback valve on the TD5 Engines. Is this true? The heater will be place after the expansion tank and just before the fuel cooler.
Hmm, for some reason I cant get the Cooler system component layout in RAVE to fit with my TD5. The section with the expansion tank does not look like it does on my car. Is this possible? The heater return hose goes in to a T-connection with expansion tank on left and fuel cooler on the right. Or am I totally lost?
thanks
frist gen td5 from 99
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I will. have to build a lightbar first.. costed ruffly 100EUR each.
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Well, on my previous def it was wired straight to the second battery and earthed in the chassi and that was 5x100w lights. Now its three xenon 55w so it shouldn't need that heavy stuff. And I also like the ide of putting the spare lights on a separate battery from the starter.
dry and overheated td5
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Ill google those errors, thanks.