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Posts posted by Porny
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btw there is a guy on here called Porny running standard springs with longer shocks and articulation, although he's invested in a White Peak Engineering kit to totally change mount positions of shocks etc to achieve this.
Cheers
Steve
Hrmm.... infamous at last
My 90:
More pictures here: http://www.whitepeakengineering.com/Weekenderkits.htm
Not fully twisted up though.
I know it was cheating, but I do like this picture:
At the moment I'm only running extended bump stops at the front - just up rated ones at the rear. If the axle is compressed horizontally then it will touch the bump stops just before the dampers bottom out... though if twisted, it doesn't.....
But then there are issues with running extended bump stops too (still messing with this).
From what I've seen, you'll be surprised what kits come with extended bump stops - yet they are actually not big enough to touch when twisted. The other problem is with so much twist, the axle pivots on the bump stop and rides around it - so it doesn't actually do anything.
On standard size tyres, my tyre just rubs the spring mount when compressed (twisted up) and isn't that far from the top of the wheel box. With bigger tyres, or more upward travel you would have to run a massive offset, and/or extend the top of the wheel boxes. Which I don't want to do.
As mentioned, my 90 runs completely standard 90 LR springs, it is only the dampers and the mounts that are different. I really don't see the point of a suspension lift on a 90 unless you are running bigger tyres... and I'm more than happy how my 90 handles (esp. with a set of -3 degree radius arms).
Ian
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I've got a 300Tdi 90!!
Chris you have a pm.
Ian
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The rims in question are for off road use only don't forget.... and not technically approved for road use. AFAIK they are not DOT, TUV etc etc tested, so I doubt VOSA would be that interested in a rim that technically shouldn't be used on the road....
Ian
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My Set-up....
Taken from the Whitepeak Engineering page, as it's my 90 fitted with the Weekender Kit in the pics
Ian
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Looks very similar to Andy's from www.whitepeakengineering.com
(you're not doing a Scorpion on us are you Nige ??? )
His runs a Safari Snorkel top.... and feeds a 3.9V8.
Can't find any better pictures at the moment though, apart from this one....
Ian
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From another forum....
http://home.pacific.net.au/~bhaz-dsl/TooManyHorses.pps
But I thought it was quite appropriate here!!
Ian
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Does anyone know if the sides of a 90 hardtop are the same size as that from a Series 3 ?
Or more to the point (ignoring the obvious roof difference) would series sides fit on a 90.
Nope, different length....
90 Side panels are unique to a 90.
Series SWB sides are the same size as 110" CSW sides though....
Ian
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The ECU is only progammed to the injectors
You don't need to worry about to this to any extent... will happily run even with the wrong codes
The immobiliser isnt really a problem, The real problem comes if the engine ecu and the security ecu are from different cars, but even then it's only a case of reprograming them.Very true... all you need is the ECU and the 10EAS (i think, though it's late) unit... and with the use of Rovacom or similar you can match them, and then set the ECU to the lowest level alarm set up.
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I'm building one too....
Well rebuilding my '86 90 into a TD5 spec jobbie.
Ian
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Blatent plug.... but I've got a Salisbury QT Diffguard for sale.... VGC.
Was going to put it on flEBay, but haven't got round to it yet!
Ian
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Nice articulation Porny - we watched you go up and down after the 110 Tombraider and thought you were going to fall off!
It was miles off tipping..... I think Did get quite close to the top though!!!!
Not bad for standard springs..... and a few tweaks!!! And nothing orange in sight!
Some bloke told me off for ruining my 50th with the winch and mud tyres. I smiled nicely and assured him that it all would unbolt and I put the original alloys with the AT's on for special long-distance occasions!There was some 'interesting' people there.... some bloke was telling me that Land Rover 90's were rare!!!.... esp. truck cab ones. Hrmmm.... must have walking round with his eye's shut!!!
Ian
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IMHO it was not quite up to last year's due to the LR "Terapod" (the artificial off-road course thing) being set up slap bang in the middle of it and taking up a hoooge space that should've been the arena (could LR not drive round while stuff went on in the middle?)
I agree....
Overall though, not that bad. Some bits were better than last year.
Ian
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So, what was your RTI score?
Si
800 (ish) forwards....
and 840 in the end backwards I think.
Not sure on the final one, as went up a few times!!!
Ian
P.s. should have gone a bit higher so people could see a 'genuine' X-Eng Handbrake!!!
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Who was there then???.....
Who's got pictures???.....
Pics of mine for starters..... (should really have all the wheels on the floor though!!!)
Ian
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Low tension aren't around anymore AFAIK.... the unit they used to work from is now a football kit printers/sport kit outlet.
But the above link isn't badly priced though....
The other place that sells the VDO stuff is Croytec - http://www.croytec.co.uk - not cheap though.
Ian
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I think so, by coincidence I've just come off the phone to them.
Excellent.... cheers for that!!!!
Ian
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Somewhere on this forum (I think!!! ).... some one posted a link to a company in the Midlands that made amoung other things a non-dual mass TD5 flywheel, a flywheel for a Jaguar SC V8 and a rebuildable brake caliper.... anyone know what I'm going on about???
Ian
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I fitted the same kit last weekend...
Took the front cover off and found that the belt had been running on the front cover due to misalignment...
Even if technically your engine doesn't need the modification kit, it's actually cheaper to buy the kit than all the bits separately!! - Part number is STC4096L (and the cheapest place I found was http://www.lrdirect.com/customer/product.p...roductid=92525)
AFAIK, my belt was the original one from the factory... and some kind hearted person had left the front damper bolt loose (only need a smack to come undone) and most the front cover bolts weren't torqued up correctly. Which was nice (not)
I also took the radiator and intercooler out (much more room, and no chance of slipping and damaging the rad) when I did mine, and then flushed both the radiator and intercooler before they were re-fitted. Doing this also gives you much more room.
Just make sure you lock everything correctly... I've got one of the complete kits from www.difflock.com (including the locking bar), and though quite expensive initially, is worth it's weight in gold in my opinion and would fully recommend it!!! (kit also allows you to get the old crank sprocket off without any effort!!)
Ease wise, no more difficult than a 200Tdi... if anything it's easier and quicker.
Whilst you've got your coolant drained (and drive belt off), also worth checking your 'p-gasket'.... This is the metal 'p' shaped gasket that goes between the back of the water pump (casing) and the engine block. These have a habit of leaking on a 300Tdi... which often causes them to over heat!!!. (can't remember the part number off the top of my head)
To change this, all you need to do is remove the casting that the water pump bolts into... put in a new gasket and bolt it all back together.
Ian
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LR sell them as a standard part... avaliable through all dealers.
Are for the Ausi market, but they should be able to get you one over here.
Part number: RAA621 for the 90" and RAA607 for the 110" - not sure how much though, think they're about £100 ish - haven't checked yet.
And if need a lower tow ball... new Rangys are fitted with a receiver type hitch, and come with a nice drop plate - part number VUB000720 - but not cheap (Over £100) but comes with a storage bag... (which is over £40, but you can't buy the hitch without the bag AFAIK) - time to visit some salvage yards me thinks.
The northen tool one above, is the same as the RR one.
Ian
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From recent experience, not the easiet thing to sort out in IMHO!!!!
To get MSA cover, you need to be MSA registered, which takes a few weeks....
Ian
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Hrmmm.... very nice!!!
Do I get one as late freebe to go with the Handbrake I bought off you Donnington???
(could send a SAE if needed)
Ian
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Could not have put it better my self,
And as for the Santana chick! UGLY Give me Laura Daniel any day
Lara.
She was ok from a distance…
A distance of about 8 miles…
One thing to remember… beauty is only a light switch away!!!
Ian
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Bulldog sucking a wasp comes to mind.....
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Use a 90" pedal...
I've got one if you need it... might even still have the throttle cable (but not sure)
Ian
Slightly OT but Tech as well
in International Forum
Posted
We use Band-it's at work... with one of these on, the CV boot won't go anywhere.
Means you need a 'band-it' tool though, which aren't that cheap.
We use them for various pipework, although band-it's are what come as standard on some OE CV's.
http://www.band-it.co.uk/auto.htm
Ian