Porny
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Posts posted by Porny
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Td5 - did I hear right that there's a slightly better engine around 2002?
2002 did see some improvements... most of the changes were to meet EU legislation - but there were other improvements... mainly the use of metal dowels in the head (instead of plastic - although you can 'upgrade' some but not all earlier Td5s with plastic dowels) and a few other bits (including a slightly different head)
Intercooler / power upgrade - who's good J.J. Fearn / Allisport / JE Engineering. I don't want a huge increase if it's gonna compromise the engine, just a little more and mpg.Blatent spam... but I could do this for you
- can do a remap as per your requirements and should be cheaper than most!R380If you go for an R380 it saves any extra expense in getting custom bellhousings made... and it means everything is off the shelf. Am I correct in thinking you have a (long stick) LT95 at the moment?... if you used a Defender setup the gear lever would end up in roughly the right place... or even just use a Disco Td5 R380 and fit a later console.
GKN OverdriveDo make quite a difference... but £££ - other option is a Disco transfer box, but you may overgear yourself depending on what size tyres your using...
Ashcroft Shafts / CV's / FlangesARB Air Lockers front & rear
Can anyone speculate what I'll need to do with my prop shafts? Use the RR ones - presumably the Defender ones will be too long or too short.
Depends which gearbox you use. If you got Disco then depening on engine location the Disco front one should fit... and in theory so should the rear - same wheelbase - but can't remember if PCD or bolt numbers are different at the prop end.
And visa versa... if you run a Defender set up, the front one should be close... but rear will be a custom jobbie.
Is getting rid of the dual mass flywheel a good idea? I'm not gonna be doing any major offroading (the ARB's are a treat) so if it's better to keep it so be it.Yes and no.... a dual mass flywheel when it works is fine. And the later Td5's don't seem to suffer as per early Td5's. But then a Rakeway solid affair isn't cheap AFAIK and I'm not sure how much of an improvement you will see.
Ian
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HFH...
Just for you
http://www.hornblasters.com/video.php?pic=40
have a look round on http://www.hornblasters.com
Can see the newspapers know.... man in LR terrorises locals with his horn
Ian
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while I own a Landrover Defender 90, I also have a chevolet Blazer 4x4 4.3 V8, which is currently stranded because of the immobiliser not working. I appreciate this is a Landrover forum but if any members can suggest anything to help me get the blazer moving again it would be much appreciated T!A Moonraker
Is that a petrol or a diesel v8??
If it's a diesel, unless it's ECU controlled should be easy to get started
Probably not the best thing to go into details on a public forum... but then at the same time is old technology - so a theif isn't going to learn anything new!!
But in simple terms... a diesel needs fuel to run - and the fuel is usually controlled by an electric stop valve/solenoid
Ian
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Guy
What type of alarm is fitted? I could have a look in the morning if you want.?
Chris
If it's a Tdi just do the two lengths of wire under the bonnet trim lol...
Then just remove it all together... from the one's I've seen in the past, will be nothing complicated lol!! Even the LR one only takes a few mins to bypass.
Ian
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Thinking of making or having made a fiberglass replacement top to replace my hard top to save weight and make it better to remove. Does anyone have a mold or make something similar, like on the bowlers / tomcats?
Have a word will Julian at JR Fabrication - there work is spot on, and sure they could sort something out!!
At one point, I'm sure David at Llama 4x4 was also offereing similar too...
Ian
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I know there i a RRC running a Td5 in Iceland.
Also didn't someone make a NAS replica with a Td5 engine...
So it is possible.
Shackleton - have just realised I haven't replied to your pm
(will send you one shortly)Td5 conversion wise... it should be more than possible. I was helping someone in America do the same conversion - but into a 300Tdi Disco.
Basically... electrical wise just set the engine up as Defedender spec Td5 - so use a modified Defender dashboard loom (well bits of), a defender spec ECU (though this may not actually matter as you will probably run the RR coolant sensor so that the dashboard still works), a Defender (or a Disco 300Tdi) 10AS alarm unit and a Discovery Td5 throttle.
I could sort you all the connections you actually need to make the engine run, so you would just need to integrate it into the RR Dashboard/dashboard loom.
You can get away with running a 10AS subsitute box - but really for normal use (i.e. not in a racer) you may as well run the 10AS unit.... actually thinking about it in RR (which doesn't have a 10AS unit as standard as per a 300Tdi Disco) a little black box would make more sense
The actual engine can be either a Defender or a Disco spec one, as they are virtually identical. But you would need to run the Disco or Defeder spec R380 gearbox (or get rakeway - at vast expense no doubt - to make you a custom bellhousing).
Cooling wise, I think you would be better off with the Defender spec radiator and intercooler - as the Defender intercooler is slightly narrower.
TDV6....
The biggest problem with trying to use a TdV6 is the injectors. Nobody to my knowledge has developed an aftermarket ECU with correct drivers for Piezo electric injectors... and to run either a Disco or Jag ECU setup would be an absolute pain in the arse IMHO.
Ian
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Afternoon all, I'm after a new winch bumper, does anyone know if this one on Devon 4x4's website is compatible with a milemarker winch???? http://www.devon4x4.com/shop.php?mode=brow...6&subcat=53
Failing that anyone know of some other winch bumpers other than the ones on the alfred murray site suitable for MM winches.
Cheers
Matt
Although i've got an electric winch, my winch bumper came from Southdown - http://www.southdown4x4.com
Dave made it to my spec, and to suit the winch I've got. Sure he could do the same for your milemarker.
Well pleased with the quality... and quick delivery considering it was made to order.
Ian
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thanks for replys
I have brought a thatcham approved immob and will fit that to the "BOX" (what the discovery should have been called - especailly mine!)
Doesn't it need to be professionally fitted to gain Thatcham approval??
Either way, is no more effective than the standard LR alarm/immobilser on a 300 Tdi.... i.e. a length of wire under the bonnet (well two if you don't want to bump start it) and away you go.... regardess of what immobilser you've got acting on the ignition key.
Ian
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You can convert later axles to an earlier set-up...
Can't be hard, even Scorpion have copied designed a kit.
http://www.scorpionracing.co.uk/OFFROAD/ht.../inner/nuts.htm
Under 4x4, wheels and tyres, and then wheel nuts and bearing kit.
Ian
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Don't know what everyone else thinks....
But IMO these look smart - and better than reversed Disco Steels.
And
Taken from Rover Hybrids
Ian
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I trailer mine.
Mainly becase it has no heater or windows
wuss....
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The 110 runs two batteries, the main one which goes where it should and the Aux to run the work lights, spots etc. This is wired to a fuse and relay board in the back. In order to protect it all the incoming goes through a fuse before anywhere else now as soon as you are putting a fuse in it is blowing it. I had it up to 30 and the fuse was still just going bang. I have checked between the fuse and the Aux battery and there is nothing wrong with the wiring, could this be the battery on the way out.
Cheers
More likely to be a dead short after the fuse... i.e. where it runs to the spots, work lights etc etc.
You could substitue the fuse that keeps blowing for a headlamp bulb (two lengths of wire and a headlamp bulb - just make sure you use the correct pins on the bulb) if you put the bulb in instead of the fuse and it lights then you have a direct short. Leave the bulb in the circuit (and where you can see it) and move all the additional wiring looking for faults. As soon as you move some wiring and the bulb goes out, you have found where the fault is.
Ian
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Will post pics later when I get it fixed. Not found ny stockists that sell them. I've only seen them at the kitcar show at Westpoint nr Exeter. Not the cheapest tool I've purchased but good none the less.
Is it this one per chance:
Or this one (I have one of these - used to get them trade, but can't anymore except via special order)
The cheapest place I have found is here - www.toolbay.biz (reduced section for LR owners too)
or direct to the rivnut guns -
http://www.toolbay.biz/categories.asp?cate...amp;parentid=38
Ian
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Diesel Jim, thanks for the TDV6 tip, DirtyDiesel I may have you that VNT after all then
Lewis
Your missing one minor detail....
A TdV6 is a V6 - but only uses one turbo
(well in LR applications is does)It uses a link pipe to link A to B Bank (I think the turbo's on B bank) - but the pipe goes straight into an exhaust inlet on the turbo exhaust housing - thus the exhaust housing has an addtional inlet (not just from the manifold it is directly bolted to - if that makes sense??) - but you could always blank one of the exhaust inlets off.
What you really want to find it the turbo off a BMW Td6 powered RR - which is also the correct type of turbo
Ian
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Or just use a 1.5mm K Type thermocouple - slip it inside the pipe and do the jubilee clip up as normal. If you clamping a rubber or silicon pipe onto a solid tube (i.e. an intercooler outlet) it will still seal fine.
Then you just need a multimeter which can read K-Type thermocouples (green plug).
When you've finished easy to remove as no mods made....
This is the method we use at work (if not a permenent fixture) without a problem.
Ian
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Where is the ABS ECU located on a 1992 Classic Rangie??
I've been looking under the seat and under the drivers side of the dash and can't find anything that looks like the WABCO unit! My guess is it's under the passenger side of the dash, but thought i'd check before ripping it all out!!
Told you it was a silly question!!
TIA
Adrian
I thought it was under the passenger seat??.... (well is on late spec ones)
.....
From Picture:
1. Hydraulic booster unit.
2. Power unit - hydraulic pump.
3. Accumulator.
4. Electronic control unit (ECU), relays and fuses.
5. Rear sensors/exciter rings.
6. Front sensors/exciter rings.
- ABS operation is controlled by ECU located under left hand front seat, and earthed to centre tunnel.
Ian
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I have a 2.5 DSE 1997 Automatic. When pushing the pedal to the floor for full acceleration, the car goes immediately in safe mode. For the rest it drives perfectly normal, only when I reach the end of the pedal travel it becomes tacky for it goes in safe mode. I already changed the transmission ECU, but this didn't help. Did anyone encounter the same problem?
Safemode??
Unless I'm very much mistaken if it's going into save mode, it will also log a fault on the engine ECU?? Is is safe mode, or is the engine hitting overboost and cutting the fuel? (this would also log a fault I think)
Is the engine warning light (MIL) coming on??
BMW diesels do suffer from problems with the fuel quantity actuator, which can cause hesitation at the top end - but usually also cause the MIL to come on. Poor starting can also be related to this.
Ian
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I had a link somewhere (can't find it now!
) for a French company that made a neat bracket that fitted on top of a 90/110 bonnet.you had 2 replacement hinges, and this frame (kind of an A frame, with the point of the "A" being at the front of the bonnet in the middle, directly above the catch that locks into the top of the radiator bracket) and the two legs of the "A" welded to the hinges.
So the spare actually sits on this frame, as opposed to the bonnet itself, and doesn't rattle and bounce around and eventually crack your bonnet like the factory mount does.
was very neat.
This one:
Have a read here: http://www.difflock.com/magazine/4x4_Gear/...eel_mount.shtml or if you speak French http://www.rrconcept.com/catalogue_liste.p...chage_liste=29# - some other nice stuff on there too.
Ian
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Glad you got it back at last....
The joys of Land Rover dealers - at least it all got sorted out in the end!!
Ian
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Apart from the possible faults that have been mentioned....
I know it's at the LR Dealer....
But what part number is your ECU??
Is it a late spec 'NNN' type - which should be fitted if your engine is a 2004 spec.... or a 'MSB' type which would have been fitted when your 90 was built??
There are numerous differences between the two engines, and ECU's! (EU2 spec, and EU3) - which can cause problems.
Has the dealer checked the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor??
A common fault is that the CKP is too close to the flywheel or the drive plate... more noticeable when warm.
If this is the case, it does bring up some funny faults:
Normally....
• High-speed crank sync lost fault
But other faults that may be logged are:
• Noisy crank signal has been detected.
• Injector faults.
• Any injector faults may occur due to gaining and losing crankshaft synchronization.
The fix is the fitment of a shim.
A faulty EGR can also cause problems.... especially if it's stuck part open.
Another fault is a loose relays, and or a loose power feed to the main fuse box.
Some of the diagnosis does sound a bit random though...
If the LR dealer is a proper LR Franchise Garage then they should have started off follwing the questions and answer guide on GTR (Global Technical Resource) - which is a system that all proper LR dealers will have access to - which covers most of the probable causes for Td5 Misfire.... I wonder if they have??
Ian
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I was told by the Principle Engineer of Land Rover Powertrain that there was such an engine as the Cologne V6 Diesel
and that it was fitted to his Disco3, so if they cant even get it right then how can your mechanic be expected to know 
Sounds about right.....
Closer than they sometimes get, at least it was only the fuel type he got wrong.... Would have been funny at the fuel pump when he put diesel in!!
(the Cologne V6 in a LR3 is a petrol)... In saying that i doubt he did have the petrol V6, and just got confused with the TdV6 Diesel
Ian
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Just to confuse everyone more, Was the P38 2.5 Diesel in ANY way linked to either the VM, TD, 200 or 300tdi or was it a stand alone unit?
No.... was a BMW engine....
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Thought I'd let someone else have a go.
RAVE says
Fuel lift pump pressure 42 to 55 kgf/cm3 or 3 to 4 psi @1800 rpm, check your info again
Rave.... that's a bit outdated, my info came off GTR
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Never seen any detailed pressure info for any LR lift pump in RAVE or workshop manual.
What's going on... Western has failed
Taken from the LR Workshop manual
FUEL SYSTEM -
300 Tdi Fuel lift pump type Mechanical with hand primer
Fuel lift pump pressure 42 - 55 kpa at 1800 rpm
Fuel filter Paper element in disposable canister
In PSI it's between 6.53 and 7.977
Ian
- can do a remap as per your requirements and should be cheaper than most!
(will send you one shortly)
) for a French company that made a neat bracket that fitted on top of a 90/110 bonnet.
and that it was fitted to his Disco3, so if they cant even get it right then how can your mechanic be expected to know 
Roll Hoop needed, wheres the best place.
in International Forum
Posted
www.exactfabrication.co.uk
or pm Chris via the forum (northernchris)
Ian