Porny
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Posts posted by Porny
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....shaft so i can fit my loverrrly leather 4 spoke pre-defender wheel (or a Td5 county if i find one)
Are you still after a leather Td5 spec CSW/XS steering wheel??
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Ian,, any developments on upgrading the Puma engine yet ???
Well.... as you've asked
Hopefully going to have some new kit in the next couple of weeks
Ian
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guess it looks like a trip to land rover then. With abit luck it would end up costing a mint!
Or find a good independant specialist.
Generic fault readers are ok, but are limited in their capability. You really need someone with a proper LR specific Diagnostic kit.
Whereabouts are you?? (might be able to help
)Ian
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Also....
With regards to MPG - it simply comes down to your right foot.
If driven in the same way, at the same speeds etc etc your MPG will not change after the remap - some people claim massive improvemets - but personnally I usually just find it stays the same.
However, if you make use of the new found performance then MPG will suffer... to get more power out a diesel you put more fuel in. So, if you use the power, then you use more diesel... simple as
Ian
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Plug in boxes... some are better than others in the way they work, but all are simply a method of getting more fuel into the engine.... not always at the correct time.
They (usually) either modify the signal to the injectors, so that they stay open for longer, or fool the fuel pressure sensor into thinking that it is at a lower pressure than it actually is.... so it ramps the pressure up, supplying more fuel.
One of the failings with plug boxes is that they don't know what the engine is actually doing, or whether for example, it has any faults. Even if the engine is in limp home mode, the little box will still try shoving in more fuel. Also, you often find that they cause a lot of fault codes to be logged.... not detrimental, but annoying.
Personally I'd stay away.... but each to their own.
People used to use the excuse that you could run a plug in box and avoid any warranty issues... which is sort of true, but on a Td5 it is very easy to have two ECU's - so you keep your original one original, and modify the spare. When both coded to you injectors and 10AS it is simply a 5 minute job to swap between the two.
On a performance and driveability level - I have always found a proper remap to be far superior.
As for files...
Disco and Defender are different - if you tried to run a Disco fuel map on a Defender you will find (among other things) that your temperature gauge would work the wrong way round.
Also there are various different types of Td5 files - due to upgrades etc etc - so a Td5 is not just a Td5.
Exhaust wise (on a budget) the best set-up in my opinion is a early non CAT Td5 down pipe, and a centre silencer replacement pipe and a standard rear silencer - not overly loud, cheapish, and helps mid-range/reduces turbo lag.
Without being a plug, I offer Td5 remaps and can also supply full size intercoolers (to my own design) if wanted more than just a normal remap. I could also (if you let me know your injector codes) send you an ECU to try - would be without any security so would be plug in and play - no need to re-code to your alarm unit. Or I could come to you - I was in Greece this weekend remapping two Td5's - so Wiltshire isn't far lol
However (apart from a short trial) I would not recommend having a remap done via the post....
If your going to tune your engine, you want to make sure that everything is working correctly first - there are quite a few faults that Td5's are prone to (even on newer cars) that remapping might mask, but not resolve - and as such you still will not be making the full potential of the engine. (Hence I always carry out a full diagnostic check before remapping)
From reading your description, a normal stage 1 remap would probably suffice, even though lots of people will try and sell you a stage 2 map, big intercooler, a boost box, a new exhaust etc etc.....
Ian
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or if an earlier model it would be easier to change out pedal for later 3 track. You might need to change ECU, but if you intend to do things like fuel mapping etc you'll have to change either the ECU or PROM chip anyway.
Not as complicated as that... with suitable diagnostic kit, you simply tick 2 or 3 pot.... no need to change ECU's etc etc.
Ian
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every 90 from 300TDi(94) onwards should have vented fronts fitted, 110's got them earlier (perhaps 200tdi?) i think around 1989
If your TD5 has solid fronts i'd be wondering why as they should have vented disks!
No they don't
....'94 onwards 90's were fitted with the larger callipers (as per 110) but did not have vented disks...
My standard '97 90 is non-vented.
My 2002/3 spec TD5 doesn't have vented either - and hadn't done many miles before the previous owner wrapped it round a tree... again not modified.
A quick search on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Land-Rover-Landrover...1QQcmdZViewItem
Again not vented (off a 90)
Ian
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All TD5's had vented front discs...
No they don't
Ian
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I'd try: http://www.safari-equip.co.uk/index.php
AFAIK they supply a lot of stuff to Scorpion.... but are much better priced and actually understand the term 'good customer service'
I've had quite a few things off them in the past, and can't fault them.
Ian
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Where's the best place to get a crimping tool to use with AMP Superseal plugs...
I'm mainly using the 1.5mm ones, but a tool that also did the 2.8mm pins would be good.
Cheers
Ian
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Looks like either one of two things...
Leaking injector/injector fault.. or a coolant leak.
You can get a similar fault when coolant is allowed to drip into a cylinder, but more likely to be a injector problem.
I'd get the injectors checked!!!
Ian
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Hey Ian! I take it the axles im buying off you then have 4-bolt flanges then!!!!
Phil
Yep
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Did LR use 3 bolt flanges on props?
Only on 300Tdi Discos... they have a rubber doughnut assembley that's supposed to reduce driveline noise/shunts..
Personnally I wouldn't bother with it... stick to the normal 4 bolt flange assembley.... plus to run a 3 bolt on a Defender you'd need a custom rear prop shaft.
Ian
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Thats great info Ian, cheers for that!
just a couple of questions though....
Do you mean to swap the whole bulkhead loom over, or can the Td5 separate pieces (i'm assuming the engine and dash ones) be grafted onto the "old" (in my case, 300Tdi) loom?
i suppose the complete loom would make things a helluva lot easier.
Do you know of any source of a comlete bulkhead loom for a defender? i suspect that "new" from LR would cost an arm and several legs.
I'd go for the full alarm system i think, just for the ease and decent security it offers.
to convert a side tank, is it a case of cutting the top to make a Td5 pump fit in? as its going into a 110 i think i'd fit the standard rear tank and (using a fuel pump) the side tank can "fill" the rear tank.
thanks again!
I'd swap the whole bulkhead loom over... by the time you've messed around trying to get stuff to work, you might as well just swap the loom (quicker!!)
If you get an early Td5 dash loom, things like the indicator controls, wiper motor, hazard switch etc etc will all just plug and play. The only thing you ideally need to run is the Td5 clock set - has a different water temp, fuel gauge, speedo etc etc ( which I think you've already fitted) - the main difference is the warning panel. Although if you wanted you could alter a Tdi one, and then fit an addtional MIL light, but I'd just go down the plug and play route.... and fit the Td5 bits.
I can get Defender looms... depends if you want an early or late dashboard type - and what extras you want i.e. heated screen, electric windows etc etc. If you just want a base model loom - they are quite easy to get hold of.. usually around the £100 mark (but depends on spec).
New from LR they are about £500 - £1500!!
Things like the 10AS unit just plug in then....
Yep, to convert a side tank you just need to weld on an adaptor ring (or some people do a clamp type setup) so you can fit the Td5 pump/sender complete... or I can sort you out a nice Aluminium tank all ready to go (as I'm sure Allisport could).
Ian
P.s. cheers for the little parcel!!
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Sooo.... with say, a 3.9 EFI V8, you get the engine and a whole length of loom (with the ECU & relays) that usually lives under the RH seat.
stick 12v,earth,fuel pump on it and away it goes.
how easy is a Td5? (to be fitted in a defender)
I'll need the fuel cooler/filter/pump and pipes.
can the engine loom be easily "removed" from the rest of the vehicle (like the V8) or it is all wired in and part of the whole car?
to the folk out there that have retro fitted Td5's onto older vehicles... how did you sort the ECU wiring?
cheers!
Easy....
Loom wise:
If going into a Defender I'd just run the standrad harness - the loom seperates in 5 pieces as per earlier looms - engine, chassis, wings, dashbord.
Apart from the clocks (only thing different) you can just fit a complete Dashboard loom into an older Defender without too much fuss (depending on age). Could even upgrade to the later type dash board at the same time.
Engine harness... just swap it into the new vehicle with the engine.
ECU wise... can either be mounted under the drivers seat (if a 110 - or under the passenger seat if a 90) as per a Td5, or the loom is long enough that the ECU can be mounted on the bulkhead between the driver and passenger seats.
Alarm ECU wise - either run the standard 10AS unit, or there are a couple of ways you can get rid of it
Only other thing you 'need' to change is the throttle pedal. You could if you wanted fit the later type clutch and brake pedals too... ECU looks for them, but will happily drive without.
Fuel system -
Either run a standard set up.
Or you can modify a standard 90 side mounted fuel tank to run a Td5 Pump - if your modifying a 110" I'd just fit a standard td5 tank.
A lot of people do away with the standard fuel filter setup when doing conversions - but I wouldn't!!
EUI injectors are very fussy when it comes to clean diesel, and the standard Td5 filter does a double pass to ensure the fuel is filtered to very high level.
Ian
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If it was the blue Hardtop Q reg 90 that was on EBay....
Then it has a Td5 rear crossmember, so stands a good chance of being a Td5 chassis.
I would check for welding around the drives chassis leg - where the engine number should be... to see if its had a new front section to hide any old chassis numbers (or had an old VIN number welded up)
Ian
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Hi,
I picked up on this from another members question but didn't want to hijack his thread..
Oil in the wiring loom is mentioned, I have a 1998 110 TD5 with as yet no history, how would I tell if it has suffered from this problem, where to look etc...?
cheers
db
Have a read here: http://web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb/oilharness
Not all Td5's suffer from this, and as long as it's picked up shouldn't cause any problems.
Have a look at the red plug on the ECU (unplug it from the ECU with the ignition off)... if it's suffering from oil in the injector loom the red engine harness plug will have oil in it
If it has got oil in it... usually fitting a later (improved seal) injector harness should solve the problem... it is only in the worse case that you will need a new main engine harness.
Ian
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I run proper steel hubcentric ones (not the plain jobbie) which use standard size steel wheel nuts... and have never had any problems at all.
Mine came from Kenson 4x4
Personnally I wouldn't run alluminium ones (most of them use smaller wheel nuts for one), or plain fronted ones if using alloy wheels. All LR alloys also use the hub centre for location.
Ian
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Rather than post on the end of another thread....
Who makes the best parabolic springs??
They are to go onto a Series 3 SWB (SW)....
Have used Rocky Mountain in the past - I found them fine, other than being a bit bouncy when the LR was empty... but lately have heard a couple of bad reports...
Have heard good and bad about CPC....
British Spring Company - have never heard from anyone who has used them
Britpart - if there like their other products then probably not good!!
Any other options??
Then there is the question of what dampers to use...
Ian
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OK cool, I do have to get a decent charge/battery into it to rule that out but it's not that it just won't start, it starts long enough to settle into an idle and then cuts out. Very uniformly and after about 4 seconds?
It has a "Sigma" branded alarm / immobiliser which shows an LED on the dash, the car will start provided the LED is lit. I'm assuming that it wouldn't catch at all if the immobiliser was active.
I'm also thinking that maybe it got a jolt while bouncing around on the trailer and maybe the cut off switch has activated although I didn't notice it when looking around the engine bay, can they be removed from the loom?
Just realised I haven't replied to your email.....
If you let me know the full number off the ECU (MSB*****) I can tell you if it thinks it's a Defender or a Disco.
If it's cutting out after a few seconds it might be the standard immobilser that's killing it.
Have you had a proper look around yet?? - I'd imagine that 'somewhere' there is a 10AS unit (a green box about 5"x3" with two multi plugs) rather than using the Disco BCU. However, if you wanted it is possible to get rid of the 10AS unit (or the BCU) completely
Odd that someone would bother fitting an addtional immobiliser when there should be one fitted (but maybe not activated) anyway.
There should be a fuel cut off switch in the engine bay - usually on the bulkhead.
Even it's a MSB ECU it's still remappable... the only difference is that its not reflashable
Ian
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Unfortunately no, I called them today, none in stock for the past 6 months
Although more expensive, Allisport do a very nice HD aluminium radiator for a Series... more efficient than standard, and more bling B)
Ian
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STC4096L = £98.35 + vat from my local Land Rover Dealer (need to order it in though - 2 days)... has gone up a bit in price then, as the last one I bought was only £60 or there abouts.
Ian
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Get a quote from a Land Rover Dealer before you order the bits... I seem to remember that the STC4096L (I think) was a lot cheaper direct from Land Rover than any of the other suppliers!!
I was quite suprised when I found out..
Ian
Chips
in International Forum
Posted
Interesting....
Excess smoke is just overfuelling... so just wasted fuel... and usually (so I'm lead to believe) if you try and chuck that much fuel through a Trans'fender it just goes into limp home mode. But must be ok in your case.
I'm intrigued by the power figures - have you got rolling road print outs?? One thing that interests me is that they make max torque at 1750rpm... but max torque in a standard Defender is at 2000rpm.
And I may be mistaken, but I thought the boost pressure was already 1.3bar max??
Do I you mind if I ask who did the remap?? Just interested....
Ian