Andicog

Moving along a little, bracket roughed out from 5mm alloy.

Is it a steering wobble? If it's low at the back the Castor angle on the front axle will be changed slightly, could maybe give you a wobble but would think it would need to be very low at the back and nose high ?

I wish I'd found this thread a while back, lifted my 110 using old man emu springs, +40 mm lift, had a really bad rattle on neutral throttle, bought wide angle props, smoother but still there, bought kinked trailing arms, no difference. The only thing that got rid of the noise was putting a bit of weight on the back. Spoke to a few people who are supposedly in the know, one said lift the diff nose up and the other, who actually makes adjustable trailing arms said the diff nose angle does not change with suspension movement at all, even though I asked about the arms being a different length to the A frame he insisted that the angle won't change. . . . Then I see this thread . . . Bloody spot on! I managed to find a pair of genuine land rover chassis to bush spacers, now all seems quiet and much smoother. A 10mm spacer moved the nose down 12 mm ish and now the prop u/j angle at both ends looks much better. Thanks again guys. See photos.

That's great, thanks again, nice neat installation you have there. 👍

Thanks, really helps, been toying with this idea for ages but so many supposedly knowledgeable people said it can't be done. Appreciate your help, did you run 2.5" round the back of engine with reducer on air box or 3" with reducer on turbo?

I always err on the side of caution! What would you recommend and shall I cancel the heavy duty drivers side spring I ordered? I do have some 4mm alloy but wasn't sure about the vibration. 😂

Overkill?

I've already got the Masai 300tdi metal snorkel that clears the roll cage (after buying a normal metal 300tdi snorkel because I was told I could trim the inlet tube down to clear the cage . . Wrong!) I also bought the 300tdi inner plastic air box/duct but they're pretty flimsy hence my all metal inner part idea! To do the wing top would mean removing and trimming the MOD installed checker plate as it covers the drivers side wing top vent. Having said that you've now got me thinking . . . 👍

Thanks guys, really appreciate your help, I've already bought the air box straps and rubber bobbins just need to make a bracket to fit onto the air con pump mounts, was thinking 5mm steel plate. I'll then fit the snorkel, have found a 3" car exhaust stub with a flange so will mount that onto a plate that mirrors the shape of the snorkel and bolt them together through the wing panel, then it's 3" flexible pipe from snorkel to air box and get a reducer and some alloy and silicone tubing to run to the turbo.

Hi, Wondered if anyone knew the air inlet o/d on a standard 300tdi turbo? I have a 110 Tithonus fitted with a 300tdi with lt77 and want to fit the proper 300 air filter housing and locate it on the air con pump mounts so I can run to a snorkel on the drivers side wing. I'm told that the original Defender air pipe from the turbo won't fit as my engine is further back than the factory position due to the lt77. It does look like there's enough room to get a 2.5" or 3" alloy/silicone hose around the back of the engine but I wondered if anyone has done it? I'll try and post some pics of the space I have between engine and bulkhead. Any help appreciated.

Are you sure it's condensation? I've had my Tithonus for over a year and used it just about every day and have not had this problem, my original roof did have pinholes over the front cage velcro mounting and this caused drips but since fitting a new Wolf/tithonus hood I've had no problems.