14Platoon
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Posts posted by 14Platoon
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36 minutes ago, Cchase said:
14Platoon,
Is there any provision in the bottom of your air filter housing to let out any water that gets sucked in by the snorkel?
I have sealed off the bottom of my housing, but think that I need some sort of a one way valve to let any water out of the system so it doesn't make its way to the engine.
Cheers,
Colin
No water is to get in there at all. The air filter and snorkel bits all get sealed watertight so the only opening is at the very top of the snorkel. Any water elsewhere would damage the engine as it can get sucked in.
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4 hours ago, neil110 said:
Had a look at both of them, sadly no information about snorkels. Lots of stuff about arctic heaters, snow blinds, interior insulation and stuff like that though
Thanks for looking anyway 👍🏻
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18 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Breather pipe intakes? From the axles and timing chest.
Think you’re right with the axle breathers.
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1 hour ago, neil110 said:
I have a couple of military parts catalogues, I'll have a look in them, see if I can spot anything
Thanks mate
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I thought the axle breathers just got fastened to the top of the snorkel 🤷🏻♂️
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1992 ex mod Defender
2.5 n/a DieseL
Finally got around to connecting my snorkel up. Can anyone identify what these two lugs with threads are and what they’re for?
Thanks
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On 1/25/2019 at 11:29 AM, ianmayco68 said:
Cheers 14Platoon , mines the same thickness as simonb’s so not much point ordering another, so think I’ll do what you did and use a silicon sealer .
Tiger seal was very good but work quick and have some baby wipes handy! You can paint over Tiger seal too.
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Fitted mine (Didn’t fit that snug), Tiger sealed over the top.
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I lied, they’re £11.something each but I’m sure there are lots the same on Amazon.
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2 hours ago, Jocklandjohn said:
Wee tip - smear some clear silicone around the glass/metal joint. Mine's have leaked and partly filled with water (on front) but wouldn't hurt to do them anyway even though on back.
Good tip, can’t harm it.
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1 hour ago, Koen110 said:
Link?
I’ll fish it out in a bit, just popping out. It’s Amazon, £10 something each. 48w
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They’re cheap (£10 each) and very bright.
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With regards to the original post, I used the Land Rover seals and then sealed over with Tiger seal, the genuine seals left gaps.
I did the same with the window panel seal too.
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3 hours ago, Puffernutter said:
Yes I did, the 12v fused went to the relay (located at the back of the car) in heavy cable (no LED variants when I did it and they (I had 2) were 60W each I think?)
Cheers
Peter
Great, thank you Peter.
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1 hour ago, Puffernutter said:
I don't know about the ex MOD versions, but with my 110 I ran new wires on the chassis (one fused 12v from the battery and a switched 12v from the switch I had in the cab), it was a lot easier!
Cheers
Peter
Does your wiring have a relay etc? I don’t mind going straight from the battery but can I do that with both the switch and the relay?
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Hello
I will be fitting two worklights at the rear of my ex MOD 1992 Defender.
I need to find 2 wires, one to power the work light switch and one to power the relay.
Any ideas which are the best two wires to use? A colour of the wires and locations would be perfect too.
Cheers
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Merry Christmas
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Somehow I manage to fit the centre seat with no extra brackets. It’s squeezed tight in between the other two seats and sits on top of both existing rails or rather the edges of the existing sliders. It’s purely for aesthetics but I’ve tested it and it’s prettysolid as well......I’m happy with it now.
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Somehow I manage to fit the centre seat with no extra brackets. It’s squeezed tight in between the other two seats and sits on top of both existing rails or rather the edges of the existing sliders. It’s purely for aesthetics but I’ve tested it and it’s pretty solid as well......I’m happy with it now.
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On 12/19/2018 at 12:35 PM, Snagger said:
Having even a small child occupy the centre seat is a real nuisance when driving, so unless you really love the aesthetic, it'd be best to leave it out and fit a small cubby or the plastic tray from the commercial vehicles to tidy things up. But having the empty space makes climbing to and from the rear much easier than if you fit a seat or cubby.
If you have the bracket I suspect, a double top hat section with two seat back pivot brackets, then you could just run a thin blade down the middle to split it in two for the centre seat and leave the existing adjustable bases as they are
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2 hours ago, Snagger said:
The centre seat should sit down straight onto the top hat sections. The seat back is fitted the same way as your existing backs. There really is very little to the non-adjustable early seating.
The MoD left the centre seat out specifically to make clambering into the back easier. It does give you somewhere to dump a medium sized pack or bag, too. Swings and roundabouts, but having originally had a centre seat and replaced it with a cubby, I'd not go back.
Doesn't the cubby box fit nice and neat or isn't it.....gappy around the edges🤔
Snorkel bits
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thank you