14Platoon
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Posts posted by 14Platoon
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On 10/7/2018 at 4:11 PM, Snagger said:
I'm glad to see you go to the effort of keeping the vents. Their deletion is one of my peeves on the TDCIs - I think they're an iconic part of the vehicle.
When you put it all back together, the seal choices are an important factor. Many say the later foam type seal that is stuck to the back of the flap is better than the rubber type that is bonded to the bulkhead. I don't know from experience, but I can tell you that pattern rubber seals are too thick and too hard but Gen Parts seals work very well. It is also said that the later type are better at letting the water drain and dry out than the rubber type, and that future corrosion is thus reduced. It shouldn't be an issue if you carefully apply a decent primer like Buzzweld RCP and then a good coat of paint, ensuring good coverage (particularly on the lip edges, where paint naturally retreats as it dries).
Hmm I’ll have a think about the seals. Pretty sure it had the foam type on it originally.
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On 10/7/2018 at 10:01 AM, paime said:
Coming along nicely! Out of interest, what are you using to treat any surface rust you're finding that isn't getting chopped out and replaced?
It’s my local classic car garage doing the job, I’m hoping they’re treating it!
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Work in progress
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I have an ex MOD 1992 Defender.
I called Craddock spares and they supplied everything. I got my local garage to fit it (really cheap). As for originality, this was actually an option back in the day so it's still original. FYI it's sooooooo much better with power steering.
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Just for info
windcsreen panel out by undoing front portion roof bolts and seat belt bracket bolts. Cut seal with Stanley knife, raised roof slightly by pushing up with my legs by the windscreen. When roof raised a couple of inches, push forward on window. I’m lucky as my window has folding hinges. Fold forward then undo hinges and windscreen panel out.
Wings off is just by undoing series of bolts on the inner wing, inner radiator and vertical series of bolts to bulkhead, only revealed when plastic wheel arches are removed.
All now stripped and ready for the body shop, fingers crossed they keep everything aligned😳
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50 minutes ago, Dan D90 said:
So it seems my windscreen to bulkhead seal is leaking! The truck is parked uphill at an angle so it is hard to tell where the water is coming in as it is running a long a channel and out top of the bulkhead on the passenger’s side.
Its odd because the seal looks to be in good shape, is it worth the effort to replace it or is there a good change a new seal will leak also, ie a bad design?
Should I just try to seal it from the front with black silicon?
Thanks Dan
I’d probably us the vehicle body sealer that car body shops use.
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23 minutes ago, western said:
Nope, as a FFR variant it was probably attached to the inside of bonnet hinge.
There’s one on the other bonnet hinge too.
The motor in the heater box is quite loose. Now it’s all out I can have a good check around. Not seen any obvious breaks in the wire though.
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Decided to take the wings off and make sure the vent repair is completed fully. Glad I did as this has revealed more rust (shocker). Ps taking the heater blower out was a nightmare due to two bolts hidden and nigh on impossible to get to.
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I took my heater blower off today (in prep from r garage vent repair). Behind the blower is the large metallic earth strap which was disconnected due to wear and tear. Does this earth strap have a purpose with regards to the heater 🤔
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1 hour ago, western said:
loom runs from instrument pack long the bottom forward edge of dash below the black tray, then down centre to fuse box.
Nice one
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On 9/18/2018 at 9:02 AM, Scotts90 said:
Not hard but time consuming...unless you have the hands of a child removing the whole wing assembly is easiest
Its better to work from the front back, so you’ll need to remove the grill (screws) to access the bolts that are through the grill frame. Remove frame.
Depending on spec you’ll have a power steering reservoir and radiator expansion tank on one side, the washer bottle and horn on the other...unbolt these.
The wiring looms for the lights are clipped along the inner wing, you can either unplug at the bulkhead or at the lights. Either way it’ll need disconnecting.
Remove the wheel arches, just push the small pin through the plastic rivets to release, again from inside the wheel arch there are two large self tappers that go through to the bulkhead bracket, another bolt into the chassis bracket and towards the front another bolt just above the chassis leg. These all secure the inner wing. Underneath the vehicle there should be a wing stay going from the bulkhead floor to the lower edge of the wing, also back in the engine bay at the top some models have brackets holding the top wing section...unbolt
Looking through the gap where the plastic arch was towards the bulkhead you’ll see the 4 bolts that hold the wing to the bulkhead, some have bolts, some have large self tappers...it varies. The wing actually has slots that angle downward to save removing these completely but it’s sometimes just as easy to remove them. Also if you have an aerial fitted you’ll have to disconnect.
I think that’s them all...the whole assembly now needs lifted up and over the spring turret. Bit awkward but not too heavy.
This was from memory but I think it covers most of it lol.
You can remove the outer and top skin and leave the inner wing in situ but the bolts that hold the lot together require the manual dexterity of a contortionist and the patience of a saint blessed with small hands!
Just seen this. That’s great info and I’ll be starting tomorrow 😳
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This is great stuff guys the job seems fairly simple in my head now, thanks to all the info you’ve all provided.
From your info, I’m happy it’s not the resistor as there are no speed issues, there is just no power.
If I check the wires tomorrow and can’t find anything then tha5 just leaves me to check the motor.....hopefully you can help me with the Hotwire test 🤗
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2 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Land Rover are great for learning stuff on, but I've seen many go up in flames due to diy wiring errors as the loom is tightly bunched with unfused high current cables.
You shouldn't need to make a new wire to feed the heater motor, you just need to find the break in the circuit - there isn't much to the loom, and it's only an arms span from switch to heater so not difficult to trace.
Making a little pencil diagram of the circuit including the switch, fuse terminals, motor will help you measure between each point and the next methodically and understand it better.
Before you go too far though, identify the fuse for the heater and check both sides of the fuse are getting 12v, and also check the actual wire terminals on the back of the fuseboard are getting power- very common to get light surface corrosion on the terminals, especially the older glass type fuses, which needs to be cleaned up thoroughly to make the contact good.
Make sure your volunteer is set to DC in the 0-20v range, and bare in mind that even if a terminal shows 12v, a corroded terminal or threadbare wire hanging on by the last strand may not deliver enough amps to power a bulb or motor.
I’ll check again on the fuse board side if things now I know I’m definitely looking at the right wire.
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Due to it being military most of the wires are pretty simple to get to. I have gained access behind the clocks and can see the fuses and where the loom goes into the fuse board.
Is the length of the loom behind the dash between clocks and the blower easy to get to? It’s this part of the loom I can’t see at the moment.
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1 hour ago, western said:
added the wire colours for each function to my previous photo of the left heater blower control slider.
if you do want the alternative resistor just let me know by PM.
Thank you
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Perfect thank you
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2 hours ago, Eightpot said:
Land Rover are great for learning stuff on, but I've seen many go up in flames due to diy wiring errors as the loom is tightly bunched with unfused high current cables.
You shouldn't need to make a new wire to feed the heater motor, you just need to find the break in the circuit - there isn't much to the loom, and it's only an arms span from switch to heater so not difficult to trace.
Making a little pencil diagram of the circuit including the switch, fuse terminals, motor will help you measure between each point and the next methodically and understand it better.
Before you go too far though, identify the fuse for the heater and check both sides of the fuse are getting 12v, and also check the actual wire terminals on the back of the fuseboard are getting power- very common to get light surface corrosion on the terminals, especially the older glass type fuses, which needs to be cleaned up thoroughly to make the contact good.
Make sure your volunteer is set to DC in the 0-20v range, and bare in mind that even if a terminal shows 12v, a corroded terminal or threadbare wire hanging on by the last strand may not deliver enough amps to power a bulb or motor.
Only a temporary wire to test if the motor is blown or not
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5 minutes ago, western said:
Ref the resistor I mentioned last sunday, I'm back home now, so will remove it & associated wiring & dig out the fitting info.
From the above comments, it doesn’t appear to be the resistor unless I’ve confused myself?
Wiring diagram would be great and much appreciated
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Any ideas how to do a Hotwire test to the motor?
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4 hours ago, Red90 said:
To run a new wire, you need to know what you are doing and, I think, at this point, you would need someone there that understands electrical.
I made a loom for a VW Beetle before, that was pretty simple as I just found where the wires started and ended. If I know where this one starts and ends I can just replace it I think.
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20 minutes ago, Red90 said:
The fuse is fine, but you are not getting power to the fuse block. So your problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. You sort of have two options.
1) Pull the fuse panel and start following the wire to locate the fault.
2) Run a new power wire.
Running a new wire sounds like a good option although being military there’s not too much stuff in the way.
Where would I run a power wire to and from 🤔
Thanks
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1 hour ago, Red90 said:
Was there power at the blower fuse?
Number 4 fuse showed zero on a 7.5 fuse on normal test so I changed to diode. On putting the red and black on either end of the fuse in situ, the multimeter beeped. I’m guessing that meant it was intact?
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Fuse check complete.
Ignition on, some fuses showed a reading and some showed zero. With the ones showing zero I guessed wired negative, switched to diode and got a beep on each as I tested.
N the others that showed zero and only had one test hole on the fuse, I swapped these with kn Wn good fuses and no change.
I changed the blower fuse as shown on the fuse layout and no change?
im starting to give up now
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I'll get on it tomorrow as it's now dark and I'll give an update.
Many thanks
Heater........V irritating
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
With the heater off the Defender, if I attach one wire to a car battery negative and one to the power, will I blow myself up or will this test the blower motor?