roamingyak
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Posts posted by roamingyak
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15 hours ago, MR-HIPPO said:
I am now as confused as you are.
Only happens when Iâm driving at speed, put into neutral with foot off clutch to coast up to some traffic lights, then the oil pressure light will flicker repeatedly at high velocity.Â
Does not happen when stopped in neutral.Â
Fairly sure this oil pressure light hasnât been working for a while, so by fixing the electrics I now have the pleasure of seeing the light working
Going to replace the new oil pressure sensor today and then test the oil pressure with a machine rather relying on than the Landy electrics. Fingers crossed
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6 minutes ago, MR-HIPPO said:
As above, a pressure gauge would show what is actually happening.
To me, the fact that the oil light is only coming on while the engine is idling, after it has warmed up, does not bode well.
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To confirm, itâs not at idle as in stationary, the vehicle is moving.
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7 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
Had the old oil pressure sensor failed? What was the reason for changing it?
The light wasnât working, changing all of the loom wiring, so changed the oil pressure sensor as well. Clean slate.
Iâve ordered a new one again, maybe the fitted new one is faulty, fingers crossed.... to confirm, it just flickers, doesnât stay on constantly....
Then will increase idle speed a touch to see what happens, plus make auto electrician double check everything. Then double check hoses, manifold gasket etc for leaks...
Other than that it could be the oil pump or serious engine components? Need to find a Landy specialist then I think...
Does that sound logical?
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
I would be getting an oil pressure gauge...
As in one permanently fitted or a temporary one to solve this problem?
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No, just the engine temperature. And it has an additional wire that taps into the oil pressure light wire, so you get an alarm from the engine watchdog as well as the normal dash light telling you there is low oil pressure.
Edit: I changed the engine oil and filters this morning, Castroâs Vectron 15-40 oil, genuine filters, no leaks after 50km. So same problem before and after oil change...
Edit 2: This may have been happening before, only two weeks ago we changed the oil pressure sender sensor below the oil filter and hadnât driven it since. So may or may not be related to new loom and sensor install. From reading other posts it may be a leak in one of the gaskets around the turbo/exhaust area, did see a puff of smoke there a few weeks back....
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Ok, one annoying gremlin đ©
The engine oil light keeps coming on whilst driving. This tends to be after at last 10 minutes of driving from cold. My last test drive it repeatedly (7-8 times) came on when coasting in neutral - for example accelerating in forth gear, coming up to some lights, slip it into neutral, oil pressure light flickers on rapidly. When I accelerate again it goes off again.
The oil pressure sender unit (the thing under the oil filter) has been replaced with part number PRC6387G as well as the wiring on the new loom.
The wire from the Engine Watchdog unit was also plugged into the wire going from the sender to the dash light, but we disconnected this (we put a diode onto it at first, then disconnected it)
Any ideas please? We are pulling our hair out...
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Ok thanks, will investigate tomorrow.
Us Southern Hemisphere people are a kind and generous bunch, they are trying to talk me into staying longer and doing some more work on the old girl
 I have a big area out the back out of the way and they are a nice group of people. Having a strange Landy Kiwi to chat with breaks up the working day it seems and the auto electrician has enjoyed the challenge - we installed an entire dual battery system (ctek) with solar panels, sound system and various things before attempting the Landy looms.
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Ok, first motorway test run for an hour.... nothing too serious to fix.... đ
Coolant system needs bleeding, installed this system which beeps and flashes whenever air touches its sensor... so I know thatâs working which is great
Also the Engine Watchdog system alarm told me I had half a litre too little oil in the engine by going off until filled it to neutral or just over, so again that seems to work well...
However the heater wonât come on, believe I should have this running to bleed the coolant of air bubbles? The three wires seem correctly connected from the dash switch to the 3 wires on the side of the heater matrix, fuse seems ok, assume itâs the fuse with rectangle and 3 squiggly lines indicating hot idea? Waiting on the auto electrician to trace them electronically...
Are we missing anything heater wise?Â
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5 minutes ago, MR-HIPPO said:
May not be a bad idea, if there is a 200TDI wiring diagram out there somewhere I would certainly like to get my hands on a copy.
Â
I hope you get this fully sorted and properly up and running soon.
The Haynes manual I have is fairly accurate (but needs to be in colour...) drop me a PM etc
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Thanks guys, hugely appreciated đ
Shall we create a project (new thread) to document the 200TDI looms? When complaining to Autosparks I can ask them to provide what info they have on making the loom, whack it into excel if they provide it, document it together online.....?
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!!!Awesome!!! đ
ill print it out, if anybody has itâs part number Iâll order a fancy sticker....
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Ok, hopefully one of the last requests! đ
Below is my new fuse bank, populated at a best guess on fuse size. Can anybody recommend a picture and part number that we should be using for this new 1994-1996 200TDI loom please?
Â
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Thanks heaps again, my auto electrician followed that and itâs working with the ignition, canât turn the engine on at the moment, but confident it will work.
Yeah, annoyed at Autosparks, effectively wasted the second to last day I had with the auto electrician trying to figure it all out....
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Updateï»ż: The dash light wires for the battery light are not connected in the new loom. They just run in a loop to a blank end with the diode in there and back, no other connectionsï»ż. Should I be hopping mad at Autosparks or are we missing something here?
So I assume we connect these two blanked off wires on the dash light to the two wires on the resistor and Bobâs your uncle? (All brown/yellow wires)
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Thanks guys, simply awesome and helpful answers, thank you so much.
The wire from the resistor to the dash light connection is not working, advice above taken into consideration. We are checking the wire now, untaping it, Â if it seems ok we will change the resistor as fear it is not connected in there... (sigh...)
Update: The dash light wires for the battery light are not connected in the new loom. They just run in a loop to a blank end with the diode in there and back, no other connections. Should I be hopping mad at Autosparks or are we missing something here?
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On 6/21/2019 at 10:29 AM, western said:
Red oil, red charge, Amber glow plug, and red brake check when key is twisted to start position
Confirming the Red oil light should always come on at ignition/startup?
It never did before, but if I changed oil it popped on until it figured out there was oil in there for a few seconds....
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2 hours ago, western said:
the brown/yelow has to connect to the charge light [in your case its the Choke symbol] as it was on my original warning light panel.
What do you mean by âcharge lightâ please?
Assume you mean a light bulb connection in the dash, ideally lighting up the choke light? Therefore Brown/Yellow is for glow plugs?
(sorry, on a very slow connection and a tiny screen with filthy hands when I type these messages, thanks for your patience!)
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Thanks, some of the dash lights work etc like Difflock. Will be more methodical tomorrow and list then out.
What is the Brown/Yellow wire though please, itâs not used in the Haynes diagram etc
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Starts like a dream.
Daft question, which one is the choke light?
Wires should be connected, but arenât it seems, so wondered if it routes elsewhere first....
(Appreciate any thoughts on the glow plug timing question too please....)
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Thanks again, will try to sort out the dashlights tomorrow.
A. My only issue there so far is having a Brown/Yellow wire that is in the small alternator loom, plugs into the main loom, but then doesn't seem to connect through to the Brown/Yellow wire on the dash lights connector -  when the auto electrician tests each end they are not connected. Faulty wire/connection or does it pass through something that we donât have a relay in etc etc? Any suggestions appreciated!
B.Also, not had the glow plug relay before. Iâve wired my amp and sub to only work when I switch the ignition on, to avoid accidental flattening of the battery etc. But by having the ignition turned on Iâm not running the glow plugs or something daft like this?
C. Assume I should change my dash panel to a 200 TDS one as then Iâll have a glow plug light etc on it?
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Thanks, lack of choice is sometimes a good thing đ
What dash-lights should come on when you turn the ignition on, then the engine? Currently no lights come on, the bulbs are good and work when the auto electrician tests the circuit, but not when we do it in anger.... our morning puzzle to solve đ
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Thanks, German run place, extremely professional etc Better than any UK based work Iâve had done around electrical safety for bad roads etc, but appreciate the note, I know what you mean đ
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Thanks everybody, she started up today and nothing went bang, pop, fizz, whizz or kaboom!!!! đ
Will take her for a spin tomorrow for more checks....
Id like to repeat what I had previously and have a secret kill switch that doesnât let the engine start when itâs off. Any suggestions for the best wire to interrupt for this please? Previously it was the wire on top of the fuel injection pump stop solenoid, starter motor would turn over but not start etc
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Thanks guys. đ
I'm a bit nervous about taking the existing sensors out, stripping the thread etc?
anybody have issues like this before?
New wiring looms from Autosparks in 200TDI 110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Heater solved, auto electrical had forgotten to plug in a wire behind the dash to give the fuse power đ